2012 Golf GTI, bone stock, 18k miles. The issue is pretty straightforward. It takes longer to crank than I feel it should, perhaps 5-6 seconds, sometimes the car is cold, sometimes warm. Sometimes it cranks right up with no issue. A VCDS scan is clean. This is Atlanta weather too, so the temps are pretty mild.
View 6 RepliesWhen I crank the engine when it's cold, it cranks fine. Case in point: first thing in the morning and in the afternoon when I'm leaving the office to come home. However, if I crank the engine when it's already warm it takes significantly longer to turn over. It really doesn't feel like it wants to crank at all and pumping the gas pedal doesn't work with things even though its second nature from my old carburetor days. The fact that it only acts up when the engine is warm befuddles me! I remember reading something like this awhile ago and the culprit was a clogged "box that dissipates gases". It's a 2003 Passat with the 1.8 turbo. The car has been maintained according to the service schedule and runs like a champ with 100,349 on the odometer.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
I just got an 03 6.0 and a few days ago it developed a rough idle, it takes a little longer to crank and idles fine for 30 seconds to a minute then the rough idle kicks in also I noticed when I drive it the low rpm range is a little choppy and when I come to a stop it goes a little below idle then resumes the rough idle issue. I had it die on the road a day prior to this after it lost complete power at a red light, it started to idle low so I tried to counteract with a little throttle and with the throttle all the way it did nothing, a few minutes it died on the road and took a few minutes to start back up I did a set of filters and it hasn't done it again but I still have the rough idle, I checked the icp sensor and wiring no oil so I cleaned it up a bit and it runs a little smoother.
View 2 RepliesMy car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
View 2 RepliesAlright 2009 Corolla S 1.8L. 80k miles, 5 years old.
I just decided to start doing the service myself on my gf's Corolla. Switched to Mobil 1 0w20. Did oil and filter. Also, the battery had a lot of corrosion on the positive terminal so my dad unexpectedly poured a little coke on it and wiped it down.
That was two weeks ago. The car has started to take longer and longer to start. Like the battery is going dead. Did the switch to synthetic or coke on battery terminal make any changes to starting or is it just a really big coincidence. Oil level still good.
I got the 2013 sonata gls, 5700 kms.
I live in southern Ontario, in Canada and the weather is starting to drop here in the mornings and nights.
The mornings are not 0-3 degrees Celsius and at night a little bit colder.
I have notice that when I start my car in the morning it seems like the engine takes a little big longer to start. It takes no longer than 2 seconds to actually start, it just sounds like its struggling a bit more.
I notice once i drive the car for a bit, park and then start the car again it seems like it fires up quicker and without ease.
Is this due to the drop in weather? or something else at play here.
Also it seems like in the mornings when the car has been sitting for like 9 hours, after it starts the engine sounds louder than usual.
Occasionally my 2003 f150 takes longer to start than Id like. Lets say 2-3 seconds before it fires. It turns over plenty fast so Its not a battery crapping out. Runs great once it lights. I replaced the spark plugs but that didn't change it. Once again this just happens every now and then. 120k on the clock. Should I suspect a fuel pump showing its age? Oh, I should also note I changed the fuel filter a few months back.
View 6 RepliesThe backup camera under the vw logo staying open. Mine takes at least 10 seconds to close, and if I don't wait and turn off the car, it will remain open which prevent you from opening the hatch. It's become extremely annoying, especially Christmas shopping in the rain!!
View 11 RepliesI have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2L gas motor, 50k miles.
Recently, I've noticed it takes longer to start. The motor will crank at regular speed but will take longer to start. It's always taken longer than a single rotation from day one but lately it's gotten really bad.
Even more recently, I hear a ticking noise under load, or even sometimes at idle. It sounds like an exhaust leak or worn lifter noise. Could these somehow be connected? What this could be?
It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
View 4 RepliesDealing with mother in law's 01 Elantra GT. 175k miles, unknown history for the most part except for recent maintenance.
Having some issues now. The car will not start..the battery is fine and that is ruled out. The car will intermittently not crank...it could be days, but luckily I have the car today and the situation is currently happening. All my dash lights and electricals work fine.
It is an automatic car.
Brake lights work when pressing the pedal. I looked at the switch near the pedal and it appears to function properly but see below.
When I turn the key, I can hear noise from the cruise control module underneath the hood, but nothing else. No clicking, no crank. Dash lights don't change except the clock fades out, but turns back on when key is off the start position.
I thought maybe something with shifter. In the Run key position, I can sometimes shift it out of park and into another gear...but sometimes not. It seems that changing how I press the brake pedal affects whether I can get it out of park.
The car was perfectly fine earlier today and that is why this is so strange. Sometimes it would leave her stranded, sometimes it works fine.
When I do shift out of gear, the dashboard reflects the proper gear on the digital display.
Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
View 14 RepliesMy grand voyager 1997 plymouth 3.3 looses fuel pressure overnight... It won't start until I crank it for 5 min or longer... I checked with fuel gauge tester, and while it runs it reads 50lbs, after hours it drops to 0 ... Injectors don't leak ... What's up with this van?
View 3 RepliesI went to check out a TDI. Got there and it had to be jumped (45F) The glow plug harness was bad. but even after we got it started and drove it for several miles to get it to operating temp, it was still difficult to start after shutting it off. Shouldn't it start up easily after being warmed up even if the glow plug harness was bad?
View 10 RepliesMy jetta failed to start for me at a local grocery store. It would crank super slow once or twice then stop. Tried push starting it to no avail. Got it towed home, and thought to try a new battery, figuring that the alternator might be bad. Got a new battery yesterday (still under warranty), threw it in the car, and gave it a shot. It turned over slow 4-5 times then stopped.
I have been having the ever-annoying shifter rod rattle for a while, and it recently got much more obnoxious. I am beginning to think that maybe the more obnoxiousness was my timing chain though. It sounded like marbles, but the noise sounded like it was coming from the intake, not the side of the motor. Also, not sure if this matters but the battery terminals got super hot after I tried to start it last. What to check? Electrical short? Timing off? Something from the shifter rod fell into the motor? Some other strange issue?
I just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
View 14 RepliesBeen driving my 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 with no problems then started noticing it lacking power so I changed fuel filter and air filter. After a week goes by I was at work and I was leaving to come home so I started truck to let warm up and it cranked longer than normal but started. Let run about 10 minutes idle nicely when I punched it it bogged down and had no power never died. I idled over into parking lot and power came so I took off again loss all power again, still never died. Got it right back to my work sat there a bit and tried again this time I took it easy and was able to get my truck home 30 so miles.
When I got home I ran codes p1211 came up for the icp sensor I changed it did not change anything still had same problem. This was a Saturday afternoon to evening issue. So sunday I played around with it just checking out info online and test driving it seem to run ok but still lacking power. Let it sit till Monday I went out to start it had to cycle key 3 time before it started idle nicely then died would not restart changed ipr valve nothing changed cam sensor nothing changed some how 10 quarts low in oil just changed dec. 30th don't know ? Now will start if I pump throttle and has all its power back?
I recently bought the car in to have the transmission fluid and spark plugs changed; it was in the garage for almost 2 weeks as I wasn't able to go in and pick it up. It was a local but trusted garage, not a dealer. Since I've had it back, when I power up the car, the ICE takes a noticeably longer time to switch on. It used to come on before I'd put it into gear, not it doesn't come on until I get into P or R, or at least just before sometimes. I suspect is has something to do with the 12v battery, which I've had no noticeable problems with yet.
View 19 RepliesIm using my rear heat for the first time since I purchased my new GX premium, it seems that the rear heat takes forever to finally get warm and its really never hot even at the highest temp. I think overall I find that the gx takes awhile to start pumping out hot air compared to my RX, but I don't think its normal for the front to be blowing hot and the rear to still be cold. I already took it Lexus and they said it was all working fine.
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