I was driving yesterday and this light comes on out of nowhere. It looks like it's a brake pressure or brake pad light. What exactly it means? Car seems to be running fine, but does seem to be extremely hot under the hood. More so than normal. Is it serious?
View 21 RepliesSo ive been having some problems recently with my oil pressure light going on and off while driving the car, it usually only stays on for a few seconds then goes away. I'm thinking its just the sensor going bad.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Golf 1.8T and while driving the oil pressure light turns on and the meter goes beyond the midpoint. I brought it in to a shop and they told me I need to change the oil pump and will cost $900. They told me it's because I don't frequently change oil and once the new oil is in, it caused the problem and only way to drive the car again is to replace the oil pump.
View 19 RepliesI have a mk4 Jetta 1.8t. Problem started last night. After I drive for about 15-20 minutes the oil pressure warning light comes on. It doesn't feel any different and my oil is full. Could my pump be going bad? I hear a slight tick near the bottom of the engine on the passenger side. But the car idles fine and drives fine too.
View 17 RepliesCheck tire pressure light appeared today while driving on the highway today. checked all pressure but they all read fine. what could be wrong? Is there something I am not getting here ?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
View 8 RepliesI bought my GTI used and don't know what software its running but I have some questions about the boost pressure. When I'm in Idle the car will only boost to about 7-10psi when i rev the engine in neutral, But when I'm driving it will boost all the way to about 17-20psi if I really stomp it, 15psi if I'm just giving it a bit of "go". The car takes off and goes really quick, seems like it has a lot of power so I doubt there's a boost leak but I'm wondering does the car boost differently in Idle because it knows its not moving?
View 2 RepliesI currently have a MK5 Jetta and my wife's van lease is up. I'm looking at picking up a 2001 Wagon 1.8t and giving her the Jetta. It checks out real well, the only issue is the oil pressure warning comes on after about 5-10 minutes of driving. Turn the car off and back on it goes away. He changed the oil when he got it a couple weeks ago, and didn't change the filter, he's taking it to his shop to have it re-done, and he was going to drop the pan and check the screen and pick-up and such. Has this been an issue or what may cause this?
View 2 RepliesSo while driving my mom's 99 passat, after a few miles it gives six loud beeps, the BRAKE light comes on, the oil pressure warning light starts flashing, the ABS light flashes, and the tach sits at zero.
Brakes still work, havent tested ABS. there's no noticeable change in performance. I'm assuming this is the CCM and ABS modules on their last breaths.
My mom's Jetta has had a squishy brake pedal ever since we got it a couple years ago. I figured it went down so far because the brake pads were wearing thin.
After having just replaced the pads and rotors, I flushed the fluid with the Motive power bleeder. I cycled the ABS pump with VCDS, then hooked the power bleeder back up and opened all four corners again until fluid was flowing clean and bubble-free.
Everything went well with the change, but the brake pedal never got as firm as I expected it to. Before the change, the pedal felt like it would get dangerously close to the floor. The brakes always worked, but the pedal hit about 60-70 percent of its travel before the car started slowing down. After the change, it has improved slightly, but it feels like its going about half-way before the brakes start working.
The pedal doesn't drop when you hold pressure on it like I figured it would if the master cylinder was leaking. Is this normal for a mk4 or does it sound like there's something wrong?
Car is a late 2001 2.0 Jetta Automatic with the MK60 ABS pump.
Why my 2002 Jetta 1.8t does this?
After I drive for a while I have to [slowly] open the overflow cap and relieve pressure in order to not lose coolant while the car sits. It steams for a bit when I open the cap and then the coolant rises in the reservoir then I close it.
If I don't do this then the car loses coolant but I don't see any leaks visible under the car.
I bought a 2005 RX330 a couple months ago. It now has 48,500 miles. The following happened 3 times while driving:
The ABS, Brake, and VSC lights come on solid and the Low Tire Pressure light blinks. Things go back to normal after I turn the engine off and start it again.
Dealer wants to see it first before they do anything about it. Problem is that every time it happened the dealer was closed. I live about an hour away and I’m not even sure I want to drive for one hour while these lights are on.
Reading some postings it seems like this was a known issue with the 2004 models (brake light switch). Same problem with a 2005 model?
So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
I have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
I was driving 65 on the highway to work and I went to gas it and I heard a pop and lost all power. I looked at the dash and my oil pressure light came on. Then I saw a digital warning that said "STOP!" Needless to say I was scared and swerved across 3 lanes of traffic and shut it off.
So I let it sit for a little bit and went to check the oil level (mind you I just got an oil change 4 days ago) and the oil level appeared to be fine! Checked it several times since they are a pain to read. Then I tried starting it and gigs and it turned over ran for a few secs and died! So I sat there for a little bit about to call AAA and decided to try it one more time.
PRESTO! It started and I drove it slowly to work using back roads. I've been driving it for 3 days (very little) and no issues! Just really nervous! I took it to my local performance shop where I got the oil change and they did a vagcom scan and it said I have two sensors that need to be fixed. A cam sensor and a speed sensor.
Also you should know my b2s1 02 sensor was throwing a MIL light prior to this happening but haven't had time or money to fix it so ive been putting it off.
The other day as I was coming home backing up into the garage a low oil pressure, do not rev above 4000 rpms warning popped up on the dash. Checked the oil which looked fine and then
decided to give it a scan, this is what popped up:
4 Faults Found:
008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
050217 - Implausible Data Received from Steering Column Control Module
U0429 - 000 - - Intermittent
005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 000 - - Intermittent
049154 - Powertrain Data Bus
U0002 - 000 - No Communications - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
Being that I have an upcoming 1,150 mile road trip, I decided to take it in. Fearing the worst as all cars usually experience passing their warranty 35,xxx miles I awaited to hear the pain.
Got a call later that day from the dealer saying I had a faulty intake manifold runner (P2015) as well as a faulty steering column module which created the low oil pressure light. Needless to say the car was going to be kept overnight while they waited for the parts to come in from another dealer.
Needless to say after picking up the car, I didn't pay a penny even though my car was outside of the 30,000 mile warranty. Apparently there is an additional warranty and they were covered under it.
I have a MVK5 GTI. A few weeks ago, the "oil pressure low, turn engine off" light went on after I made a hard turn. The light stayed on for about 2 seconds, then went off. So I shrugged it off. This happened a few more times (the light never stayed on for more than a couple of seconds). I finally had the oil changed and they said it was a half quart low.
The car seems to run just fine now, but I am concerned about the possibility of there being lasting damage. Is there any way to find out? I was thinking of buying out my lease, but I guess I'd rather let some other lucky person deal with it if there was any lasting damage. The lease return inspector just checked the car and made no note of an engine problem, and it has also been appraised a couple of times for trade in purposes. The trade in appraisals made no mention of a problem either.
Finally, how bad is it to be driving around a half quart low.
I've changed the pressure switch 3 times now (1.4 bar, 1.4 bar, then 1 bar which is stock), checked oil pump, checked pressure with external gauge,..everything is fine. The light won't go away......what else could it be? It's usually an issue of pressure or the switch....certainly not for me.
View 5 Repliesthe oil pressure light comes on for a year now I will pop on, on hot days, when I go into low rpm like coming off the high way or stuck in traffic. I changed the op switch and put 10w40 in with no luck.
View 3 RepliesmY 2002 Windstar abs & brake lights come on after driving a while. would it be ABS module?
View 10 RepliesLast night my tire pressure warning light came on. So this morning I checked them, and they are all above 37 psi, so might be a tad bit low, but nothing major. the manual also mentioned that light can come on if there is a sensor fault. Should I be concerned?
View 6 Replies