Golf/GTI VI :: Key Not In Range And Car Fails To Start
Feb 6, 2010
1543 miles on my 2010 Golf TDI. got out of the car and tried to lock it, and the lock didn't. When I got back in to start it, it kicked over then the display read "Key not in range" and the engine sputtered dead.? Had to walk home a few miles to get the spare key...my mistake for not carrying both sets...my previous car was an Acura, so I didn't really need to plan for electrical failure.
Anyhow, once I got my spare key and walked a few miles back, it worked just fine. Kicked right over, happy to see me. Good thing; I hate having a car with paper tags (still too new to have the actual plates) towed to the dealer.
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So when I try to start the F there is a single click heard. Battery is tested good and is only 6 months old.
Been trying to locate the starter. From what I believe is it in the V install Valley? Meaning the entire cover needs to come off?
How to find / get to the starter. I will continue to see if the connection of cables are good.
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My 2006 Honda Civic LX has 120,000 miles. About a month ago I stopped for gas, and when I got back into the car, it wouldn't start. It cranked a couple times but then after a couple tries that stopped. The power all came on as normal (lights, radio, everything with no dimming), but the engine wouldn't go all the way. I got a jump and things were fine for a couple of weeks, then it did it to me again, following a brief stop in the grocery store after my highway commute home. Again, jumped the car and went home.
After four days with no sign of trouble, it happened again at the gas station. I then took it to a mechanic who spent 2 days with it and declared my problem a mystery. He couldn't get the car to not start for him and said my battery, alternator, fuses, everything he looked at seemed fine. He thinks it could be the starter but couldn't be completely sure enough to do such expensive work. I also let it sit for two days to see if there was a battery drain, but it started up just fine after sitting for those two days. I did notice that it seems to not want to start the day or two after I use my headlights. Now, 5 days since the last episode, it's starting but the crank is a little slow. My battery is one month old. I'm at a loss and don't want to throw money at the problem without knowing. I'm tired of driving everywhere afraid to turn the car off, too.
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I have a 2001 9-5 that has exhibited a problem for maybe two or three years now: It sometimes fails to start (won't even crank) after a short drive and sitting for about an hour.
I drive to a pool almost every morning, swim for about an hour, and then drive back. It always starts fine first thing in the morning, but once in a while it won't start after swimming. When it fails to start, if I wait about 30 minutes, it then starts fine, as if there never was a problem.
It happens maybe once every few weeks. The dealer has never been able to get it to reproduce, nor to find any fault. If I replace the battery anyway, the problem doesn't happen again for 6-12 month. There's never any indication that the battery is at fault (it always tests fine), but replacing it seems to work for a while.
I have a radar detector plugged in to the cigarette lighter, and it displays the voltage. When the car fails to start, the display is generally just below 12v (maybe 11.8 or 11.9). Once it starts, it's well above 12.
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Chevy Celebrity ... Engine is 2.8 mpfi and I have been able to get it to start by pumping the gas pedal while cranking and keeping it running by having the gas pedal depressed slightly but as soon as I let off the gas the car will die. It has a new starter, new fuel filter, half a tank of gas, new battery...
Check engine light came on and i did the paperclip trick and it showed code 43 which was knock sensor.
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Around 100k miles, my 2004 prius started failing to light the right headlight. It only happened every now and then, perhaps 5-10% of the time. It seems to fail more often in cold weather. I can always get it to light by turning headlights off and on a 2-4 times.
That seemed to work, but I still get intermittent failures where the right HID doesn't start sometimes. The left always works reliably.
Obviously replacing the ballast should solve this, but that is expensive and I wonder if perhaps there is some connection that has developed a high resistance that could be solved by reseating.
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I have a meticulously cared for 2003 Camry. When I got it a year ago it stalled at startup about 10% of the time, and it has increased to almost 50%. The engine light is on and off, but seems to have no bearing, nor does air or engine temperature. If I keep my foot on the gas even when stopped, I can drive it. Sometimes it warms up to idle, sometimes not. It stalls usually at start and always when going slow or stopping. Sometimes it succeeds in idling, sometimes it fails, but never something in between. Either it idles right at 1000rpm, or at 0.
Mechanic ran it through the computer, drove it around, tried it a bunch of times and found nothing.
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I recently purchased a 2002 Jetta VR6 GLX. It drives fine when the transmission is warm, but fails to go into reverse and has a hard time shifting out of first when it's cold. I took it to my german mechanic friend who specializes in transmissions and he said that both the valve body and transmission need to be replaced. Problem is I don't have the funds to replace both.
The current transmission has 131000 on it.
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My cruise fails to engage, sometimes first thing in the mornings, sometimes in the afternoon, cold engine or warm, fresh start or on resume. After the car is turned off for a few, something is resetting it and it then works fine. Wondering if this has something to do with a faulty switch, fuse, or whatever. I've tried the cruise switch on the stalk in turning it off for a while, keeping it pressed in, turning it back on, everything.
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We have an 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. It isn't driven very much -- only about 25,000 miles total. Lately it has been having problems when we try to start it. Sometimes it starts right up, and sometimes it needs a few tries. When it fails, we can hear the engine turning over, but don't get to ignition.
We drive this car a couple of times a month. Is it possible this issue is related to the infrequent use?
Could this be something more serious? What do we even ask the mechanic to look at?
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I have a 1994 F150 XLT 5.0 . The problem i am having is when I turn the ignition on I hear the fuel pump come on [both front and rear tanks] and it should stop when the system is pressurized but it does not,and the truck then fails to start. Intermittantly the pump does stop and the truck starts up.
There is fuel at the rail and there is spark,i have changed the filter ,fuel pressure regulater and the pump relay to no avail.
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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Is there a way to do it? I've noticed if i'm coming directly at the side of the car, the range is alright, but if I'm coming towards it from the front/back, I have to be within 10 feet for it to work.
It's getting on my nerves and I'd like to be able to walk away from the car and lock it from a greater distance.
My MKV would do it from across the parking lot, the MKVI will barely do it if I'm standing right next to it. Whats the deal and how can I fix this?
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My car has the KESSY system, and over the past month I've been having the following issues:
1) Sometimes, when I try to unlock the car by touching the sensor area on the door handle, the car will not unlock. No matter how i make "finger contact" or how long I hold contact, there is no response. This happens frequently recently. (I still can unlock the door using the unlock button on the remote though.)
2) sometimes, when I get into the car, with the key remote in my pocket, the center display will read "Key not in range" when I attempt to push the engine start button.
Number two has only happened to me twice.
The first occasion, I just pressed the button again and the car started no problem. The second occasion that this happened, I pushed the button again, and the engine attempted to turn over, without firing, and displaying the check engine light. The car started on the third try and was fine since.
Considerations: It's been cold lately where I am (Average ambient temperatures 35F and below). I have not tried to replicate these symptoms with the other remote. (Considering that perhaps the remote's battery is low.)
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Recently I went out to start the car with the key I typically use, and when I pressed the Start button I got the message "Key Not In Range." The key will lock / unlock the car, but simply won't start it. I've been having to use my spare / second key in the meantime. I haven't had a single problem with the car since I bought it Sept 2012.
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So I recently bought a 2004 R32 after owning like 5 other vw's (always wishing they were R's). Anyway, I am experiencing some humming noise... not quite a vibration, but the "humming" is strong enough that you can sort of feel it through the car. The "humming" happens at a range from about 30-60 mph and is only present when I'm turning left, or when there is more force on the passenger side of the car. When I'm going straight, it is very slight, but if I turn even slightly to my left it gets louder/stronger. When turning right and force is off the passenger side and on the driver side, the symptom is not present. It seems like it's coming from my front end as well, not rear.
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Yesterday morning my wife's JSW TDI wouldn't stay on after starting it. The screen kept displaying, "Key not in range". I swapped keys and every one of them did the same thing. It doesn't have keyless start, so it's not that. It would start then shut off like an immobilizer issue. I disconnected the battery terminal and reconnected it and that fixed it...for now. I did some research and everything I've found said the cluster needs replaced. I made a video of the display and the car shutting down.
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Looking for any tricks on increasing the range for remote start? Mine works great from house kitchen window to a detached garage, but would be nice if it would work through the window of a 2nd floor office building to the parking lot below. I see my lights blink when I remote lock the doors from up there, but the start wont catch. Tried a new fob battery---no luck.
Is it possible to add an antenna to the receiver in the truck (&where is the remote start receiver anyway?) Or maybe a handheld antenna near the fob?
Had a good half inch of freezing rain on the window after work today, & the remote start wouldn't work from the office--kinda useless.
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So my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
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I have just this past week noticed that my rev needle is not smooth when coming down the range! It shudders and is annoying in that way that now i have seen it I cannot un see it!!
It is very smooth on the way up under acceleration.
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Yesterday I got the low fuel warning "Range 35 miles". I drove another 10 miles, then put 10.84 gallons in. That range warning seems really conservative, since the tank is 13 gallons. I wonder how many miles I *really* have after the car warns me. (I know it is affected by my speed, terrain, head winds, if AC is on, and so forth.) . Has to try driving til they ran out of gas after getting that low fuel warning?
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