My 03 gti vr6 has issues... This only happens sometimes but if I am on the freeway even just at normal speed sometimes the motor loses power not electrical just the motor it will die then kinda sputter its way back to life. I may add that I have APR software installed.
View 2 RepliesOk, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
View 1 RepliesPicked up a GTI Autobahn yesterday. Was pretty hyped that my sales rep was able to get me the last car in my configuration in all of California. It had to be driven 150 miles to my dealer though so there were more miles on the odometer than I would have liked but I got such a good deal that I let it be. Drove home and all was fine. Went out later that night and while driving home it all started.
Car was just cruising at regular freeway speeds (65 - 70) and suddenly all the gauges go out and error lights galore. Strange part is the car is still working otherwise at this point. We were able to exit and park it safely. Here's a video of exactly what we were seeing: [URL] ....
After parking and shutting off the car we try to start it back up. It turns over fine but a second later it kills itself - much like it would if you shut the car off manually. Warning lights galore again and eventually an error about the braking system shows on the display. Here's a video on this part: [URL] ....
Gas tank is full. Car was not being driven hard whatsoever. And even if it was it shouldn't do this right?
Every once in awhile when I'm on the freeway, the hazard lights will flash and the doors will lock and unlock for about 3 seconds then stop.
The car is running normally other than this, except that the doors have stopped locking with the fob or the key itself. It is a 2001 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V.
Recently installed a curt trailer light. I modified the V plug in harness to work with the C.
I noticed the fan was running louder then usual. I took the right rear panel off were the HV exhaust vent it and there is no ducting from the factory.
The battery duct just goes to the back of the seat and vents out in that right corner right behind the 12V.
It makes its way up and over the right rear tire tub then what ever comes out of the rear exhaust, just vents out with momentum from down below. No duct guiding it from what I can see?
I went back and zip tied a wire that was in the path to sides were other factory wiring runs.
This seemed to fix the issue after making everything neat?
Not sure what caused it but it seems to be from wiring that was in the way? When I run the HV fan with my SG and remove the shock tower assess cover on the passenger side. I can feel hot air coming out. This might be an easy way to get more exhaust venting for anyone that wishes to do that.
Steering wheel will turn about 35 degrees left or right when one side of the street is uneven and you take your hands off the wheel ? I guess I haven't noticed it much in these 3 months because I am always in Sport mode, which stiffens the wheels as we all know, but today as i was driving in Normal, I was on a street that kind of tapered to the right on an approx. 5 degree angle and the wheel turn itself pretty dramatically. I corrected my path and it would shoot right soon as i took my hand off the wheel. Its definitely not an alignment issue because its straight like an arrow. And all tires have 33 psi cold. Then i noticed again on the freeway, i know its uneven pavement but the amount the wheel turns is pretty substantial.
Also, when you make a 90 degree turn the steering wheel doesn't really retract itself back too good, you kind of have guide it back. But putting it in Sport mode fixes all that. Besides that i love the steering, you can take turns at ridiculous speeds (not that i do ) and it eats the the turn right up, no problem, and you dont even break a sweat. The car is phenomenally well balanced. Love the GS
While driving my lights flash like a strobe light and I can see this at night. The. The car loses electrical power for 1 sec and then all okay. In the morning when I start the car I get ESP errors whilst idling, I then turn the car off and try to start it again and everything is completely dead!
When connecting jumper cables then trying again it works, the. I don't have a problem for about 3 days the. The same thing happens. Battery is brand new, had it at the dealers and errors are intermittent electrical errors but doesn't say where.
So with the car cold or hot . I turn the ac on and the motor rpm drops quickly and compressor kicks on . Can confirm this with someone watching with hood open. Low speed on both fans not working
Of I let the car idle in the for about 15 min then both fans high speed will kick on and run for a short time. Temp guage will always stay around 190. Car never overheats even in 95deg weather.
I tested the fans by jumping the 3 pin connector off the radiator and according to that test it's just the resistors on the low speed. So I ordered the nime control module.
I have a 2005 VW Golf GL, automatic tranny, 2.0L 4-cyl that has some issues during long drives in hot weather. The 1st incident occurred when I was driving on the interstate in AZ w/the outside air temp around 100 degrees. It was a flat, desolate stretch of road and I had cruise control engaged as well as the A/C turned on. Suddenly it was as if someone had let off the gas pedal, as the car began quickly slowing down from 70 or 75 to maybe 40 or so. I turned off the cruise control & tried to increase back up to highway speed manually, but there was a long lag time before the engine kicked up again. I got it back up to full speed, then moments later it would kick down again unexpectedly as if I had taken my foot off the gas even though I hadn't (and I was still not climbing any hills). The temp gauge was still normal, but I turned off the A/C just in case this was making an unnecessary drain on the engine. Still the car would behave in the same way. I took the next exit, let it rest a bit, then limped along @ a slow speed on the frontage road until the next town. Suspecting it was the MAF sensor, I had it cleaned @ a repair shop before heading back home. It ran normal for a little while during the drive back, but then the same issue.
Back in town, I replaced the whole MAF sensor, since I was told just cleaning it was a temp fix. By this time the outside air temp was cooler, & short drives to/from work went fine. However, the next time I tried taking the car on a long hot drive (from SoCal into NV), the same issue happened again! So maybe it wasn't the MAF sensor afterall (unless the replacement was faulty?). Nevertheless, I took a wet washcloth & wrapped it around the sensor, & this seemed to do the trick to get me back home again. For now I am no longer going to risk taking this car on long hot trips until I can figure out what's wrong w/it & how to fix it. I do plan to take it to a mechanic but wanted to see first if this rings any bells for people on this forum.....??
2nd, (possibly related?) problem:
Today as I was coming home, the engine stalled when I tried to take off when the light turned green @ an intersection. I limped it to the other side, pulled over, & tried starting it up again. It started right away & then ran fine. I'd been low on gas but not so low that it should be an issue. I drove the rest of the way (on a highway) to a gas station (several miles) w/o A/C, no problem. I filled it up, did the washcloth trick once again in case that was related to the problem @ all, & drove the rest of the way home just fine. Battery is relatively new (about 2 yrs.) & alternator tested fine. Did not see any corrosion on a recent check of the battery posts. Outside air temp warm today, but not that bad...only mid-80s. Temp gauge read normal.
It was raining out pretty good last night. I just got my car unitronic tuned, idk if this has anything to do with it, but just to add some info.
I was driving home, about an hour drive last night, and my car would cut the power for a second, then come back, then cut out again. Then my battery light came on and the car. I pulled over and let my car sit for a minute then finished the drive home...
It cut in and out another time or two before I got home.
Just started happening today. Dash cluster beeps, all warning lights flash, then gauges and lights go dead while under acceleration or cruising. Upon stop and return to idle the dash starts to operate properly until I take my foot off the brake pedal and start to accelerate. Tried searching and didn't find anything. What are the possible causes?
View 6 RepliesOK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
View 4 RepliesMy daughter has a 2006 Jetta and has recently experienced issues with acceleration. Merging on expressways and all of a sudden she can't seem to pick up speed and has to get over in the right lane because she is going so slow.
Been to 2 different shops, A neighborhood shop couldn't find anything wrong and neither can the Volkswagen dealer. No Error codes on the computer accept Knock Sensor. She's afraid to drive the car!
The car developed a vibration at freeway speed (65-80+) and the dealer kept saying it was tire balance, alignment, etc. After replacing tires, having them road force balance the tires and do an alignment, car still had the vibration. Contacted Lexus and the service manager drove with me and immediately felt the vibration. they double checked the balance, alignment, etc. and decided it was shocks. Car has 70,000 miles. Lexus agreed to pay for 2 of the struts. Picked up the car and it is like new. Smooth as silk. the old shocks did not have signs of being worn out, leaking or being bad. I was a bit hesitant but the Service Manager said if it didn't fix the problem, they would put the old ones back on and I wouldn't pay for anything.
I have my car serviced only at the dealer and they have stood behind the car. Lexus also. I had the control arm problem and Lexus stepped up and paid for that repair.
I have a 96 honda civic that I can't seem to figure out why its overheating. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and cleaned the system a number of times. It only seems to overheat when I'm on the free way and up to speed. When I get to my destination I see that the water overflow is full of water like to the top of the filler, so the water is being ejected out of the system. It also seems to have a lot of pressure in the system.
View 7 RepliesApprox. 8 mths ago, my Honda which I have owned since new, started this strange behavior of suddenly 'shuddering' while at a higher speed on the freeway. This shudder would take some time to get started, maybe 10-15 min. driving and I would feel the shudder first in my foot against the gas pedal, then it would be more pronounced seemingly on the left front wheel. If I took the foot off, it initially would be relieved, but if I continued to drive, it would eventually get worse to the point I needed to pull over. I took it into our trusted mechanic, and he couldn't reproduce the issue. He suggested and then did a wheel rotation/balance and the problem seemed to go away.Recently it has come back and my husband who is quite knowledgeable mechanically did some inspections, and for lack of anything else, he asked our mechanic to replace the left front drive shaft. Well, it didn't fix the problem. We are wondering what else could it be?
View 3 RepliesMy 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
After one hour of freeway speed (60-80) the car slows down to a stop and red !triangle! light comes on. After coasting to the shoulder and waiting 10 minutes, car restarts. This has happened 3 times in the last two months (very frightening, but luckily it was light traffic). Dealer says 'no codes' and that there is nothing to fix!!!! What now? I can't drive a car that could lose power at any moment. Big safety issue....
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 chevy malibu LT V6. Got it in 2009 from a dealership near where I live. During the road test I did not notice the vibration, may be because I did not drive it on a freeway. Point to be noted that it came with 2 brand new front tires. I called the dealership and they did balanced the wheels for free of charge. But the problem did not go away. This time I took my car to pepboys for wheel balancing. It is better now but I still feel the vibration on the wheel @ the speed of 60 or over. I have done wheel balancing and replaced back tires. Problem still remains. I own some other cars and they don't have this issue.
View 7 RepliesMy vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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