Golf/GTI VI :: Power Dips For About A Second And Then Comes In When Try To Change Gear Quickly
Sep 12, 2014
I have a problem that I can't work out. The problem occurs when I try to change gear quickly (say for a 1/4 mile run). between 2nd and 3rd, as soon as third engages, the power dips for about a second and then comes in. Its not like the revs drop, its just for that second it feels like the turbo is spooling up or something and the car is at best pulling like it has the low range torque of a Honda!
It doesn't happen always, but i would say at least 50% of the time. I have been driving stick for 15 years and have had 3 gti's but none of them have done this. I have tried to change gears at different rpm and experimented with keeping revs up and different release points for the clutch but it doesn't seem to make a difference. my friend also tried it in my gti and he felt the same thing.
Is it a gti thing? maybe the turbo spooling up? I have noticed it since stock clutch and apr stage 1, I honestly thought the clutch would fix it but it hasn't. I have a mk6 gti 2012, apr stage 2 (carbonio intake) with dxd stage 2 daily clutch, short shifter and BB downpipe. Working towards k04 but not there yet!
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I am coming from a 2001 Acura CL-S which is a 5 speed automatic, and that car wouldnt' change gears that quickly. I understand cars today change gears frequently to be in the best gear for fuel efficiency?
But I feel like my ES350 changes gears so much, even at the slightest speed change. Is this normal -perhaps it's because I haven't driven a new car since my 2001, 12 years ago! Even the slightest press on the pedal will downshift the car and into the lower gear, even on ECO setting. On my Acura, pressing lightly on the accel pedal didn't result in a lower gear, as I know the engine had more than enough torque.
I also love reliability, and this makes me think the transmission would have a shorter life span with all the shifting. I still haven't asked my dealer about how often to do tranny fluid changes (which I know is a different thread altogether about discussions about "lifetime" fluid).
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Whenever i start my car and begin to drive, i get a loud flutter/Rattle when i change gear above 2500 rpm. It occurs when i give it about 50% or more throttle. is this normal? or does it have anything to do with cold start? I have a tampa mod resonator on the car.
I have a video to show sort of what it sounds like, but this is with giving it about 30% throttle, not 50%. it gets much louder, and sounds a lot worse when i give it more gas. Listen at 1:07.
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I have a 2001 2.7 v6 automatic it has started to struggle up hill to change gear.... and has no power ... it Rev's over 4000 before it changes out of second but fine sometimes after that .. i have had a terra clean done and no fault show on any diagnostic thing.
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I get weird squeaking noises coming from the front of the car. It happens when the front dips during braking at a stop. Happens when I turn. Happens when I go over bumps. What it could be? Car has 150,000 miles and suspension is stock.
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I've had a clinking sound at the front of my car when driving over sharp bumps like seams or cracks ever since about 6k miles. I only notice it with the windows down. I used to think that it was the coils on my Nuespeed sport springs hitting each other, but after I got coilovers and the noise didn't change I was sure that it wasn't the springs. When talking to my mechanic on the phone he suggested that I see if the problem goes away if I apply the brakes when driving over something that causes the noise, and sure enough the noise isn't there when braking.
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I spent a lot of time on the 7.3 forum, but I'm still new to the 6.0, so bear with me.
I've noticed that when I start my truck the battery voltage (as shown on SCT Livewire TS) often dips down to 11 or even 10.5 volts. The batteries are almost new, dated March 2016. When cruising down the highway voltage is about 12.7-13, sometimes a little higher. The alternator is also less than a year old
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I am thinking about changing the Gear Ratio in my 2014 Platinum F350.
History: I traded in my 2011 F350 DRW with 17" wheels and 3:73 gears to get my 2014 F350 SRW 20" Wheels with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 15,000 boat and trailer. The Drw pulled the boat and trailer with no issues. I sold my Northern Lite Truck Camper. I thought I didn't need the Drw any more. First time I hooked up to the boat I felt the difference in between the trucks in the acceleration and fuel economy. Old truck would get 11.5 MPG new truck gets barely 9 MPG going down hill with a tailwind. Over all the new truck is a little slower off the line but when hooked up to the boat it is a dog with the 20" tires.
So the question to you all is; gear change to 4.10? Swapping to this ratio with 20" tires will produce the similar RPM's and possible improve the fuel economy. I get around 18 empty now on trips empty. Around 16 commuting 25 miles to work.
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I was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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I have a 4 door 1.8t AWW
Like I said in the title I keep getting the P0172 and can't seem to shake it no matter what I do. I believe the car is in soft limp mode as I can't boost above 5 psi. I'm also consuming oil fairly quickly (atlas 2 quarts in a span of 2-3 months), no smoke out back though. I did find that the whole PCV system underneath the plenum was wet, but nothing else was? Checked the PCV valve and it seemed operational and didn't stay open. Check PCV system for cracks and was unable to see any which added to the confusion.
Thing's I've done to try and fix problem:
-replaced breather hose because of crack
-went through all the vacuum lines and replaced where needed
-have two n75j's that I'm unsure if they work or not (is n75j the stock valve for the AWW?)
-cleaned the maf
-replaced valve cover gasket
-changed plugs
-replaced dv with splitter
Other things for diagnose:
-little wet around 2 of the injectors on top of the plenum (old o rings?)
-when running splitter full atmospheric I can hit 10psi but with it closed off can't get past 5psi
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So with the car cold or hot . I turn the ac on and the motor rpm drops quickly and compressor kicks on . Can confirm this with someone watching with hood open. Low speed on both fans not working
Of I let the car idle in the for about 15 min then both fans high speed will kick on and run for a short time. Temp guage will always stay around 190. Car never overheats even in 95deg weather.
I tested the fans by jumping the 3 pin connector off the radiator and according to that test it's just the resistors on the low speed. So I ordered the nime control module.
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Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
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Whenever P0411 triggers for me, it is very late into driving (i.e. like 30 minutes into the freeway type of situation) where the engine has already hit optimal temperature. I've gone 1000 miles after reset before it triggers. Sometimes 200 or so miles, but it never triggers quickly after a reset. I'm unsure if it matters, but the VR6 does have a cold air intake (and I do have the breather hose connected & maf correctly connected). I'm pointing it out because p0411 became an issue about 500 miles after I had installed the cold air intake.
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I have a 2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0, I was driving and the temperature gauge starting raising pretty quickly. I stopped, checked the coolant and oil, both were at normal levels. The car cooled down pretty quickly, and I drove a little and it raised again. The heat is coming out cold despite the hot temperature. Overheating, normal coolant levels, no heat.
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My 2003 GTI 24V VR6 is leaking coolant pretty quickly from the passenger side of the engine compartment. I have a new water pump in hand. If I'm replacing the water pump, would it be smart to go ahead and order a thermostat and metal crack-pipe to replace at the same time that I'm having the water pump installed? I'd hate to get the water pump installed, and find out that the leak is at the crack pipe.
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My 2006 6.0 has recently started to heat up very quickly after i start it, after about 10 minutes of highway driving my ECT and EOT warnings are going off on my Edge CS programmer and reading 220F (both) and higher. My A/C also only blows out cold air if I am driving around, at an idle it just blows out warm air at me. Average summer temps at home of ~25C. What could be causing this?
2006 F250 6.0
165,000 km
Egr delete
Aftermarket Headgaskets and studs
Edge CS programmer
K&N Cold Air Intake
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Truck ran good, but for the past month every once in awhile it would just stall quick, no rumbling, no smoke, like someone just turned off the ignition, if you turn the key it would immediately fire right back up. Well today it would not start back up. Pulled the IPR plug, no good. FICM replaced abt. a month ago. Checked with Scan Gauge, oil pressure abt. 925 while cranking dropped to abt. 780 after extended crank. And no codes. I do notice when turning key on I hear less clicking/noises going on. All dash lights come on and turn off as usual. Tach doesn't move.
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My brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
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My 2003 6.0 has a coolant leak. It leaks slowly while not running and more quickly while running. I have about an 8 mile drive to work every day, I can make it there and back without having to add coolant but I'm cutting it pretty close by the time I get home. In short I go from the max fill line to bone dry in about 24 hours.
With the truck running I can see water getting slung around all over the front of the engine but the majority of it seems to be coming from around the two larger pulleys in the middle. I've read that this can either be the crankshaft seal or the water pump, any way to know for sure? Any other possibilities?
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My car is a 2011 gti 2 door 6mt. I have a catless 3" downpipe, afe intake, nitto neogens, bsh inserts, and apr stage 2 tune. Last night at the track my first run was 15.4 @ 95 mph with a clean launch. 95 degrees at 1160 ft 80% humidity. My best run was 14.7 @99 mph 85 degrees out. It seems like I should be getting much better times. My 60 ft was around 2.5. I was launching around 3k feathering the clutch with the traction off. It was hard to get the car to hook up but the 14.7 run felt solid on take off.
The Nitto Neo Gens definitely hooked better cold. When i shifted into 3rd the car felt like it did not have power for a second then it put me back in the seat. It did the same thing in 4th no power for a moment the bam. Its not like the barely noticeable delay from the electronic throttle/lag it was very noticeable. I dont know whats going on with the car. It may have just been the track prep/heat. I raced a g8 with an intake and exhaust and he only ran a 14.4 with a clean run.
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