Golf/GTI VI :: P2293 Code - Is The Pump On Its Way Of Going Out
May 24, 2015
So here's the backstory, Couple of months ago I Cold started my Car. During the fast idle the car started to misfire, but no flashing check engine light. then after the cycle, it smoothed out and was fine. Now it's happened maybe 3 or 4 times since then. So Today it hasn't done it but I decided to Scan it and check the OBD codes.
As I sit right now I'm APR Stage 2, I'm in the process of going K04, just waiting on the turbo to come in. Now the too high of fuel pressure one I've had for a while. I was told it was a software thing nothing to worry about. But the P2293 Code has me stumped. I've had the HPFP Fail at 16k miles so I know what the symptoms are. I also replaced the follower at the same time when I did the HPFP. Now the thing that has me stumped is, The car is running fine. No issues what so ever. No problems with fuel cuts or anything. Is it possible that the Pump is going on its way out? Or am I just paranoid?
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I've been having this code come up for a couple weeks now off and on. Currently I am stage 2 Giac. I have the autotech HPFP upgrade and was installed a couple months ago. Recently It threw the code and lasted for a couple days then went away. I notice that if i get on it pretty hard for a while the code will come back, im guessing due to lack of fuel. I pulled the fuel pump and checked the cam follower and it looks almost good as new still. Thought it would be the sensor but doesn't seem like it as the CEL turns off after a while of not getting on it.
View 10 Replies
Well my car is listed above it has 99 k on it now.. For the last few months the check engine light had been coming on and off.. It usually happened after I put gas so I figured it was the gas cap... Till yesterday I had it scanned at auto zone and gave me the code listed above... Don't know how to go about it.. I've searched some and found that it could be a cam sensor of some sort or a follower ( spelling) ... Is it a easy fix .. Like I said light goes off and on.. Doesn't stay on always.
View 13 Replies
My car is throwing this p2293 code which means fuel pressure regulator performance 1 had towed twice this week my mechanic replace the fuel pump in the tank but yesterday I died again with the same symptom ...
View 6 Replies
Only thing I've noticed is the idling is a little rough but the car has 88k on it so that's expected. I haven't checked the cam follower yet and know I'll probably need to change it so that's going to happen in the next week.
I had a code for P000A & P2293 for a few months that would throw a MIL and I would reset it and it would come back after a while. I finally replaced the cam sensor and I didn't see a MIlL for about 6 weeks and one day it came back. Once I scanned the car it showed P000A again. I cleared the code and everything seemed fine until yesterday. I went to start the car and the car wouldn't turn over.
I pulled the key out and tried it again and it worked. More and more I think about it, the car doesn't turn over smoothly over the past few months but maybe I'm just looking for things. I ended up scanning it last night and it had a code for P2293 & P0011. I cleared them both but what could be causing all this and cannot afford to bring the car in to the mechanic. It's out of warranty and I'm broke and X-Mas is around the corner.
2006 Passat 2.0T
View 2 Replies
Had check engine light come on as the car stalled. Brought the 09 passat to vw dealer and was told the engine code showed fuel pump defect. For 1,000.00$ they changed the fuel pump and did a fuel system cleaning. Also had an oil change done.
Drove away less then 10miles, and the same thing happened. Bringing it back tomorrow, but how to handle the situation? Already contacted AMEX regarding the situation to potentially open a dispute charge claim.
If the MIL indicator is on, does it give a direct code to the problem? I suggested it could be the manifold issue, but they said that's not it.
View 11 Replies
I picked up a 2003 that had a bad AUX battery and P3130 code. Just FYI, aside from the battery it drives fine. Kicks the Warning light after about 15 miles but since the battery was bad it kept getting reset. Replaced the battery with a nice optima conversion.
Took out the inverter coolant pump, tested the circuit (good), tested the pump (bad). Replaced with a new one from dealer. Set up the bleeder tubes and massaged the lines till the new pump stopped SCREAMING at me. Added probably 2 qts of TLLC total. Bleeder tubes never had enough pressure to push fluid back up to reservoir but got solid 2 inches of fluid with no bubbles. Topped of the coolant. Went for a drive around the block, made it halfway (about 28mph) before the light kicked in and the motor seemed to bog down. Limped back home and read the 3125 Code. Code reader does not give me sub codes.
2003 Prius 154K miles on ODO.
View 3 Replies
While driving home last night the Red Triangle, CEL and the Hybrid Warning lamp, (on the MFD) all lit up. The cruise control also shut down. We stopped and checked the manual to identify what the symbols meant. We were approximately 90 miles from home, drizzling rain and it was about 60 degrees.
View 18 Replies
It showed up yesterday and I looked it up that it's the Secondary Air Injection System Switching valve stuck open. I cleared the code but this morning I heard the pump vacuum noise, which I have never heard before but the code didn't come back on. [URL] .....
View 4 Replies
I bought my 2001 Grand Prix with a 3.8 liter (non supercharged) earlier this year. Within the first month, the check engine light came on with a P0410 code. Took it to the shop here at the auction that I work at to get repaired. He ran the diagnostics on it and found that the air pump wasn't working. He pulled it out and it was full of water, due to the air inlet being so low. So, he replaced the air pump and re routed the air inlet so that it was higher up into the engine compartment. That same night, the light came back on, so I brought it back in the next day. The relay failed and popped the fuse. Replaced both, and the light was off for a full day.
Got ready to take it in for its emissions test today, and the light came back on again. The air pump is not working, again. Turns out that the previous owner had replaced the air pump twice (once with aftermarket, and once with an OEM unit) because of the water build up and freezing the first time. I am not aware of any GM service bulletins, but there has to be something that is taking out these pumps. The only things not replaced on the secondary air system is the lower check valve and solenoid. So, what could be causing the pumps to fail prematurely?
View 4 Replies
Got a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
View 3 Replies
2002 Prius with 94K gave me today P3130, after I tested the Inverter Water Pump I found out that it bad but until I go to the dealer in order to buy the part $147 he was closed. the question is can I drive with the car like this bac home (65 miles) and if I turn on the A/C the Engine will work all the time right? And also after replacing the Inverter Water Pump how can i tell if the problem solved?
View 14 Replies
On my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
View 9 Replies
I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2001 Toyota Prius. The inverter cooling pump was dead and I had the P3130 fault code. I replaced the pump and the refilled the fluid. After more than 4 or 5 times bleeding the system, now the pump sounds funny. It sounds like a water fall and look like it has too much air!!!! I can’t see any turbulence in the reservoir tank either.
There are 2 bleeding valves on the front side of the Inverter. Which one should be used to for bleeding the system? Both?
Does the system have any thermostat that could cause problem? Does it use the same radiator as the main one? What could cause having NO turbulence? I think the new pump will be dead too if it can’t make the turbulence.
View 5 Replies
I lost boost, went from being chipped at 16psi to 7-8 with a check engine code and a high pitch noise. Now is the secondary air pump connected to the turbo in any way. It just happened and I'm working on getting the code read. Just curious if my pump is just bad, what im figuring.
View 1 Replies
I have 2008 LS460 done 30,000 miles since last few days. I have CEL and when i hooked it to a reader the code came out P1235 "High pressure fuel pump out of range" any one had this problem before!
View 3 Replies
It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
View 7 Replies
My truck wouldn't start so i replaced the fuel filter and it ran fine for a week than wouldn't start again. Took it to a mech, who ran all the computer codes and scans on it and came up with a lift pump pressure problem. Replaced the pump and it ran for 4 days, now it doesn't start again. They said the injection pump was fine.
View 2 Replies
I had my hybrid water pump replaced (free, under recall) about a month ago. Now the check engine light comes on intermittently, and it's with error code 1121 (Coolant flow control valve sensor stuck). I've seen other people on this forum hypothesize that the work could cause this error (if not bled properly, leaving air in the system). But my dealer said the work had nothing to do with this error and I need to replace the control valve. How to suggest to my dealer that it could, in fact, be due to their work and that I think they should fix it for free?
View 15 Replies
