During the winter you have to warm up the car before driving. I have always avoided those after market remote starters and just went out, start the car and lock it with the other key (2 last cars were Passats). the GTI wont let me lock it. This is stupid I am not going to sit in the car and freeze for 15 minutes, is there no way to change this with the menu settings?
View 8 RepliesIs there a way to step out and lock the doors with the engine still running?
View 12 RepliesI like to stop for a morning coffee en route to work, about 2 minutes out of my driveway. I'd like to keep the engine running during that time to continue warming the cabin, so I have some chance of taking my gloves off at a traffic light rather than once I'm on the highway. It's about 90 seconds that makes all the difference.
However, only a fool would leave it running and unlocked, while running inside the store. The keyfob can't lock the doors like this (it's ignored while the hybrid system is on), so I use the hard-key once I'm outside. However, that's slow and fiddly, especially with gloves, especially unlocking it again when I come out with my purchase in my hands.
I have a 2012 SE HB. Is there any way to have the remote lock and unlock the doors while the engine is running?
Also, my window lock button locks all of the window roll down buttons in the car except the driver side window button. It even locks the window buttons on the driver side door. Why in the world would it be useful to lock myself out of rolling down a window? Is there any way to fix this so that I can roll down the rear or passenger windows while they are locked for the kids in the back?
The wheel and brakes simply lock up while the engine is still running. That is the wheel can not, or with great difficulty and only a tiny bit, be moved and the brakes cannot be pushed down. I did try to pump the brakes four times when the engine was off and each time the pressure increases which I think was a test for brake boosters being OK? The way I got out of this situation was to get off the gas pedal, down shift, close the engine while on the road still and then quickly starting up again, and up shifting to Drive at which point all is normal. It happened before but I was not able to discern if the engine was running or not at that time ( initially when this happened I though the car had stopped actually) but this time there were no fans, no sounds, and a very empty road so I was able to tell that the engine indeed stays on the whole time this happens. I will take this car in but am trying to understand more about this kind of problem.
View 3 RepliesWinter is coming and I often leave the car running in the morning when stopping a few minutes to drop off the kids, etc. (otherwise it all fogs up and I need to wait a few minutes again before I can leave).
Issue is, when the santa fe engine is running, if I close the door, the car beeps for like 5 seconds, every time I close a door. (Close my door, beepppp, get the kid, beeeeeepppppp, get the bag, beeeepppppppppp) and then, I cant lock the doors so I have to leave the car unlocked after it has beeped 3x 5 seconds to alert anyone around that the doors are unlocked and that it's still running.
Hyundai is supposed to install my remote starter next week, which at least will fix the issue of being unable to leave the car running with the doors locked, but the beeping all the time is REALLY ANNOYING. I KNOW THAT MY CAR IS STILL RUNNING. Dealer is telling me they cant disable the beep.
Last night I was cruising at about 55 when the EPC light came on. At first, I didn't feel anything unusual, but shortly after exiting onto a surface street the engine was definitely running on three cylinders. I immediately turned around and drove the four or five miles home (still on three cylinders) and parked it.
My car is a 2011 with 21K miles. I had an APR flash (Stage 1) done about 2 months ago. (I'm not saying that there's necessarily a connection.) What might be going on? I plan to take it to the dealer tomorrow after resetting to stock program (though I understand it can still be detected). Is it okay to drive it? (Assuming that it will start.)
I own a 2012 Black Golf TDI, had it for about 3 months now and loving it.
Anyways, so I'm aware that when the car shuts off, the fan is still running until it finally cuts off. Last night I got home and when I exited the car, it was blowing pretty loud like the car was still on. I didn't think much of it and just went in the house for a few minutes. It was bugging me that it was louder than usual so I went out to pop the hood to see what's going on. Found nothing so I went ahead and started it up again and shut it off. The fan noise went away after that and shut off properly.
Is there any harm that the fan was blowing louder than usual? I know it's a little vague but just wanted to get an idea because this was the first time it happened.
Starts right up, runs fine. No CEL. No warning. No symptoms. It just stops running. It may or may not start right back up, but when it does start back it runs as fine as it was running before it quit.
View 2 RepliesToday, while about to take off after stopping at a traffic light my engine unexpectedly died. I noticed that the "red battery warning signal" (something to do with the electrical systems) lit up at this time.
I restarted the engine without trouble but since then I have noticed that the car feels a bit more jerky to drive and is not as stable at idle.
Upon leaving the car, I also noticed a burning smell coming from somewhere in the rear. The weather here is fairly cool so I would rule out high temperatures as the cause of the problem.
I have read the lengthy thread below about people having hiccup issues with their R, but I think it is time to start a new one as that is very confusing and still inconclusive.
From what I have read, there seem to be two possible problems to why engines unexpectedly die or hiccup. 1. Faulty stock ECU, or 2. Faulty fuel pump and canister, or both.
I'd like to know whether people who have similar experiences, who have since
A) reflashed their ECU with an aftermarket one, or
B) installed a new fuel tank/pump from VW - have solved this problem.
My R only has 100 miles on it, and it is very disappointing to know that it is not running as it should.
I'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
So my gf and I have noticed that AC in my car smells stale. The smell is most comparable to when you run AC without the engine on. What could be the problem?
View 24 RepliesCan you lock the IS-F from the outside while its still running? Occasionally I will let the car warmup or idle while I step away from it, and try to lock it with the remote but no luck. Any way to do this?
View 4 RepliesToday my check engine light turned on, not sure why car is still running perfectly fine ( from what i can tell ) .
View 4 RepliesAbout a week ago I purchased a new K&N air filter for my '09 GLI (6spd stick & all factory options with 55,000k on the odometer). Outwardly the vehicle seemed to run better (although a new clean air filter of any type will make a vehicle run better) however, 2 days later I noticed that the engine seems to chug a little when it was cold. Not missing like a plug wire off but a chug where it surges forward then holds back continually until the engine warms up. This persists today. I've also noticed a little bit of a rough idle. I've re-inspected my installation and nothing seems to have come loose and the filter fits perfectly.
View 9 RepliesOur R32 has 2428 miles- and today the check engine light came on and it started to run pretty rough, babied it home and the the light was blinking when I turned into the driveway.. I know that booklet 3.2 in the owners manual is diagnosing catalytic converter issues...I have always used super unleaded, it hasn't even reached the halfway point of the first service.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T manual transmission... I just purchased it...upon starting it up, it runs fine... After I have run it for a while, it gets a distinctive, constant, pretty fast ticking sound near the engine...
It's hard to pinpoint where it is coming from, but it seems to be coming from the right side of the engine or from an EGR valve?
It only makes the ticking sound AFTER it has fully warmed up and i have driven it awhile...and only at idle...if i rev up the engine, it goes away instantly...but starts again when it idles...
I often make 25-30 quick drop off stops on my daily travels and need How to lock the doors with the car running as that many stops and starts will wear out my starter and be really hard on the car.
I know it is possible for the doors to lock while the engine is running as my car came with an aftermarket (pro start) remote starter. It will actually lock the door when it starts the engine, which is inherently useless as my car is always locked when I start it (from the the house) before I get dressed to go outside in cold weatheras well as I am not worried about someone driving away in it without the key to start.
In my old car (mazda) I could just keep the FOB in my pocket and lock the doors either manually or by the FOB when I got out. My Sonata wont even lock by the the FOB which is really frustrating because obviously in that case I am leaving the car running and want to lock the doors, IE: to warm up the car. I can understand why the door locks are disabled with the key in to prevent lockouts but if you need to warm up your car or Like me need to lock it while I am gone for less than a min.
01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
[IMG] FilesImage_1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_3.jpg[/IMG]
Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
So my temp light comes on in my 2002 gti 1.8t. The light comes on with the engine cold and not running, just keys in. I replaced the temp sender and the fan switch. I already checked the fuses, still good. The only thing i can think of now is the relay. There is plenty of coolant in the system as well. And I am not getting any CEL.
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