Golf/GTI VI :: Navigation Shuts Off Every 25 Minutes?
Aug 18, 2011
Just recently did the RCD 310 to RNS 315 swap. Everything was fine while I waited for the aftermarket navigation antenna...
Got the antenna in last week, installed it and the navigation works like a charm. Only issue now is when I drive for 20-25 minutes the head unit will shut off and start back up. It does it when I use navigation, ipod or even radio. Do you need and VCDS coding?
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I bought a new 2000 740il and the navigation system went black recently and the radio shuts off after 2 min. and you have to double click the on off to get the radio back on, then it shuts off again after 2 min. The navigation screen and system does not work and I did not disconnect the battery, lose power or get a jump, as many first ask. The dealer has no solution but to sell me a new car or a new system.
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The car is about a week old. Today, the NAV system (ML version), re-started a few times and then shut completely off. Re-starting the car does not work. Got a totally "off" screen and no sound. 2014 350?
Is there some way to reset it or turn it back on? I can't imagine that a brand new Lexus would have this sort of issue.
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My Ac comes on normally and will work for about 30 mins, then it just shuts off and blows warm air. If I shut the motor off and restart it, it will work again. I heard it could be the Clutch coil when it get hot will shut off. I have changed a relay also.
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Friend broke down. Car would start, but would die. Mechanic told him the cluster is bad, and the car thinks it's stolen. He said it's not the ECU.
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My girlfriend has a 2010 prius with the navigation package. We go to the drive in movies quite frequently because it's cheaper and close to us. Every 30-45 minutes the prius will automatically shut off the battery. The interior lights turn on and the sound goes off.
We are kind of getting tired of getting dirty looks when this happens. So we're wondering if there is a way to take this setting off.
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Sonata NF 2.0 ... 3 days ago, my care drove for - 4 minutes then engine shut down. Try to re-start the car but unavailable. I towed the car to workshop, they claimed high possibility is the fuel pump faulty.
Initially a check was done found fuel pump good (the technician disconnect the tube before the fuel injector assembly). They did a diagnose test found no error code registered.
Subsequently check on the fuel pump found no fuel come out before the fuel injector assembly (same as previous, disconnected before the assembly). Fuel pump was replaced. The engine can start running but will shut down after a while.
What is the possible cause and how to identify the root cause.
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I have had a problem with my 2009 Chevy Aveo since I purchased it last October 2010. Every once in a while the engine shuts off, not while I'm stopped, but usually after it's been running for 2-3 minutes. It doesn't happen more when it's cold or hot, and not necessarily in the morning or after it's been off for a long time.
It happens only once every few months, but when it does happen it's downright dangerous. Today I was pulling into traffic turning right at a red light and it shut down. I was up to about 15 miles an hour still in the turn, and it feels just like the power steering stopped working. Because it's happened before I knew what to do. If I throw it in to park and turn the key, the engine starts fine and it has never happened twice. In 15 months of owning the car it's probably happened 8 times.
I've brought it into the dealership 4-5 times and they've never been able to replicate the issue. They replaced the spark plugs etc. but it always happened again a few months later. When I went in recently they told me it was the battery and it wasn't covered under my warranty.
They also say because I didn't mention it last time I went in, it must be a new problem. I just didn't mention it because it happens rarely, and they can't find what's wrong, I don't want to seem like a problem customer.
My clock is resetting now and it's a different time every time I start the car so the battery may be an issue... but the engine has never had any trouble starting, not even a hesitation, and the radio stations haven't ever reset.
Can the battery cause a running car to shut off completely, and if so does that mean it had a bad battery when I bought it there used? I can't afford a new battery right now (well as long as it is still starting fine) and frankly I don't believe that's the problem.
Is this a computer issue in the car?
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So I wanted to play with the nav system (specifically figure out how to make it find POI along my route... why it can't tell me the compass direction along with the distance to the 17 different McDonalds is beyond me) and when I turned the car on in accessory mode (not depressing the pedal) it shut off after two mins. I tried both "levels" of accessory mode and the behavior was the same. The car was plugged in and actively charging. What am I doing wrong?
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my daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
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My 1993 Mazda B2600i starts up in the morning just fine. It runs for about 10 minutes and abruptly shuts off. I can crank it at full speed, (Good Battery), and it may attempt to start a few times and then it just cranks with no attempt to fire up. It just turns until the next day morning. Then it is the same thing all over again. I disconnected the fuel line from the out let of the fuel filter, leading to the fuel injectors and was able to fill a 2.5 cup glass jar in about 20 to 30 seconds.
I checked the ignition coil and there was spark there. Then I checked for spark at the #1 and #2 cylinders and detected the spark there as well. When the truck runs in the morning, for the 10 minutes that it runs, it seems to be very smooth in its operation. No abnormalities at all until it shuts off. I also listened to the fuel injectors with a screw driver at my ear and herd a fairly consistent clicking of the fuel injectors during the 10 minute operation of the engine.
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This is what its doing... Im starting to feel lost about whats wrong. I start it up and everything is fine. With in about 10 minutes it starts to bubble and spit out a little water then shuts its self off. And the gauge on the dash never reads above 190. And the fans don't come on unless i turn the ac on. And the ac still blows cold. The lower hose stays cold. I just replaced the thermostat and the water pump. But it changed nothing. Im thinking maybe its clogged somewhere. Maybe in the heater core or the radiator.
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My 06 was parked about 2 months and when I first started the truck, the CEL light came on. It idles a couple of minutes and shuts off. It was running very well before it was parked. I put a code reader and the codes are P0607 and P2107.
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So I found a guy selling an OEM Part # 86100-06040 navigation for cheap. Is it as simple as plug and play for switching it out on my 2013 Non Navigation Carmy Hybrid? Does all the steering wheel controls are there?
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Okay so I was driving home tonight going about 65 mph and all of a sudden I hit the gas and didn't feel anything... I looked at my rpms and they were at zero and the traction control light was blinking until finally an error popped up and it was back on... I had a check engine light on until I turned the car on and off....
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Symptoms:
- rough start-up, car shuts down
- backfire when releasing after WOT
- OBD-II codes (see below)
Okay so these issues started to appear only 1 day after I got tuned...
Problem History:
Day 1:
- car started mildly rough
- I got an EPC light on my dash 2 minutes after moving and for 2 seconds the car sounded like an STI (the sound you hear with a misfire)
- I turned it off and on, EPC gone car started up normally
- took it straight to dealer, they checked coils and plugs and said that it's a tune issue.
- went to take it back from the dealer and that was the first time the car shutdown immediately after start-up. it started at second attempt with a quite long ignition sound and the STI-like sound briefly once again.
Day 2:
- I went to my friend and we pulled the codes from OBD-II and only got the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code only (as the dealer probably erased any other code related to my EPC light)
- we deleted the code and drove around
- every time we turn the car off and on. The car starts up mildly rough and the code comes back up
Every 2 days or so:
- the car would require 2 attempts to start but no EPC light coming up.
Day 4:
- I had a night of possibly 6 WOTs to test the cars performance, and it was performing great. didn't feel any loss in power or anything. (was friendly racing my friends modded 135i with very impressive outcomes)
- car backfires after i release the gas pedal at WOT (not with every WOT but 2 out of 6 runs it backfired)
- After the last WOT i got the EPC light. turned the car off and let her relax for 5 minutes.
- car took 2 attempts to startup. with severe roughness and shakes (as if the car is cammed V8 engine) for 5 seconds and then back to normal.
Now since the EPC light came back on i wanted to check if there is another code from the OBD-II. I was hoping that the issue will only be the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code but my fears were true and i got another very annoying code
This is last nights code pull
2 Faults Found:
14914 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
[Code] .....
Day 7:
- The car had the sever start-up roughness again
As I'm trying to find a solution for my problem here are the steps i took/will take:
- took it to the dealer for nothing.
- ordered an O2 sensor extender for the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code and i hope it's somewhat related to the start-up issue. it will arrive today or tomorrow.
- once the extender is here, I'll take it to an exhaust shop to install the extender and check for any DP/Exhaust leaks
- I will take it to a mechanic to check any leaks in all intake/air connectors and piping, any leaks in DV (I have forge recirculating DV), Boost pressure sensors (the piggy back was connected to them and one might be loose when we removed it), spark plugs and coils.
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