Golf/GTI VI :: Immobilizer Along With Check Engine And Battery Light Came On
Jun 19, 2011
I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 and my Immobilizer (car & key) dash light came on, along the check engine, battery, and a few lights when tried to start my car to move it. I've been doing my research and know the problem is the communication between an RFID chip in my remote key and the key cylinder. My current remote key is old so I wonder if I need a new key. Now I do have a spare remote key (hardly used) and valet key which I could have overnighted to me.
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I have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
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I have a 2001 Prius and my wife has a 2001 Highlander. I only have 1 master key remaining for the Prius, and both cars use the same transponder type. I had a plain (metal, no transponder) copy made for the Prius, and it turns all the locks just fine. I also followed the master key programming steps with the metal non-transponder key in the ignition, but holding the Highlander key in close proximity to the ignition. It worked! If I have the highlander key on the keychain next to the metal spare Prius key, the Prius will start. The Highlander key is now a 'superkey,' it will start the Highlander, and it will also pacify the Prius immobilizer.
But this is not 100%; if it doesn't sit right on the keychain, I sometimes have to hold the Highlander key a little closer to the ignition to get it to recognize. I
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My buddy with his 2000 jetta 2.0 that starts then stalls. The immobilizer light turns on and off again as it should during the starting process. Tried reprogramming the key with the 2 key programming process, also tried removing power from the battery and touching the leads together but these are fixes for the immobilizer but the light doesn't stay flashing. Is there anything I can try while waiting for my vag-com scanner to be delivered....
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So I went to start the car (2013 C3) and it wouldn't start. The batter was horribly dead (dim screen and would only go into POWER ON mode.) I charged the battery for like a half hour using a plug in charger using the hood terminals. When I tried to turn it on later, The only thing that came on was the check engine light (really dim) so it's not charged up enough yet obviously. The issue is now it won't turn off. That check engine light is still there. No other screens are on and the vehicle doesn't make any other noises (door ajar, etc.)
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Got a new battery today but now the check engine light is on. Went to local auto parts store and was told it's the MAP sensor. I had the battery replaced 3 years prior to this and at that time the check engine light didn't turn on. Is that normal?
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I am a proud owner of a 2008 gx 470. So far I absolutely love the truck! How to get the "engine immobilizer" light to stop blinking. The other night my battery died. While waiting for a friend to come give me a jump, I noticed the car emblem with a key in it started to blink. After a successful jump, the engine immobilizer is still blinking only when I shut off the car. How I can stop it?
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I've got a 2004 Golf 2.0 GL.....and for some reason this morning out of the blue when I tried to start the car to go to work it fired right up....and then about 1-2 seconds later immediately dies. I tried several times to start it....but every time it fired right up, then dies in a second or two. I also noticed that I'm getting the Immobilizer light on the dash....I'm guessing this is the problem.
Why would I get this all of a sudden? Did something happen to the chip in my key? Could the sensor in the steering column by bad? I don't want to have to load this thing on a trailer and take it to the dealership. Why would this happen out of the blue??
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About month ago, the CHECK ENGINE, VSC, and VSC OFF lights came on in the dash of my '03 SC430 (~175k miles). Took it to the dealer and they read the codes; indicating a bad O2 sensor. They replaced it, and the lights went off. A few days later, the lights came back on. The lights remained ON until this past weekend.
On Sunday, i went to start the car in the morning and the thing wouldn't turn over. Turns out the battery was dead. The label indicated it was 5yrs old. So i bought a new battery. After installation, i noticed the error lights were no longer illuminated on the dash, but just figured it was due to the fact that the battery was disconnected during installation. But after driving it extensively since then, the lights have remained off.
Something else i've noticed since installing the new battery is the lack of the "rotten egg" smell from the exhaust. Before the change, i noticed a significant decrease in acceleration and the emissions smelled very bad. But for the past few days, i've noticed a dramatic increase in power and cleaner smelling emissions. Not sure if they're related...
Could the check engine lights have been the result of my battery dying? I'm not sure why they haven't come back on since the battery replacement. Nor a reason why i'm noticing improved performance and better smelling emissions.
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I just switched out my hybrid battery and put in a brand new one. Now, the car isn't doing anything and all that's on is the check engine light. What now? I was told I had to tow it to Toyota and have them reset the computer. Sound right?
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The mechanic I use told me how he repaired a fault with the Honda Civic hybrid battery that kept the check engine light on and indicated a code for a faulty battery. It appears that if the different cells in the battery have a voltage variance between them that is outside of the parameters set, the light will come on and stay on. The customer was told by Honda service that he needed a new battery, but the car was out of the warraqnty period.
The mechanic theorized that he could remedy this if he drained the battery down and recharged it. After two cycles, the check engine light went off. I wonder if this would work for other hybrid owners?
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2009 2.4 Sonata. Replaced the battery. Engine light came on after battery replacement. Engine code P0106 (MAP sensor or vacuum leak). Car drove fine before and after the battery replacement. Engine light after replacing battery?
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2nd battery in 2010 Sonata 4-cyl died on my wife last night. Got a new battery today and put it in. (Couldn't move car even to push as there wasn't enough juice left to get transmission out of Park). Started right up after battery replacement and ran engine at idle for probably a half hour. Engine seemed to run a little funny. Lost RPM's and sounded like it might die a couple of times, but it stayed running. Now the dreaded check engine light is on. I've had a couple of stop-starts since it began, so I'm not sure it's going to go away. Car seems to be running fine now. Is there a connection between the battery going dead (so dead I lost radio presets and trip odometer readings) and something fouling up the check engine system?
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2009 Sonata 4 cyl with 40,000 miles.
My car was slow to start last night. This morning took it to Autozone and they checked the battery, which was bad. Got the new battery installed and drove about a mile then turned off engine. Upon restarting engine, Check Engine Light came on.
The timing is such that it seems the CEL is because of the battery. How to handle? My car has otherwise run perfectly in its first 40,000 miles of life. Only other relevant detail is that the presets on my radio kept resetting, I figured this may be because of low battery power.
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Well last night on my way home after work (2:30 AM) I was on the turnpike and puff my car shut down and anti theft immobilizer light started blinking and the car won't start got it tow....
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I have a 07 Camry XLE. My previous battery started dying on me so I changed to an Optima Yellowtop battery. Next day the check engine light came on, and sometimes while idle the car starts stalling, it never turns off though just that the RPM goes really low and the acceleration is really slow and it feels like the car is having trouble accelerating. Today it happened again but I was over 60MPH and hitting the gas pedal and it seemed to stop accelerating a few times.
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I have a small problem with my 2011 Camry base model manual transmission. I replaced my rear view mirror and installed the EC homelink with compass rear view mirror as the replacement. I followed the instructions and it works fine but after connecting the battery again and turning the car on my check engine light stays on. I had the same problem when I installed my HID head light kit and I disconnected the battery and apparently it reseted the computer because the check engine light turned off, but I tried to disconnect and reconnect the battery twice now after installing the mirror and my check engine light is still on. How to reset it?
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My check engine light came on, I took the car to my usual mechanic, and he said the codes returned indicated that two cells in the batter were bad. (I just called to get the codes, but he's out of the office for about 30 minutes on a test drive...)
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I only drive my car once a month or so to visit family. A few years ago my 12v Battery stopped working in my car. I assume age and just moving my car from one side to the other every morning contributed to this. I got the battery replaced at my local Toyota dealership in Jan 2012.
In early March of this year my 12v battery died again. I jump started my car every morning (with a portable battery pack) until I was ready to drive it a distance a few weeks later. I got about 2 miles and then my check engine light came on as well as my Hybrid System Warning Light.
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I went out in the 9 degree temp this morning to start my car and take off for work. I sat down and hit the power button and some console lights came on. The gear lights were blinking with a square light around each letter (P, D, R, B...) and the pips on the fuel gauge were blinking, beeping during each blink. Also, the green light on the power button was blinking and the little light showing that the key was not in the car was also on but the key was beside me. I turned it off to try it again.
Before I turned it back on, I inserted the key in the slot and hit the power button again and just the Check Engine light came on and everything else was black. There was a slow tempo click-click-click-click... sound coming from under the hood and the Check Engine light was just sitting there. I tried to turn the car off but the power button was not doing anything. All I could do is let the Check Engine light stay on and the click-click-click-click... sound chirp away. I went back out in a couple hours and the battery was dead.
Just seeing if that might mean something specific before I go drop about $200 on a new 12v battery later today.
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic with 190K miles. Usually runs fine. The other day it was torrential downpours as I'm driving on the highway. After about 100 miles of rainy driving, I lost the ability to accelerate. All accessories still on, but no response from the gas pedal. At the same moment, the check engine light came on, then -- while coasting off an exit ramp -- the car made a loud squealing noise for about 10 seconds.
I turned the car off, and was able to restart it without problems, although the engine was idling strangely with a faint knocking/fluttering noise. Drove to a Sears where they ran diagnostics on the engine -- the only code that came up was that the TDC Sensor was picking up noise. But the car ran, so we kept driving and the check engine light shut off on its own.
Managed to drive 2 hours to our destination, but had one incident of squealing from the engine (about 10 seconds while slowing down and then speeding up), and lost ability to accelerate again, this time accompanied by the Battery Light coming on as well as the Check Engine.
Today the car is in the shop, with Check Engine light off again but Battery Light still on. Mechanic suggested it might be the Alternator, but that seems odd to me because we just replaced the alternator, battery about 5 months ago and all accessories worked fine when we lost ability to accelerate, and the car was able to restart.
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