Golf/GTI VI :: Noticed White Sludge Under Oil Cap
Dec 3, 2013
i have a 2007 gti and this is my first winter with the car and i live in a pretty cold climate and i've noticed quite a bit of white sludge under my oil cap from moisture and oil and i was wondering if there is anything i can do about this and i don't have a catch can and its not coolant i've noticed this happening since about 3 months now (since it went below zero) and my coolant level hasn't moved at all.
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Yesterday it was the coldest day my car has ever experienced at -27*C or -16F. I only live about 10 minutes from work in stop and go traffic so the car barely reached operating temp as I was arriving to work.
After about 10 hours, I went outside at the end of the day, the temps had warmed slightly and I started the car and let it idle for about 1 minute before driving off. After about 45 seconds I got a series of what seemed to be misfires. The EPC light flashed but eventually turned off, and where the odometer normally appears there was an exclamation point next to a symbol that looked like cruise had been activated. A message appeared in the MFD to the effect of "malfunction - bring car for service"
I reved the car slightly a few times-all seemed good- and left. All was good. Stopped the car a few blocks after and restarted and the warning symbol was gone and all was back to normal.
Today has been warmer and there have been no issues with it.
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My car was just in the shop for the 30K service and the tech noticed quite a bit of oil leaking from the gasket between the CTS pcv system and the engine. He said that because the catch can lacks the ability to release the pressure coming from the engine, it started to eat at the gasket and it now leaks... he recommended that I take the catch can off. I thought the system vented pressure into the intake...
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I washed the R this past weekend and noticed that hey are covering my car from front to back, and even on the glass. I am looking to perform this work myself.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta wagon, 2.0l bev engine, 5 spd. I just recently replaced both oxygen sensors due to codes that popped up, but have noticed recently the gas mileage and performance have decreased. Now I get the code 16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold P0420. The car passed smogged and all the readiness codes passed. One major noticeable different, is when I apply the gas, it is not accerlating like it should.
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Dealership put some dye in the oil last week and they're checking it today but they said it seems like it's getting flung around when it hits the axles. Waiting on a loaner because they want to hold it and let it run to see what happens. Whenever I look under it in my garage I see oil buildup on the oil pans passenger side and see a drop about the size of a dime.
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I know it's stupid but rattles and vibrations in an otherwise quiet car drive me absolutely crazy.
So, driving I have noticed this slight non-metallic vibration type noise. It seemed to come and go. So I emptied the car thinking it might be something I was carrying around. No such luck. Turned off the climate control, still there. I had the better half drive while I searched. I could never really see anything but thought it sounded like it might be either in the dash or around the floor area. Totally frustrated I unbuckle my seatbelt and crawl into the passenger floor head first. Nothing on the passenger side. I glance over to the Driver side footwell and notice the slightest vibration from a panel that covers the steering shaft as it goes through the firewall right behind the pedals. Aha! A plastic panel being held in place by 2 plastic type screws that are both loose. i tighten them down with a straight screw driver when I get home and silence! The rattle goes away. You might look at yours as well. I think this might apply to all Mk5 cars. Finding/Fixing a rattle like this for me is like finding money.
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As I was loading a bag into the back of my GTI, I noticed water running down the drivers side. It seems to be coming out of where the driver's side back seat belt holder is. It's leaking down into the little compartment as well. Don't know the extent of the damage yet as I haven't had any time to look, The interior ceiling of the car is dry. Leaking into the side compartment as well...
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Well my car is crapping out lately,
I put a new steering rack in my mk4 1.8t jetta about a week before I parked it for winter. I went out to the garage yesterday and noticed a pool of PS fluid on the ground, I located one very small leak from the bottom banjo bolt on the rack (needs new crush washers, Was in a rush and didn't have time to pick new ones up :bang head: ).
But the part that confuses me is there is a puddle on/under the passenger side subframe, the rack boot appears to be dry, and I don't believe the new rack is faulty, they are supposed to be all tested and approved before reaching the buyer. and when I turn the car on I can't see a leak anywhere even with the wheel off and a decent view of the rack.
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When I drive my 1.8T from cold the red oil warning and stop light flashes for a 5 to ten seconds it then goes off and all appears fine.Whist it is flashing there are no tappity noises and the engine sounds sweet. If I let the engine run for 5 mins before pulling away I have no problem
.
Once warm it seems to be ok uless I drive hard on the motorway - then it comes on as I decelerate. Once again, everything sounds normal.I've always had services and oil changes on time. I had the engine flushed this week, but it has made no improvement.
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I went to check my oil this morning even thought its only been roughly 2000 miles since the last change/filter(Napa Gold and Mobil One 0w40). I noticed that the dipstick had just a tad of yellowish snot stuff on it. I know it mean water in the oil but I cleaned it off and recheck, put a hair more in and it was all clean no more snotty yellow gunk.
My question is because it is cold and my dad moves it almost every morning before work could it be condensation? I know with my 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe with roughly 153,000 miles used to get the same yellow snot stuff in the oil fill neck but never on the dipstick. The passats oil filler cap/neck were both free of any snotty stuff.
If its still like this tomorrow I'm taking it to the dealer. Also there's still coolant and I couldn't be sure if there was any less as if it was a leaky head gasket but the rest of the oil is clean and not milkshake like.
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We bought my wife's wagon with about 24k miles on it. It runs like a champ still (3k later). She has a client who has the exact same car but with 60k miles and the engine needs to be replaced. Something about sludge in the engine.
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My 2003 passat 1.8T has been in and out of the shop for the past few months all for the same prob oil sludge was building up in the engine the first time around tried to avoid pulling the oil pan and just ran some flush to clean it out needless to say that didn't work so i had to have my mech pull the oil pan and clean up the mess...... even though this is a known issue that vw is well aware of the refuse to fix the prob unless u have all of your oil change receipts which I do not have because i have my stepfather change my oil I now know that I need to run full synthetic in it......
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My 2003 camry had black oil when I bought the car. I flushed the engine with motor flush two times. Very dark oil came out both times. But when I did third time oil was clear.
I do not have any oil pan or valve cover leak. Do I need to drop the oil pan to clean the gunk if there any?Do I have to clean the oil pick up also?
If the oil is dirty and black does it mean gunk built up in oil pan and oil pick up strainer?
I peeped through the valve cover but I did not see any gunk in the cylinder head.
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My wife has a 2003 Camry LE with the 3mz-fe V6. First, from what I have seen, these engines appeared in 2004 models, but that's what's in it. Anyway, she doesn't take care of her car and the other night the check engine and oil indicators came on. Having been through this with a VW Passat (known sludge engine) myself, I immediately suspected a sludge issue. The next day, I had a mechanic come over and check it. He pulled one of the valve covers and sure enough, there was sludge everywhere, some of the oil journals completely occluded.
So, the question is what to do? As I said, I've been through this myself. When it first happened, I had to have main bearings replaced and they flushed the motor well enough to get normal oil pressure. It wasn't 3 months before the same thing happened. They flushed it again enough to get the oil pressure back to normal and I got rid of it that weekend. I know flushing the Camry could solve the problem, but could just as easily push sludge into other parts of the engine and give me a nice deja-vu. The other options are to have the motor rebuilt or buy a used motor. The car has 80K on it so I'm thinking a remanufactured engine.
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i have a 2004 passat 1.8t just hit 110k miles on it and a warning light that said stop engine oil pressure service manual came on and shortly after the engine died. it like putted like i ran out of gas. the engine cranks but doesnt turn over. i had it towed to a place and they said its the timing belt. another mechanic said that the engine could be blown. i researched the warning light and found a class action law suit against vw for engine sludge problems.
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I recently had a new engine and radiator installed in my 1993 toyota pickup. I checked the coolant and oil every day since the install, then drove it 250 miles or so without checking the coolant, and found that all the coolant was gone from the reserve tank, and there was a sludge at the bottom. I don't see any leaks, and the thermometer indicator was normal.
I don't understand where the coolant could have gone, given that it's a totally new motor and new radiator, new hoses. I'm worried about the competence of my mechanic, not noticing a dirty coolant reservoir and maybe messing something else up.
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I need to decide what to do with my transmission. I just acquired a 2007 F150 Supercrew 2WD 4.6L truck with 184k miles. While in Drive the automatic transmission (4R75E) runs ok thru 2nd gear and then; if O/D is on it will rev without engaging and if O/D is off it will just stay in 2nd gear.
I was hoping the problem was a broken retainer clip, as are so many others. So I removed the pan, and the valve body. All of the retainer clips seem to be fine, but, there is a lot of metal sludge on the magnet of the pan. See pic.
Should I buy a complete rebuild kit and take the tranny out of the truck? Is it just a problem with the valve body? I need to get the truck going so I can get to work. I am uneducated in the transmission department.
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When checking the oil (dipstick) the other day, I smelled a "different" smell . . . so I turned the oil cap and saw GREEN oil on the bottom of the cap. I've used (use) ULSD/B5 in this TDI .
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While driving my recently purchased minivan (a 1999 Pontiac Montana) for about 40 miles, I noticed the temperature gauge was reading high when I wasn't moving very fast, though short of what appears to be the overheating zone. Opening up the radiator revealed no coolant that I could see, but plenty of brown sludge. Looking under the oil cap revealed more brown pudding-type stuff (that wasn't there when I did an oil change when I first got it).
The lack of coolant makes me nervous that the engine might have overheating without the temperature gauge reading it properly. Is that possible? The heater was working, which searches seem to suggest means there must have been some in there.
I figure that either the intake or head gasket must be bad, so I'm nervously setting out to replace both using a gasket set like this: [URL] .....
What I'm more worried about though, is clearing the cooling system out of all the gunk. It sounds like oxalic acid and washing soda and back flushing might work? But I'm anticipating a large quantity of sludge, oily, rusty coolant water. How am I going to dispose of it all?
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Recently replaced the transaxle fluid on my 2007 Prius with 47,000 miles. This was the first time the transaxle fluid has been changed in the vehicle. After removing the drain plug I noticed a substantial amount of a thick, grease type substance on the bottom of the plug. When they have change the transaxle fluid on their vehicles? I found minimal metal shavings on the plug, but was concerned on the thick sludge/grease substance on the bottom of the plug. The ATF fluid that I drained was very dark. Definitely not close to the red color of new ATF WS fluid.
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