Golf/GTI VI :: How To Get Gauge Needles To Run A Cycle On Start Up
Mar 22, 2011
How do I get my gauge needles to run a cycle on start up? It is even possible?
View 2 RepliesHow do I get my gauge needles to run a cycle on start up? It is even possible?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 F-150 with a 4.2L V6. I went out to start the truck this morning and when I powered on the ignition the needles on all the gauges and lights were normal. When the chiming stopped, I turned the key to crank the engine. I heard one click and nothing. Then I noticed all the gauge needles peg out on max, then back to zero. No power at all and nothing. Engine will not do anything. I turn the key to the off position and hear a faint beep coming from under the dash. Not a chime, but a beeping sound. The battery is about 4 months old and the starter is about 2 months old. The engine was bad in the truck when I bought it and I replaced the engine about 2 months ago. It has been running just fine up until this morning. Could the battery be bad? I also have installed new battery cable ends and checked all the connections at the starter.
View 11 RepliesI am going down the highway at 70-75 mph listening to music I look down and see my gauge needles sweeping across the faces of the gauges. The heads up display resets. Nothing else in the car changes radio keeps playing, speed doesn't change. Nothing else changed.
Mods that have affected electrical system:
Interior LEDs (front dome, rear dome, footwell lights, glove box and trunk)
1 JL 10 inch sub with JL 900/5 amp
Had the car for about a week, Autobahn with lighting pack, leaving home is set to fogs. So when its dark out and I have the switch in auto, obviously the fogs come on when I unlock the car, as soon as I push the button to start the car the headlights will come on for a microsecond, shut off, then start up again and stay on. This happens about 99% of the time and it can't be good for the ballasts.
View 13 RepliesHearing a definite (and quite annoying) clicking sound as the needles sweep back from the start up. Dealer says it is normal. How difficult is it to turn it off?
View 7 RepliesOk, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.
I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.
Why recently the fan comes on when I start the car, then a few seconds later it turns off, then a few seconds later it's on regardless of outside temp or engine temp? Is this simply caused by a malfunctioning green coolant temp sensor? What type of electrical Gremlin causes our cooling fans to cycle "on" and then "off" every three seconds?!
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country with just over 47,000 miles. I noticed that during the last few days, when I start the car, the needles on the fuel, speedometer and temperature gauges go all the way up and then back down. After they finish moving, I then see the engine lights go on and off. Normally, when I start the car, just the engine lights go on and off. The movement of the needles on the gauges is new. This is now happening about every other time I start the car.
The car itself seems to be starting and running just fine. I haven’t noticed any drop off or change in performance. What could be causing this oddity? Is this a warning that something worse is about to happen?
I have a 2005 mkiv GLI and my gas gauge, temp gauge, and information display stopped working when the car is running. They work when the car is on auxiliary but not while it's running. The lights all work on the cluster all the time but the needles don't move as soon as the car turns on.
View 3 Replies2004 F150 Supercrew
44400 miles
So I turned on my truck today and the needles acted as if they were possesed. The went under the "starting points" and vibrated there for about 5 seconds or so... Very strange. I also have been getting sluggish power from the truck. Mainly between 2000 and 3000 rpms.. Sound like a diesel at times.
98 accord v6, when we first got it about a year ago the temp gauge was a little erratic. Sometimes it would stay all the way down (cold) after driving for awhile. You can take your finger and thump the plastic and it would jump up to normal. At first it was only temp, but now all gauges including gas level are not working. Odometer still works right but the speedo goes to about 45 and stays there. Thumping still makes the needles bounce around.
View 10 RepliesMy Honda Civic (automatic transmission) is not starting. When turning the ignition, nothing happens. After turning the key off, all the instrument needles are ticking back and forth. It was a cold night last night. The battery is fairly new.
View 1 RepliesI coded the cluster to have the needles staging when you turn on the car but noticed that they don't always do it... Why?
Golf Comfortline 1.8T
I have a 05 f150, on initial startup ALL of my needles shake for about 5 seconds and then return to normal operation. What is wrong.
View 2 RepliesHearing a clicking noise as the needles sleep back after their start up dance. Dealer claiming it is normal ..
View 2 Replies2012 GTI 6 Speed
Both needles bounce while maintaining a constant speed, example going 80mph in 6th, RPM moves +/-100ish RPM and speed is 1-2 MPH. The car doesn't actually move, just the gauges. Engine doesn't sound like its miss firing MPG was 30 going 80 so it seems to run just fine. Going through the gears playing around its smooth and normal.
I'm on a road trip so very limited on anything to diagnose, just looking for some insight.
I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
I had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
So driving to work today I noticed my battery light came on..... Well I kept driving only cause I figured if my belt slipped off it would be to late to save it/if it was my temp gauge would start going into the red..... So as I'm still driving it kept turning off and then back on(the battery light) the whole way of a 25min ride.....
Finally got to work popped the hood and belt was in tact and seemed to have good tension... So I don't think it slipped or came off.... And then checked battery just to double check and everything is connected.... Now as we all know are alternators are right under the intake mani so front end has to come off to test it/replace it.....
Also when coming to red lights on the way to work the idle seemed fine never seemed to fluctuate crazy.... I know when my Audi had a bad alternator when I came to stops it about cut the motor off/did if I didn't keep the throttle revving it up but not sure as I haven't been able to test anything yet.
Not always & seemingly at random. Just like at startup after battery reconnect.
Most searches come back only with incidents at startup only. Recommendations say battery &/or alternator. Battery is Optima Red that's been in there maybe 6-7 years and all connections are clean & reads 12.48 at rest.
Alt is a AC Delco new unit replaced 20k or so ago & reading 14.24 at idle with or with out any accessory drain on the system or RPM.
Troubling thing is a code for coil misfire on # 5 which put it into limp mode (I erased & so far hasn't returned) & some comm issues with the Inova 1403 that I'm using.
Replaced the ac compressor/filter dryer/exp block on 04 dodge grand caravan. pulled vac for 45 min, let sit for 1hr. No movement of needles no leaks. charged system to 2.69, start van turn on ac compress clutch engaged but will not cycle off stays engaged. Air temp from vents 60 to 65 deg, low side 55 psi high side 250 psi at 85 deg air temp needles do not move up or down stay steady. high side hose from compress very hot ( burned hand on it ) low side hose to compress warm/cool.
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