Golf/GTI VI :: In 3rd Gear Under Hard Acceleration - Fuel Cuts Out
Sep 16, 2010
Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
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Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
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Just installed my SCT livewire TS. The truck runs good without a tune but it has egr delete so it had check engine light. So I put a performance tune with egr disabled so it cleared code. But I noticed at pretty heavy acceleration the fuel seems to cut out. Usually once boost builds. Does the same with the street tune.
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I'm not topping off or overfilling, I pull the nozzle out once the I get the 1st click/cut off whatever from gas pump nozzle once the tank is full and don't put in any extra. It doesn't do this right away (Power loss)... waits until I shut the car off for the day (after a fuel refill) and then the next day I'm driving along and for 20-30 minutes I get random complete loss of power. I don't think it's an ignition issue because it only happens when I fill the tank, but it sure feels like it. It's almost like that bad coil pack feeling. I don't know how else to explain it, just stops accelerating/cruising for a half of a second maybe once every minute or two for about 30 minutes, then it never happens again until i fill the tank.
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my wife has a 03 wagon 1.8t with a manual, lately she and i have been having problems getting car into second under normal acceleration from a stop.
Clutch is good no slippage problems.
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I have what feels like a rotational vibration (front to back) during mid to hard acceleration in 5th gear (60-65+mph) and its driving me crazy trying to figure this out. I can slightly feel it under hard acceleration in 3rd gear as well.
I have tried two different sets of wheels (both after market and stock) with no luck. I am starting to think it is in the motor and not the suspension... Or could it be the trans? What can I check/inspect to get how to tackle this?
Info on the car: 2003 Wagon 1.8T 5sp. 40k miles
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I have a '91 Camry that's my daily 50 mile round trip commute car. It runs well and still has lots of pep at 156,000. There are oil and tranny leaks (tranny leaks around the pan seal) but I check the levels and keep everything topped off. Tranny fluid and filter were changed about 20K miles ago. I am the original owner. Shifting is OK unless I accelerate hard, then it "bumps" into gear. On hard acceleration it is a pretty good bump but if I back off the gas it shifts much better. There are no other symptoms, at lower speeds it shifts fine unless the A/C is on, then I get bumps above the 1-2 shift. What the problem is?
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
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I worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
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I have 2015 GTI PP which had the APR Stage 2 with downpipe done about two weeks ago. I pretty much babied it the first week and couldn't believe how quick the car felt with a tiny little bit of throttle.
However, when I floor the car, it accelerates slower than if the throttle is slowly pressed to the floor. If I floor it and then back slowly back off the throttle as I near the upper RPMs the car starts to accelerate like it should have in the first place. The car is a total rocket if I slowly press the pedal towards the floor but if I press the pedal to much towards the floor the car slows down its acceleration that is until I start to slowly lift the pedal.
I'm at 5000ft elevation and its been pretty hot in the 80-103 F degrees. The gas out here is only 91 octane and the car has the 91 octane tune. I have tried gas from multiple stations and even tried an octane booster with no noticible improvement. I went to go log the car with my VCDS and found out that this new car uses a UDS ECU and none of the APR codes on their site match up.
Looking for a compiled list of UDS codes that actually log something useful? Or have a list that corresponds to the APR list of codes?
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My GTI knocks everytime i acceletate hard from a full stop. The car is chipped stage 1+ from unitronic, apr intake. Everything else is stock, 80.000 km. the sound comes from the front right wheel. I believe it is a top plate, but I'm not too sure.
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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I am getting a ticking noise under hard acceleration. Dealer told me the exhaust is touching the heat shield but did nothing about it. It's driving me crazy...
I may have to pull the trigger on this Borla I found for 700 shipped and new. Trying to keep my promise to myself to drive the car stock for a year b4 any major spending. That's out, I can already tell.
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I recently changed out my stock clutch for a SB Stg.2 endurance clutch. Under hard acceleration my car has developed a serious vibration. I had all four tires road forced balanced but this did nothing. It almost feels as if I have a bent wheel but had no issues prior to the install.
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I've had this happen a couple of times before on my '10 GTI - I'm on the freeway and I decide to throw the DSG into S mode and punch it, seconds after I bring it back down to D and normal engine speeds I can smell an odor that reminds me of the cat going bad - sort of like sulfur or something burning (not rubber, though). This is with my windows rolled up and A/C re-circulation turned on. What I should be checking?
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I just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
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I took delivery of my GTI last Friday and I'm loving the car so far. Coming from a 2001 Miata LS, this car is so much smoother and quiet. I especially love the engine and the sound it makes, or lack thereof. It's barely noticeable until I stomp on the gas and then there's a lovely ... growl? rumble? I'm trying to think of how to describe the sound to friends who cannot hear it firsthand.
BTW, I haven't noticed the dreaded turbo wastegate rattle between 2-3K RPMs so, no, it's not that.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
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The problem started with a slight hesitation around 2500 under hard acceleration. Then it became more pronounced from 2 to 3.5k. The CEL would blink when it happened for more than a few seconds. Eventually the CEL stayed on. Now the car idles roughly with a periodic thump feeling, and any time a load is put on the engine, it feels very rough. I don't have VAG-COM, so I don't have any codes.
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