Golf/GTI VI :: Lost Power - CEL Flashing And Feels Like Misfiring?
Jul 23, 2013
I was driving home today and when I got on to the freeway, the car lost power and the check engine light started to flash like it was misfiring, also the EPC light came on. When I got off the freeway and let it idle, it idled rough until I turned the car off and put my APR flash back to stock. After that the car was idling fine and the check engine and EPC lights were gone. Everything seemed to be working fine until I hit about 75 mph. The car started sputtering again only as long as i tried to accelerate. Under light to moderate acceleration the car works fine up to about 70 mph. After that or under heavy acceleration the car sputters and the CE light flashes and then turns off.
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
I get some bucking under load between 1500 and 3000 rpm. This issue is more noticeable when the engine is warm. When it does this it makes a sound that to me sounds like a misfire from the exhaust, but I've never gotten a misfire code.
Sometimes i get codes p0411 and p0420 (secondary air injection and cat efficiency) but VCDS tests say my cat and o2 sensors are all good.
View 1 Replies
So last night i was driving and i made a turn onto the highway and speed up to pass this slow ass car :thumb down: and as i did i lost acceleration and my car started to rumble like when you use a high gear when u make a turn while moving that slow acceleration. And as that happened my engine light turned on and my EPC so i drove it well barely made it home. i had a friend with his VAGCOM come to see whats wrong it said cylinder 1&3 are miss firing so he took his ignition coils out of his car swapped them in my car and we drove it around and it drove fine and no fault codes. so now my issue since i have GIAC, CAI and APR full exhaust if my warranty will cover to have them put new ignition coils since i did get an extended warranty. I'm just afraid they won't.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2001 golf with a 2.0 AVH engine. I recently replaced the coil-pack and was very pleased that the engine was running better, the only problem was the mpg was still kinda low in the 24-5 range when it used to be 29.
I tried to do a compression test but I didn't prepare properly, I thought you left the coil pack plugged in and the fuel fuse. Now I have a CEL that *was* flashing saying cylinder one is misfiring though it has stopped flashing. I drove it 13 miles home and it did improve but its still running rough. Very reminiscent of when my bad coil pack was still in there, a real lack of power.
So I have to ask, what can I do from here? Have I damaged my coil pack or cylinders? Will this likely go away on its own? Is there anything I should do?
View 4 Replies
So a few days ago my engine developed a misfire, flashing MIL light etc...long story short it was cylinder 5's ignition coil. When we scanned it, we picked up a misfire on cylinder 5, and a slight misfire on cylinder 1. Replaced the coil, as well as new spark plugs, cleared the codes, and everything was peachy.
NOW, driving home today.....once again. Misfire, MIL light etc. I'm not a mechanic so I am wondering if it is common for all the coils to go around the same time, or if this is probably just cylinder 1 now going. I'm going to once again get it scanned, but before then...is there anything that could cause ignition coils to just start going bad, other than age.
View 9 Replies
I recently bought a 92 Celica gt (5s-fe). The engine feels like its misfiring and wont idle on its own.
I've done all the normal maintenance to it and the spark plugs all show normal signs of wear. I haven't verified fuel and spark yet. Check out the video below. The piece of cardboard is to keep the throttle partially open. Also, the exhaust is broken off at the flex pipe so excuse the awesome sound ...
[URL] ....
View 5 Replies
So, the latest problem with the Phaeton is EITHER 'Engine workshop fault' or 'Exhaust workshop fault'. The latter has been on for a few days, however yesterday was accompanied by a flashing coil light and the car lost almost all power.
So I took it to a diesel specialist as the VW Dealers around here are just awful, and using a Delphi system he read a single fault code which pointed to the DPF pressure. He suggested a regeneration, however there was no option to do this.
When I start the vehicle the warning lights remain off for a few seconds and the car drives normally, then on they come (either Engine or Exhaust workshop fault, always now accompanied by the dreaded flashing coil).
I took it out this evening and maintained 3000RPM or above for about 30minutes (with the odd stop for traffic lights) but this hasn't made any difference.
Is it worth just sitting on the drive with it revving at 4000 or so as with a regeneration? I understand that also involved increased diesel into the exhausts though.
View 10 Replies
I have an 05 F150. Last week engine started running rough, check light was flashing. Engine lost power and got more erratic. Had it towed to Ford dealer, Dickson TN. Dealer says "#2 injector has suck open and flooded the Cylinder and bent the C-Rod." Ok have put in another 5.4(not at Dealership) hummm new engine runs the same as the one that came out. Had A different Dealer check this engine they tell me the right bank is not making compression cam has jumped time.
View 9 Replies
I was driving fine, pulled into 7-11 to get some drinks and came out went in reverse to get outta the parking spot and put it in first and didn't go anywhere....
When i put it in first or second it feels like its in neutral and the car doesn't stall. 3 through 6 gears are fine.....
View 11 Replies
My '04 v6 wagon 100K will misfire in really damp conditions. Last fall after going through a massive puddle and today after sitting for a couple of days of warm damp foggy & rainy New England spring weather. OBDII scanner is reporting cylinder 3 as the one misfiring in the fall, today there were a ton of codes (that I didn't note).
So I made it about 2 miles from the house and had to turn back. No power, check light flashing. I had to put it in manual and keep the revs highish (3-4K). When I got home the exhaust manifold was glowing yellow, assuming one or more cylinders were passing fuel out to the exhaust and it was being burnt off in the manifold.
My question: could I have damaged any gaskets back there? This could be my imagination but I think I'm hearing a new noise that I'd normally attribute to an exhaust leak downstream of the muffler, very subtle - like a gentle light but rapid thud. I only hear this noise with my ear to in the front driver's wheel well. There's no ticking noise I normally attribute to leaks near the manifold. My imagination or is it easy to damage something in the circumstances I describe?
View 11 Replies
Yesterday out of no where my rio started to misfire so i immediately took it into autozone to have it checked. when doing so the check engine light was on, but solid.
The tests came back with P0300, P0301, and P0302 or 3. I cant find the papers, but its 3 cyns that are misfiring. The guy at autozone suggested i try changing out the plugs first since its cheaper and has been known to fix this issue.
The second I bought the plugs I went home and changed them out. once finished i started up the car and not only was the car still misfiring, but the check engine light is now flashing... I did notice one thing when changing the plugs.
If facing the engine the second coil from the left had a bit of what looked to be rust. i was able to wipe it off with ease. What my next move should be?
View 9 Replies
I got a 99 1.8t. Here's the deal, misfiring at idle, flashes battery light. alt and battery was checked and there great. it has a maf code, so I unplug the maf and still get the same misfiring. maf was fine be4 i tried cleaning it, now it throws the code. it had misfiring be4 i clean it also. next problem is it stutters and misses if i go wot in 4 or 5 gear and the batt light flashes it doesn't throw a misfire code. Also if I am idling and i floor it, it stutters and misses at lower rpm rage and then is fine at higher rpm range. i replaced plugs and gapped em right, i did a power balance test and the coils all are firing so is the injectors. I don't got vag but i do got a good obd2 scanner i was looking at the data wen car was off and i seen that if i floor it the tps only reads 77.7% . Also my timing says its 12 degrees and idle fuel pressure is fine i checked with a gauge. Pretty much misfiring with no codes thrown and flashing battery light.
View 17 Replies
I own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
View 3 Replies
The story is that during the last week I noticed that my car was having rough idles when it would first start on a cold morning (16 degrees). I thought I just got a bad batch of gas so I filled it all the way up with new gas and added a fuel stabilizer to it. Everything was going great until tonight on the way home it just stopped running and costed to a stop. I tried to turn it over until the battery died and even replaced the fuel pump relay (#409). Vagcom showed no faults that would explain it. I also noticed that the fuel pump didn't sound like it was priming when I turned the key.
View 24 Replies
2014 Accent 14,000 miles
Filled the tank and shortly thereafter there CEL started flashing and the car sounded like it was missing. It was towed to the dealer, and they said they cleared the light and could not get it to happen again.
When I next drove the car it ran fine for 20 minutes, then it started misfiring and the CEL started to flash. Had it towed to a different dealer, and they said the same thing. Cleared the light, but couldn't get it to happen again.
On the way home form the dealer, after about 20 minutes of driving - the same thing. Today, I started the car in the AM no light and running fine, drove around and town and in exactly 20 minutes it was misfiring again.
First dealer said it was a P0302 code.
View 4 Replies
My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
View 1 Replies
So last friday (20th) I got my the APR stage 1 tune put on my car at NGP Aberdeen. On my way out of the shop I started having symptoms that resembled a fouled plug. At the two stop signs I came to my car died.
I turned back to have the fellas at NGP investigate problem. About 20 minutes later the tech that had been problem shooting my issue told me that a boost pipe with a quick connector blew itself off. Something that he had never seen before. I'm on my way home this afternoon and I start getting the same feeling (lack of power and slight bucking/misfiring feeling) I had last week.
It got dark outside before I could take a look, so I'm curious what you all think. Could it be this mysterious boost pipe? If so which one do you think it may be (I already checked the one that goes into the "stage II" pipe, and that one is connected). Also, any thoughts on how to make the quick connector stay with my increased boost? Otherwise, what are the symptoms of a ruined DV?
Current Mods: APR Stg I intake, APR Stg I flash (running 93 oct right now), no other engine mods.
View 16 Replies
Heading to work this morning, taking the back roads as usual. Came to the nice RH sweeping curve that ends in an uphill straight (where I typically like to play a bit). Caught 3rd, nailed it coming out of the curve, and instead of "grip and go" the .:R completely loses power. Limped to side of road...tried to restart. Acts exactly like out of gas, but tank is almost full. Bummer...and I'm very aggravated at this point.
Called roadside assistance and they sent someone who had it on a rollback in under 30 minutes. Caught a ride with the truck to my job...call the dealership and asked for a ride and loaner. That all worked out, so now I'm calmed down and feel satisfied with the courtesy and service I've received thus far.
BTW, I did have the fuel tank valve recall thing performed a month or more ago. Not going to speculate, though, as to whether this had anything to do with anything. Also, I have never had any problem, hiccups, or anything negative happen to the car (14K on odo) prior to this.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
View 11 Replies
My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
View 7 Replies
Last wednesday when I was on my way home, the car felt like it lost power and the RPMs dropped, I keep on driving until I got home, I let the car cool off for a few minutes then I tried to start it and it wouldn't, after a few tries the car started and then died.
I didn't take it to the dealer because it was kinda late but I called and made an appointment for the next day, I ended up not taking in the car since it ran good all day and I know they don't do nothing unless they can replicate the problem, now this morning the car started acting again and it smells like gas inside the cabin and weird noises are coming from the gas tank filler neck.
[URL]..........................................
View 23 Replies
