Golf/GTI VI :: Ignition On Circuit Won't Off While Cranking Engine?
Feb 5, 2012
I need to locate a 12volt circuit which is switched on with key in the run position, but isn't cut off while cranking. The on/off/on that I have going to my gauges now messes up their auto zero function. I have to turn the key to run, back off, and then start for them to read correctly. I have poked around in the fuse box on the driver side of the dash, but every position looks to be either on all of the time or cuts off when cranking the engine.
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Symptoms:
- Longer cranking time when turning on the ignition.
- Codes P2293 - Fuel Pump Regulator 2 Performance, P0087 and P053F.
- When I get on it, the rpm would shoot up while the speed is increasing at a very slow rate.
At first, I thought it's my clutch slipping, but after watching this youtube video (not mine), I think it's the fuel pump issue.
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe, V4, 2.4L.
So the other day, my CEL and I got it scanned: p0320, or "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction."
It was accompanied with two symptoms:
1. The car will sometimes sputter on startup, and the tachometer will be zeroed out. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on, and it will start normally, albeit with a bit of a misfire on idle.
2. The car will sometimes die while at a stop. Just like the first symptom, if I turn the car off and turn it back on, it will work normally.
I looked on here, and it seemed like everyone solved a p0320 by replacing the Ignition Failure Sensor. So that's exactly what I did. But nothing changed; I still have the symptoms, and the CEL came back on and is still reading p0320.
What should be my next step? Could it be faulty wires that give power to the Ignition Failure Sensor?
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I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee (sport, six cylinder, 4WD) that won't start occasionally. 98% of the time, it starts up without problem. When it doesn't work the scenario is: put the key in, dash lights up, begin to turn the ignition switch, and suddenly the whole system looses power - no lights on he dash and of course, no cranking of the engine. If I try again immediately, I either get nothing or maybe power until I start to turn the key. If I wait ~5 minutes and try again, it fires right up. This has happened in various weather conditions.
Another problem that might be related is that about 40% of the time, it cranks but won't start in PARK. If I switch to NEUTRAL and try again, it fires right up.
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I have a 2007 e350. I installed a battery isolator and I believe I need to run a wire from the ignition circuit to the exciter post on the isolator. I found the Power Distribution Panel under the hood (drivers side) which has a fuse in slot #7 (60 amp Maxi Fuse) listed as Ignition Switch/Accessory Delay. What is the best way to tap into this?
Also, I have 8 gauge wire which I ran from the isolator to the batteries. I am second guessing this now and wondering if I should go with thicker wire?
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
[URL] ....
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My daughter drives a 2005 Passat station wagon, has a small child and one on the way. She has had intermittent problems with the car just not wanting to crank. After sitting 15-20 minutes it will crank. But the wait and not knowing if it will crank is taxing me and her. Especially since she has another one on the way. She has taken it to a reputable mechanic. They kept it for 3 days, cranking it on and off without a problem, and told her they couldn't find anything.
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The 2005 Avalon has 48K miles and it's been running well without any issues, until today.
Driving in city traffic, max speed is about 30 ml/h, The "Check Engine" light and the "VSC (Vehicle Slip Control) Off" lights came on. I did stop the engine, restarted after couple of minutes and the same lights stayed on. The car ran just fine, no noticeable difference in performance.
With the OBDCOM reader, the Avalon has this code:
P0351 232
P0351 Ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction
That seems to indicate a malfunction for cylinder A, or #1, ignition coil that has nothing to do with the "VSC" AFAIK. Is this a misread by OBDCOM reader, or the Avalon is confused?
The code had been reset via the OBDCOM reader, the car runs fine, neither of the lights come on now. Should I do something about coil A, or just wait until the code comes back?
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My 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
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I have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
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About two weeks ago I purchased an intake from a member here on vortex. I installed it, drove the R a few times, and ended up getting a CEL right afterwards for P0103 (maf circuit high). Does this have anything to do with the intake install? Car runs absolutely fine.. no weird issues. Never heard of an intake causing a code like that. Cleared it.. it came back.
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I keep having the P0102 (MAF Circuit Low) code come up. I've replaced the MAF twice already. I also have the P0113 (Intake Air Temp Sensor) which has been replaced as well. Could the breather hose coming off the Intake Air Duct leading to the oil cooler cause this.
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So today i got my first check engine in the .:R. I was merging onto the freeway and i shifted into third rather enthusiastically (didn't redline in 2nd but i was probably at 6k rpm) and put it into 3rd gave it the gas and the tires squealed and I got the traction control light. Has me a little worried since the traction control light didn't go off afterwards. Got off the freeway and pulled into a parking lot and turned it off for a minute and when i started back up I got the check engine light also. Went to schmucks and pulled the codes and the only code I was able to pull up was P0102 MAF circuit low. I highly doubt my traction control light has anything to do with the MAF circuit. I notice when in 1st and 2nd gear (can't really tell about beyond 2nd because there is too much road noise) there is a slight whine. I cleared the codes and the check engine came back but the traction control light never went off.
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Well I got all the wiring redone and things are looking good except for one major problem... my starter is no cranking. I am getting nothing on it. It, everything else is solid all connections check the thing is just NOT work. Where to begin to problem solve this?
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.3L that I recently put a new engine in. The new engine will turn over but will not start. I am not getting any spark for some reason. The OBD2 code that keeps coming up says that the crankshaft position sensor is out of circuit. I have put in a new CKP sensor and new electrical connector, new spark plugs and wires, new distributor rotor and new ignition coil and still get the same OBD2 code and it won't start.
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The engine sometimes has misfiring, and the VCDS reports "Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 7, sporadically". I changed the spark plug, the injector and the ignition coil. So the problem remained and after about 600-800kms the fault came back. Now I moved a little bit the cables of the injector plug and I noticed that the problem is solved, until a few hundred kms were driven. The cyl. 7 is near front side and I could move the cables to the injector plug under the intake manifold.
Now I know, that the problem is the plug of injector (see pics)....
My question.... I bought the plug but it is not the complete like on the pics, it's only the middle part where the cables go in. It has not this sponge-like thing which is in the whole in which goes in the cable. The grey thing which locks the plug is also not in the new plug. Maybe if I have to exchange this small parts on the new plug? I can't imagine how to change the plug, do I have to cut the cables and put them in the new plug. What kind of attachement do the cables have in this plastic plug?
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2001 jetta 2.0 VW guys a while back I was pulling a code saying that the air temp sensor circuit was low I believe it was P0112 so I replaced the maf with a bwd maf. Said it was for the car. Was fine for a day but now it has a P0102 code and the epc stays on (rough idle) what could be wrong ? Is it because the car hasn't learned the new sensor yet because I've only drove 10km or do I have a faulty sensor. BTW replacing the maf fixed the P0112 code
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So i got the UM tune done to my car then went and got my TT cams installed. After giving me car the 50 miles to adjust for the cams i get a CEL P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. Checked the connections around the maf and im noting seeing any broken vac lines or anything out of the ordinary.
Cleaned the maf and cleared the code but the CEL popped back up, got a new maf just because I like spending money on things i dont need and the CEL is still there, low speed or high speed it will pop on.
Is there anything I am missing that could be causing this problem or something i can try other then take to the place that did my cams?
2004 r32
123k miles on it
UM NA tune
carbonio CAI
TT cams
Test pipe and neuspeed cat back exhaust
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