Golf/GTI VI :: Installed BFI Torque Arm Insert - Huge Vibration With Windows Up
Sep 15, 2010
I just installed Black Forest Industries Torque Arm insert for the 09+ TSI (He said TDI's work too). Anyways the vibration noise is unbearable with the windows up, it is producing this sound frequency/ pressure that gives you an instant migraine. I am a mechanic and I followed the instructions. You really can not keep the car at idle or you head will explode. If you bring the rpm's up to 1000 its all good as gravy.
View 24 Replies
Advertisement
As the title implies I need the part # for the OEM VW Stretch bolt that holds the Torque Arm insert in place. I've had the mount on my car for a few months now and I've grown tired of it.
I re-used the OEM bolt the first time and I think I'm better off replacing it as it may not be wise to unbolt it and re-torque it for a third time. Looking for the part # for the stretch bolt? I believe it's 21mm.
View 2 Replies
I just had both axle's replaced. Looked for OEM but couldn't find availability so I went with FAQ. Just had a local shop do the work. When I got my car back I've noticed that at idle I can feel some vibration. The noise is really subtle but if I rest my foot on the pedals I can feel it through the pedal. I'd describe it as a revolving sound, almost like it's coming from moving parts, although I'm at idle.
View 3 Replies
I don't know what's going on with my power windows control on the driver door. Auto up/down function is not working. It cannot roll passenger windows up or down. I checked the other 3 doors and the switches worked. I don't know where to look!
View 8 Replies
Is it possible?
View 1 Replies
Is there a better option to the standard MDI insert in the centre console? I was sure I'd seen a photo of an insert that kept the MDI but didn't waste then entire console. Am I just crazy? I mean come on, it doesn't even fit an iPhone very well. I have to put the phone in head first and then bend the cable flat to close the arm rest...
View 2 Replies
I got my d2 coils installed yesterday, everything looks good, however when I'm in throttle it shakes a little. When I'm coasting its fine.
I'm getting an alignment tomorrow they said it could fix the problem a little but the cause of the vibrations is because the angle the axels are in now. Thinking of raising it a little if after the alignment it's still there.
View 17 Replies
For about the last two months I've noticed a significant drop in my gas mileage, I usually average anywhere from 20-26mpg depending how I drive, but lately even if I am cruising with the windows up no ac nothing I can't get better than about 18mpg.
Car has about 26xxx miles, evoms intake (which I cleaned out the filter thinking that may have been it) EJ exhaust and just got REVO flashed, but my mileage has been suffering prior to that.
I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for an oil change and spark plug replacement thinking maybe thats it, I've already had the recall done, and always use 91 octane (social area) what it may be?
View 6 Replies
Been doing a lot of reading about shudder/vibration on the 2011+ F150's and it seems to all center around the two piece driveshaft found on the longer wheelbases and more during take-off than other times. I have an '11 5.0L 4x4/auto with the 145 wheelbase and the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and am experiencing a shudder in 3rd gear primarily, most noticeable during light acceleration with medium load (like gently accelerating up a slight incline).
When this is occurring I can see the tach needle fluctuating just slightly (maybe 50-150rpms, just barely bouncing) but I have no check engine light and the only time I have take-off shudder is under hard acceleration which feels like axle hop (which isn't too rare on soft leaf springs with 360hp engines!).
Anyways, this 3rd gear shudder is very soft and nobody has noticed it that has rode in the truck with me, but it sure feels like the old AODE/4R70W trans would when the fluid was getting old and the TC started to shudder during "soft" lock. 5.0L? Certainly could be a miss, though power is good, mileage is great and no CEL is lit...
View 6 Replies
I bought and installed stock g37 wheels today and I get vibration at around 50mph+ ! Could this mean i need hub ring adapters?? I believe the offset is 45 on the new rims. They are 18s.
View 3 Replies
Installed aftermarket wheels with thegorilla lock set (20 locks total)? I ask because after installing my wheels, i had slight vibration from 68-75mph (nothing really crazy, but i feel it) and now that i installed the gorilla guard locks for added safety today, i seem to be getting slight vibration at lower speeds (40mph more or less).. could it be due to the wheel guard locks?
View 14 Replies
I installed a new serpentine belt tensioner into my 1994 Chevy Suburban C1500. It vibrated as much as the old one did, so I assumed that a bit of vibration is normal and forgot about it. Well, after recently looking at some instructional videos, I am now under the impression that any vibration in the tensioner is bad. Here is what is going on -- [UrL] .... Is it OK or should I get another new tensioner?
View 4 Replies
Came home in the R32 tonight to an awful noise.. Pulled the drivers rear wheel off and pulled a small rock out from between the rotor and dust cap however in doing so, discovered a huge crack in the driveshaft! This is about 2" long... How critical is this to be repaired and is it covered under warranty at 75k mi???
View 6 Replies
I drive a 2010 Golf GTI 6 dsg and its has some performance problems - it is the not responsive huge delay in acceleration sometimes doesn't even push out the turbo, just gives me a high raw with low output. Even at robots its take a while to respond after I have put my foot down? I have taken it back to the dealership and they tell me everything is fine - they changed the DV valves and upgraded the software but the wheels are more powerfull and the output is still low.
View 3 Replies
I drive a manual 2001 vr6 jetta. I drove through a huge puddle on accident. It was still pouring and I couldn't see it, plus I've never seen this section of road flood before. Anyway my car is lowered and I have a CAI. I sucked up water, hydrolocked the car and it bogged down and died.
The next day I got it towed home, took out the plugs and did an oil change(water came out for about 5 seconds followed by the oil) and got a new air filter. I then cranked the engine blowing most of the water out of my cylinders then sprayed starter fluid in the cylinders let it sit for about an hour and cranked again. Put it all back together started it up and it sounded fine. I just let it idle until it got to running temp then shut it off. Came out the next morning started it up let it idle to running temp again shut it off then went to pull the drain plug to see if I could get anymore water out and all I saw was cappuccino colored oil. So I did another oil change and so far it has stayed a nice golden amber color.
Everything seems to be fine other than my EPC light is on. My ASR light is on too right from startup and pushing the button does nothing. I also have a CEL for emissions workshop(before this instance) but that's just an O2 sensor. And lastly it's been hard to shift into 3rd and 4th.
I don't have any problems with acceleration or surging idle or bogging down. The only things I actually notice are the trans issue and not being able to turn on and off my ASR.
Could I have water in the trans? What can I do to fix this? I was planning on doing a fluid change. I'm completely lost with the ASR problem. Everything I've read so far I don't fit in the norm of problems. EPC? No symptoms at all just a light.
View 3 Replies
I have a bone stock (other than exhaust) F-250 SD, 6.0 auto, 185k miles. I have a substantial vibration when the torque converter locks - about 50-55 mph. Once the transmission warms up (i.e. 4-5 miles from a cold start) the vibration goes away and the transmission performs flawlessly. Backing out of the throttle and allowing the TC to unlock makes the vibration go away, as does shifting into neutral. There is no noise, just a vibration that will shake the whole truck. Transmission fluid looks good, and showing full. Have had the truck about 4 months, and have not flushed or replaced the filters on transmission.
I've seen a couple of similar threads on vibrations, but not one where the vibration will completely go away. I'm thinking replace the torque converter but wanted to get more information from the experienced experts that know these 5R110s better.
2007 F-250 King Ranch 6.0 PSD, 5R110W, 4" Turbo Back, Otherwise bone stock, 185k.
View 11 Replies
So I'm getting a mild to severe shudder depending on load and acceleration rate from stop to 10-15mph... It's worse if I'm on an incline...This has started since having a lift installed...I'm guessing it has everything to do with pinion angle...right?
1999' F350 7.3L 4x4
Crew Cab Long Bed
View 2 Replies
My VW Golf TDI 2000 has 236,000 miles on it. The other day my husband jumped on the accelerator to merge onto the freeway, and it let out a huge black cloud of smoke. Wow, we thought. Weird. Impressive. Uh oh. Then we realized it was making HUGE diesel engine noises, which just got louder by the next day. Windows down, you can't hear yourself think. It also won't accelerate past 50 mph. We've spent so much money and time fixing this car. Would love to know what might be wrong this time. Just moved, no trusted mechanics who we can call. Might we have to donate it to public radio and just be done with it? Or something my husband can repair with the manual?
View 6 Replies
We've gone through pretty much every other option as to the vibration on take off and other high torque situations and have pretty much settled on the the driveshaft as the issue. I added traction bars recently thinking that the old leaf springs just aren't up to the job anymore. That seems to have worked some but it's still there. We've gone through the rear diff also and that's good. I'm looking at options for replacement of the shaft. What are the current thoughts on one piece shafts? Is aluminum the better option?
View 14 Replies
During my 35 years of experience as a production line and service engineer in the aerospace industry, it was my job to determine the least expensive and easiest foolproof way to perform any production and service operation.
Many readers here have related their experience with the oil filter housing and their difficulty with its removal and reinstallation with the need of a torque wrench to correctly tighten it. Most all technical tightening of screw systems have gone to the "angular torque method," as it is more accurate than the standard torque wrench.
View 3 Replies
i just got my edelbrock performer rpm intake and my holley 4 barrel installed but it won't run...the only way i can get it to hit and run at all is to floor it like it's flooded...then it'll run for a second but will never rev up and get going like it should...so i watched some vids on youtube for setting mixture on holley's wich i was pretty sure about anyway...turned the idle mixture screws in to snug and then out 1 and a half turns. is this a symptom of a bad vacuum leak or is it something to do with the carb maybe not enough fuel?
it's a holley 4160...list-6619...which is 600 cfm...it's on a 302 with 3 speed.
View 2 Replies
