Is there a way I can find out my trim via VIN. I went to a free website and entered my Vin but it just said "BASE/AUTOBAHN"? I dont see how its an Autoban because no leather seats.
My car has the cloth heated seats, monster mats, golf ball knob, rcd 510, moon roof, power mirrors, steering wheel with functions, bluetooth, Laguna wheels and non xenon headlights (I suppose they are still called halogens) .
Got a MIL today, and the 3 codes I found are P0047, P0204, and C0204. Only reference to P0047 is for boost control solenoid, that can't be right. Is there a good place to look up our specific car's codes?
Also, whats the difference between Current DTCs and Pending DTCs? The reader I'm using shows these codes under pending.
My CC had within the MFI a screen where you can see the tire pressure of each tire. I know my GTI has the TPMS sensors as part of the ABS, but is there no visual menu? I've read the book and there doesn't seem to be a menu. 2013 GTI Autobahn...
View 7 RepliesI was installing my LED interior light kit from deautokey and I'm pretty sure I blew a fuse. No interior lights are working now. I found the fuse box but which fuse controls interior lighting circuit.
View 7 RepliesBought my R32 in late July. So far I've just been lurking on the board, but today I have a question. I'm having difficulty removing the A-Pillar trim.
View 3 Replies2004 Jetta 1.8T
Looking for the drain plug and I can't find it for the life of me..
There is a hex bolt on a black plate that is seemingly the lowest part of the whole front-underneath, but this isn't the oil, is it? It does have a washer, that hex bolt.
It's in front of the axle, right?
Which direction does it face?
Experiencing the black b-pillar trim creak? Just pressing on that black vertical plastic trim causes the plastic sounding "creak".
Just curious... what was the solution? It's driving me nuts.. it is so sensitive that when the car just moves into the sunlight, it starts creaking as it expands in the heat.
Ever since I made my car turbo (UM tune) my long term fuel trim has been stuck in 0. When talking to Tom over at Innovative Motor sports (they were the ones that got my tune done) he stated that I must have my N80 ( Evap Purge Valve) unplugged, except that I didn't. Until recently, I had every single sensor plugged in except for my SAI pump and the flapper solenoid for the exhaust. My LTFT worked fine before and he can't figure out anything else that could be wrong. So before I send back my ECU to see if a refresh will fix it, what else should I look for?
For more info, my gas tank is venting to the atmosphere, I just have the solenoid connected electronically. This worked fine on my 1.8T so I don't see why it should be any different here. My short term fuel trims fluctuate mostly in the -10 range and off idle drivability could improve a little (thought it's not terrible) and I think that if my LTFT's were working right, it would take care of that.
I am getting tint done soon, I had thought I read this a long time ago but I couldn't remember, does tinting our windows require interior trim removal or not?
View 11 RepliesHow to remove the rear side interior trim? I want to install a rear view camera. I need to pull the trim to run the wiring along the left side to the floor and to the front of the car.
My understanding is I need to get access to the left rear side of the hatch, then underneath the carpet along the rear door trim, etc. I've seen some posts on the 2 door, but there appear to be differences between that and the 4 door.
Looking for info about some part numbers? I'm looking for the silver aluminum trim on the driver inside door. Where you rest your left arm. Also the driver black air vent assy all the way on the left where the headlight switch goes.
View 7 RepliesI took ownerhip of my R32 last week, there are a couple of things that I have noticed that I need to sort out.
1. There is a resonating sound at low speed from the rear boot trim, right where the rear windscreen wiper is, I can also make it happen when the boot is open by flicking the trim, is it loose, or what, is this a common problem..? Do I need to remove the trim and fix something...?
2. There is a black box under the driver seat with some electronics in it, I am dammned if I can get the lid to go back on properly, I have had a look and can't see any plastic Tabs broken, but it won't go back on properly, just keeps falling off...I have long legs so my seat is nearly as far back as it will go for me to drive, so this box is exposed, I need to get this on properly.
3. The cupholder thing down between the driver and passenger seat, there is a sliding lid on it, it is stuck half open (or closed..!?) and I can't get it open or closed, how th heck do I get at this to fix it...?
4. I will be looking what version Firmware the RNS 510 / MFD2 is, I am also looking for iphone integration, I have blue tooth for calls, and Sat Nav and the bigger display MFD....and would like to control the phone / tunes with the steering wheel, and see the track info in the MFD.
So my GTI is going back to dealer tomorrow to deal with a few problems that are driving me insane.
First the hatch is rubbing against the bumper in the corners and has worn away the paint on both sides.
Then there is the A pillar trim on passenger side that has come loose at the top, also we have the rear lights that are letting in water on both sides and finally the start button is starting to fall apart and has cracked!!
I have owned 4 vw's from new and never encountered this level of shoddy workmanship. I can only put it down to new plant and new model, very annoying.
Purchased in June and has 12,000 and love it but these niggles are frustrating.
I noticed that I have some light scratches on the black plastic trim on outside of the doors (more than likely done by the place that tinted my windows, ). How to buff these out. They are more like micro-scratches and swirl marks more than anything else. I tried car paint polish in a small corner and it had no effect.
View 6 RepliesI was washing my car today and noticed that the trim pieces inside of the front doors are missing. The drivers door has a screw in it and the passenger door has a little plastic bumper and it just falls out if you touch it. I don't remember this piece ever being there before and there is no screw on this door right now. The pieces that I am talking about next extend along the door edge to finish it off. I remember these pieces because when I washed my car and wiped the door edges for the first time I recalled my MKV GTI not having this piece. My car was at a local shop for a couple of days and I think someone came in to visit and took these. The shop is very loosie goosie about letting their friends walk around the shop floor.
I was wondering if someone could shoot a pic of their door edges for me. I am going to order this part on Monday.
I am trying to figure out the best way to wire something from the ash tray area to the fuse box. Removing the trim is simple enough by the steering wheel, but I can't find how to remove the trim that surrounds the center console on the driver's side. Any pointers?
View 3 RepliesTrying to remove all the lower trim on the dashboard. Have everything but the lower right portion on the drivers side. The carbon trim on there seems to be tucked under the upper part of the dashboard itself and I can't remove it. I assume there is one final screw under there?
I can pop it loose a bit on the left corner but feel if I force that trim something is going to break.
I have a 2005 Golf GL trim 2L SOVC. For months now the car won't start on the first try. One must let off the key and disengage the starter then reengage. It always starts the second try and never starts the first. Once the engine runs for a few seconds, if you turn it off, then start it again, it immediately starts. It's never a problem en route. Only if you let the car sit for a while, say 8hrs or more, (when the fuel pressure dies) do I observe this "no start on first try" behavior.
I recently replaced the plugs and fuel filter and cleaned the throttle body. It's a little better now. It stumbles like it is going to start on the first try after sitting but doesn't.
I exposed the fuel pump and measured the voltage going to it. When you turn the key to "on" position, the engine computer put's voltage to the pump for about 1.5 seconds and that's it. So while you are cranking I guess it expects that 1.5 seconds of pump operation is enough. I put my fuel pressure guage on the port near the injectors, and, as I suspected, the pressure only builds to about 28lbs. On the second try it gets up to 40. Once running it's about at 45lbs.
Sounds like a firmware bug to me.I'm considering wiring in a switch that I can toggle to deliver more on time to the pump inititally - maybe 3 seconds? Is this normal?
I noticed that when I put the fuel pressure gauge on initially there was zero pressure. Is this normal?
Shouldn't a check valve keep it at pressure? Where is the check valve located? I'm also getting a P0171 code "engine too lean". I repaired a hole in the air hose going from the air pump to the throttle body - still get the code. All hoses look good.
Both of my doors do it, especially as they are heating up and cooling down. If you push on them you can hear the same noise that they make while driving.
View 1 RepliesAny way to find out what year/version the map in the NAV is. Not the software version found in general settings system info, but the map itself.
View 5 RepliesI currently have a N/A 97 celica st which I am going to turbo. I was going to use a ct26 turbo but can't seem to find a turbo manifold. Can I buy one or just use a manifold suitable for the turbo and weld my exhaust flange to that?
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