Golf/GTI VI :: Knocking Sound Both In Forward And Reverse
Jan 30, 2011
I have a strange knocking sound coming from one of the front wheel wells It sounds like a CV joint going out, but only knocks when the suspension goes up and down. I noticed it after about a week after I installed some H&R sport springs. Its not very loud and is not continuous knocking like a CV joint would be... It does it both in forward and reverse. The H&R sport springs make the car look better and it drives great otherwise.
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I have a 2000 grand caravan that has no reverse. When the problem started, it had no forward or reverse and a low ticking sound in reverse. Had it towed to the house where it sat for months. Decided to remove and charge battery and start engine. To my surprise, when i started the van and shifted into drive, the van moved forward and trans would hold even when brake applied without slipping. When i shifted into reverse, i had nothing but a low ticking or knocking noise. Does this sound familiar. Could it be an axle problem or a definite transmission failure.
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Just recently, my '93 transport 3800 has started making weird sounds when engaging transmission , forward...and specially reverse. This is not a transmission problem. It sounds like there is increased torsional movement of the engine/transmission unit and it made me take a look at the engine while would shift in drive and reverse....it does lean much..impressive ..but in fact I do not remember having tried looking for that before...so I cannot compare.
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I have an 02 mercury mountaineer awd. It's making a clunking/clanging sound when going in forward and reverse and it gets louder when turning. Just replaced driver cv axle, changed fluids on front and rear differential also put the stiction modifier in rear. It only does it on the ground assuming it's putting a load on it. Won't do it on a lift. What might be causing it. Tires are same size also.
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I was driving out of a parking lot and as I accelerated onto the main road my vehicle stopped. I heard a grinding sound and could not go forward or reverse. While the car is in drive, park or reverse my car will roll any which way. It pushed it across the street. I tried to locate my tranny dipstick via visual inspection and manual. I could not find it. Could the stick have never been put back at some point in service and caused this issue. That seems unlikely but the thought occurred. Could it be the velocity joint? Whatever it is it certainly sounds like a transmission issue.
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For the past couple of months my 2005 Avalon XLS has developed a clicking or knocking sound when I am turning right. I especially notice it when in reverse and turning right. Not only can you hear hit somewhat, but I can feel it vibrate through the brake pedal. It does do it while driving, but it is more noticeable when in reverse. It is also most noticeable when moving at slow speeds, such as in parking lots. It will also do it if the car is angle parked and the wheel is turning right.
Thus far my mechanic has replaced the struts, the linkage assembly, and done some work on the steering column. I'm tired of paying my mechanic to simply swap parts.
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I have a 2013 Elantra, owned since new... I recently started hearing a knocking sound coming from both front wheels while turning in reverse. I have yet to take my car in to have it looked at, if I can do it myself I will but I'm not sure where to start.
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My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
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I've only owned my neon for 3 weeks. I have a loud knocking/clunking noise and it feels like the rear is trying to freeze up in reverse it knocks/clunks louder when i brake in reverse. Sometimes it will knock/clunk and feel like something is trying freeze up in normal forward driving (maybe one of twice every few days) but it happens every single time i reverse.
We have already replaced the rear struts as we thought this was the problem.
I'm getting frustrated I need a good car to drive my child to school and I afraid to drive this one but I don't have much of a choice. It has had a lot of recent work by the previous owner (my brother-in-law) including a new clutch, exhaust, tie rods, new brakes all around and brand new tires so i'd like to fix it because it's in great shape and runs well for it age.
Another piece of information that may be relevant is the car sat for roughly a year and half with no use but was regularly started although I don't think they moved it. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the brakes?
The problem starting roughly 3 days after I bought the car I don't drive much but would like to fix this so we can take it on longer trips as it's the only vehicle we own that fits everyone in it. Our secondary is a 2 seater Toyota pickup for my husband to commute to work in and there's 3 of us so the car being in the condition it's in doesn't work for us.
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2003 jetta wagon 1.8t 106000miles with the tiptronic auto trans, has no forward or reverse, no codes, have already drained fluid and refilled, i can see the rpm gauge move when i shift from park to R to D etc, but it will not go at all, i'm thinking maybe the toque converter has failed.
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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So I started hearing a knocking sound from the glove box on start ups recently, and now it's happening while driving too. Sounds like the CD player is knocking, but I've never even put a CD in there.
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I got new 2010 golf almost a month ago. And I drove just over 1000k so far. Couple of days ago i noticed that sometimes (very randomly) when i stop some knocking sound starts coming from rear (i think somewhere around passenger side). As i stand at alight and the sound comes on, the sound disappears if i take my foot off the breaks and then appears again if i push the brakes. The sound usually goes away in about a minute. Again, the sound is quite random so I'm not able to reproduce it.
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So I changed my fuel filter a while back and I've been noticing a very mild knocking sound whenever I go over a bump. I didn't have access to a lift when I was doing this, so I attempted it with the car on the ground (worst idea ever - there wasn't enough ground clearance for me to even fit my head under there...). Everything is hooked back up as I thought it was originally (car runs fine), but now that I think about it I'm wondering if there's a bracket above the filter that should be secured within the hose clamp, along with the filter & the plastic piece that attaches to the filter. And if so, any tricks as to how I can secure the hose clamp to the bracket without having to remove the filter all over again? I had no way of telling whether or not there was a bracket... I could hardly see as it was and was more concerned about not damaging the fuel line clips.
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So I drove my R kinda hard today (nothing more than i have in the past ) but i am now getting a knocking sound. It is faint when I am at idle and get a bit louder around 2-3k, then the exhaust over takes it. i checked and have oil.. but it is making the knock as if it were low.
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So, I have a 2005 gti 1.8t, has 110k on it, just did a 3" straight pipe, and while a buddy and I were installing my new pipe, and straight pipe, he said my turbo seals were going bad. I could get the k04 cause it handles better, or get a rebuild kit. Well, today when I give it throttle, it almost makes a knocking sound from the turbo? Not from the front of the car, but at the end of straight pipe, you can hear it in that constant spool. What could this be? Time for the k04. Car has unitronic stage 2, so it gets ran hard sometimes.
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I have recently started hearing a knocking sound coming from the front of the car when i am turning. It does not happen with every single turn, but i notice it mainly when i am at a standstill and go to make a relatively sharp turn and give it a good amount of gas. Now I am not trying to do a burnout or fly off the line, but its not a grandma start either. slightly more enthusiasm than your normal daily drive start.
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I just replaced my stock shocks with Bilstein HDs. I am using the stock springs.When going around a continuous right bend , like an exit off ramp, there is a knocking sound coming from the driver side front wheel area. The sound is present only when not accelerating (foot off the gas) the knocking sound stopped once the accelerator is pressed.
I replaced the rubber upper mount and bushing when I installed the shocks, and I have checked that everything is tight. Is the problem the cv joint? I did not have this problem before I changed the shocks. I searched this subject, but no one has described exactly what I have observed.
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1999.5 gls vr6 ... 113k on the clock
Timing chain hasn't been changed yet .. Has new spark plugs & wires ..
Water pump was replaced & pulleys look fine ..
No CEL .. Yes there's oil in it.
I get a knocking sound at idle and it has absolutely no rhyme or rhythm which makes me think it's not a valve or rod(wouldn't that make a constant noise?). The sound comes from the passenger side floor board. Only happens at idle, and if you rev the engine, it will go away. Even if you don't rev the engine some times it goes away then comes back. Sometimes I hear it when i pull up to a red light real loud & most of the time the engine purrs like a kitten. I even sat in the car and told my dad when it was making the knocking/ticking noise and he went all over the top and bottom end with a mechanical stethoscope & heard absolutely nothing. Am I missing something obvious?
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I've got a 2003 Jetta with the 20v 1.8t, today I was driving along and when I slowed down coming into town, my car started making this sound that I can only describe as sounding like a tractor. It sounds like something is rattling under the valve cover.
Here's a video with the sound : [URL] ....
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My 2000 Jetta GLS is producing a clunking/knocking sound from the front end (possibly left-front) ONLY while coasting and going straight. It mostly goes away if I turn left or right and totally goes away when I give the wheels engine power or when I brake.
I recently replaced my front-left control arm due to a thrashed rear bushing. I didn't replace the bearing as I didn't have a pickle fork. Not sure if this is related.
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