Golf/GTI VI :: Lack Of Power - Misfiring - Boost Pipe Blew - Symptoms Of Ruined DV?
Apr 27, 2012
So last friday (20th) I got my the APR stage 1 tune put on my car at NGP Aberdeen. On my way out of the shop I started having symptoms that resembled a fouled plug. At the two stop signs I came to my car died.
I turned back to have the fellas at NGP investigate problem. About 20 minutes later the tech that had been problem shooting my issue told me that a boost pipe with a quick connector blew itself off. Something that he had never seen before. I'm on my way home this afternoon and I start getting the same feeling (lack of power and slight bucking/misfiring feeling) I had last week.
It got dark outside before I could take a look, so I'm curious what you all think. Could it be this mysterious boost pipe? If so which one do you think it may be (I already checked the one that goes into the "stage II" pipe, and that one is connected). Also, any thoughts on how to make the quick connector stay with my increased boost? Otherwise, what are the symptoms of a ruined DV?
Current Mods: APR Stg I intake, APR Stg I flash (running 93 oct right now), no other engine mods.
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Got a 2 wheel drive 2000 Excursion with approx. 215K miles with the 7.3L.
Slight shake in motor + you can literally floor the pedal and you'll move a little faster than a snail.
Does this sound like bad injectors? Also - tried to start it today and it was just cranking forever...Couldn't get it to start..I did notice while I was in drivers seat looking out the window...some white smoke coming from tail pipe while it was cranking...
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Well, since I replaced the MAP hose a few weeks ago the old girl has been running fine. Until yesterday. I was leaving work and she had low boost, less than 10PSI, and as I passed by a parked tractor trailer I could hear the sound of high pressure air escaping because I had my window rolled down.
So today I checked it out. I found three possible leaks spots, BUT no "smoking gun". Take a look at the pics. The damage you are seeing is on the outside of the hot side boot at the turbo and the bottom of the cold side CAC tube. The cracks don't appear to penetrate to the inside. Could these still be possible leak sites? IDK.
I'm going to order replacements anyway. Ford wants WAY to much for these parts. I checked the MAP hose and it is just like new from several weeks ago. Also, I inspected the inter-cooler as best that I can without removing it. I don't see any issues with the tanks or the tank-to-core mounting. It all looks normal. If it does fail where does it normally fail at?
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I've been having issue with my truck lacking boost over the past month or so. The psi levels are normal in the morning when I start it up cold, the problem almost always occurs at start-up when the truck is somewhat warm and has been sitting for an hour or more after use. I've had boost levels at idle from -0.14psi to -0.56psi and as low as -1.2psi when driving as the problem is occurring, but it eventually kicks on and goes to normal levels after several minutes of driving. After originally taking the truck to a local diesel mechanic I was told it had EGR codes and they recommended installing an SCT tuner and cleaning the EGR valve to solve the problem. I had them install an SCT 5015 tuner and clean the valve but I've still been having the problems with boost.
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I drive an 08 f-350 with 120k no tune or deletes..(yet). I was driving home yesterday when I all of a sudden I have a lack and power. I then notice i have no boost at all. I heard an exhaust leak and instantly checked my boots on inter-cooler pipes....
After farther inspection, the bolt fairy came and I am missing some bolts on my up pipe where it meets turbo. Is this break in vacuum system the reason I'm having no boost? What is easiest way to get to up pipes without removing cab? Where did the bolts go? I got to get this fixed because I need truck to get around town.
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I'm having a misfire issue on my 1.8t. When I go into high boost I'm getting bogged down and misfiring.
I plugged in my obd2 adapter and it gave me a misfire on cylinder 3. I since cleared the code to try and see if it was a coil pack by switching it to another cylinder, but now the cel won't come back on although the problem persists.
I have recently changed the plugs and the car was fine. I then added a fuel injector treatment and the misfire started shortly afterwards. (coincidence perhaps). It's frustrating as I can't rule out coil packs as my cel won't come back on and my code reader is not displaying any faults.
I did previously have a cel with something about fuel trim bank 3? I am also sure I have a boost leak as the car whistles pretty loud under boost.
Also worth mentioning I have a bit of white smoke sometimes but I'm not using oil or coolant and they are not mixing either. I'm at the end of my tether with this car and just want to try get it back to normal.
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Only had my R32 a few months, but when i drive it after leaving it stood for a while (basically from cold), i find i am unable to accelerate briskly (not trashing from cold, but for example pulling out of a junction) the car feels flat like it's holding back, once over 3000rpm(ish) it seems to suddenly jerk into life.
In the lower revs you can put your foot to the floor, and whilst there's more noise the car feels very sluggish and lumpy.
But once the car has warmed up, and the temperature gauge has been sat at 90degrees for some time, the car will wake up and drive totally normal.
I have the 6463 software update, i also have the latest green top coolant temp sensor. There are no fault codes, or misfires registering on vag-com, and I've cleaned my MAF sensor (plus done idle and full load logs which all look fine).
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So lately have had few symptoms of fuel pump going out and all that but tonight randomly wouldn't start and I mean no power, no lights, no turn over, no anything like my key fob won't even set my alarm or unlock car is this another symptom.
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What are the symtoms of a bad fuel regulator?
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Ok so first of all my car started perfect everyday but i live in Boca Raton FL so it is normally very hot but the past few days it has gotten rather cold for FL like 30ish...So my question is...is it possible that my starter endured such extreme different weather changes that it ruined it or could it be that it has been too cold for the starter to work two nights ago it didnt work and also this morning but it started warming up again and it took a while seconds but it started but very bad??? could it be it just has to warm up again and it will be fine? or do i need a new starter..
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I was driving home today and when I got on to the freeway, the car lost power and the check engine light started to flash like it was misfiring, also the EPC light came on. When I got off the freeway and let it idle, it idled rough until I turned the car off and put my APR flash back to stock. After that the car was idling fine and the check engine and EPC lights were gone. Everything seemed to be working fine until I hit about 75 mph. The car started sputtering again only as long as i tried to accelerate. Under light to moderate acceleration the car works fine up to about 70 mph. After that or under heavy acceleration the car sputters and the CE light flashes and then turns off.
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So I installed a new f23 turbo about a month ago now. Doug over at frankenturbo has been working with me to tune my car, but we have figured there is a possible boost leak. I've checked all my hoses and can not find any bad connections. My current setup is a forge twintercooler, cts intake, and a ecs boost gauge. I've been over everything 3 times now and can not see where anything could be leaking. I can tell you when in low rpm's the power and boost is very weak. Doug suggested to turn the wastegate up and we did. Still no result for the low rpm to build boost. I'm at a loss.
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I have a 02 Jetta TDI with 186k miles. Couple weeks ago it all of a sudden started making boost noise when I was driving to work and then on the way back I was getting almost no power. Like over boost and under boost issue, so I assumed it was the MAP sensor. I got busy next couple weeks and then tried to start the car but now the car is not starting.
Completely charged the battery so its not the battery. Looked online and it seemed like it could be the 109 relay for the fuel pump. I pulled the back seat off and I can't hear the fuel pump prime up. I got a new relay from auto zone and put it in, still same thing. I don't want to have to replace the fuel pump only to find out its not the fuel pump. I ran the code and I'm getting the P1556 code (charge pressure control negative deviation).
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune. Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi. Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slow and boost won't work. I'm not sure what else I should get to restore my car to perform fully.
I'm currently on the factory ko3 turbo and the previous owner had nitrous hookups and lines to the motor.
I'm already 3k into fixing it. Needed new shift cables and a fresh transmission
I'm hoping to push about 250hp maybe 300hp
The boost problem is fixed once I turn the car off and back on. I just want it to work again without having to spend an arm and leg on parts and labor. My mechanic works at Volkswagen dealership. But isn't allowed to work on my car due to dealership policies about working on vehicles older than 10 years old. The guy who tuned my car professionally at an apr shop told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that) for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start.
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune...
Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi
Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slowe and boost won't work
The guy told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that)for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start. I am new to this.
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Ok here is my question. I've noticed the power on my car has felt inconsistant for the last little while. I finally got around to logging the car and my boost peaks at mid 20's just over 3000 RPM and then drops fast to between 13-15 psi before I even get to 5000 RPM.
Under full boost I hear a low fluttering sound like the diverter valve opening and closing when this is happening. I also don't get the typical diverter valve sound when shifting when the car is doing this.
I took my diverter valve out and inspected it. I can pushing the piston up very easily with almost no resistance, is that normal? I would think that it should be hard to push the piston up if not wouldn't boost pressure be able to overcome the piston and leak past?
My mods are. HPA tune, HPA catted down pipe, and VWR intake.
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A word of caution of to any 7.3 owner. If you have over 200K miles and dont know if the power steering hose has been changed, CHANGE IT!!!. Its a $30 part.
Mine failed while I was towing a 9000 lb boat. I am very lucky that it happened where it did. I was going slow and just came out of a curve. It was a beast to wrestle off the road out of the way with no power steering or brakes. It felt like there was NO brakes at all. All the what ifs scared the crap out of me if it had failed at a greater speed or curvy section of road.
I had inspected the hose in the past and the rubber looked good with no marks or gouges. The 90 degree fitting coming out of the pump failed!
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
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While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
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