Golf/GTI VI :: Hesitating As Accelerated Past 2500 - 3500 RPMs - Ignition Coil Blown
Oct 20, 2010
So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
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I drive a 2005 Kia Rio with 48,000 miles. Every once in awhile (particularly after a bit of driving when everything is warmed up) the RPM won't go past 2,500. I'll put it in 1st gear, accelerate till 2,500, but as soon as it gets there, the engine gets groggy, the car slows down, and I have to quickly switch to 2nd and repeat the cycle on every gear. Flooring it makes it worse.
Obviously the fastest I can possibly go with this happening is about 50mph on 5th (just below 2,500). This has happened three times and it has fixed itself every time so far.
A possible clue may be that the check engine light frequently comes on, and its always the same culprit: this "flow meter" sensor. I've had it replaced three times now, but it still always trips the engine light. I now just ignore the check engine light.
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We bought it in 2010, since then we have replaced 5 ignition coils and 2-3 batteries. Everytime the car acts up, the VSC and traction lights come on and the car starts stumbling and hesitating. The car eventually dies within a few minutes. Pull up codes and its always been an ignition coil.
Well we had all of these covered under warranty until the warranty expired in Aug. A month ago this happened again, and thought the battery was dead. It ended up being #4 coil, so I replaced.
My wife drove last week and lights came on and lights started going on/off and dinging at her and the car died. I jumped it to get it home, turned off the car and was dead. Voltage at battery was 9 volts.
I charged overnight and started the next day. I pulled negative battery cable w car running to check alternator and it stayed running, so that's good. The car is now starting just fine again.....until this happens again.....which it will.
My question is what in the heck can be making all of the coils go bad and why is the car intermittently throwing warning lights and just dying? This last time the codes pulled we P0345, PO365, PO390. All of which I don't see an explanation for.
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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My 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
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Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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I have this problem with my 2001 Santa fe 2.7 Lt auto done 326,000 km no power on hills sometime want rev past 3500 revs and sometimes will rev past this, it seem to get worse when fitted new fuel filter in the tank? have put new filters and O rings in injections, have just fitted new coils and the cat has no restriction. Starts first time but did have trouble the auto would not start in park until pulled top cover and got it out of park and started it in neutral changed the trans fluid and seems to move through the selection better. Could it be the fuel pump??
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So it seams to have a sputter around 2500 to about 3500. When it should be boosting I am guessing. Engine Lite flashes then goes out for catalytic efficiency. Cleared codes but always comes back thoughts are cat or o2 problems. Minor mods downpipe, exhaust, and bypass valve. And Fuel mileage gone down quite a bit.
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My 04 EDGE 3.0 when sitting in Park will not rev up past 3500 RPM. The check engine light has been on for awhile showing P0316 and I believe P0302. My mechanic said number 2 is misfiring; the coil packs/wires/injectors are all good. He said eventually if I want to keep it a new engine would be needed, but as long as it's not burning oil it should be okay to drive for awhile. Why it won't rev up? I wouldn't think one cylinder misfiring would cause that.
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The wife's Jetta wagon has been giving us some issue. It is a 2001 2.0 AZG engine auto trans wagon. 195,000 highway miles and well serviced and taken care of.
Here is the symptom : Engine will NOT rev over 3200. It will hit 3200 and stop dead. This is the case either in gear and driving or just sitting in Neutral. The engine seems to take a bit longer to start but does every time. The car seems to run great other then the 3200 rpm ceiling.
Wife has been driving it around like this for a while and I have let the codes accumulate. Here is the codes it gave me.
16727-cam position sensor- I just replaced the CPS with no improvement, issue is still there and code still pops up. I was told this code comes on when the car does not fire on the first rotation anyhow so it could be something else.
16804-cat o2 bank 1
16990-ICM issue
Cleared the codes and restarted the car. 16727 comes on immediately but other codes take a while to come on again.
I am leaning towards maybe an electrical issue? Bad ground, alternator output or something. Any tips on places of ground, connectors etc to clean and check? Also one or two guys keep mentioning coolant temp sensor and crank position sensor...but wouldn't those toss a code too?
I also pondered a plugged cat but I dunno, have had that before and you can usually tell right away...the car runs great until it hits 3200 and it is like a governor kicks in and she stops dead at 3200.
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So yesterday evening I was driving home and I noticed this clicking sound like a relay clicking on and off every time my RPMs go above 3k then drop below 2500. I am at 9Kish on the OD so I am just gonna let them know at the 10K oil change. Whatever it is or does, it isn't affecting the cars drive-ability one bit.
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Started a few days ago, There is a faint whistle noise when I am open throttle around 2500rpms. It lasts for about a second and does not occur at any other time. It does not occur under gradual acceleration, or when the car is parked/in neutral and just revving. I tried searching the forums *a little* bit, but my keywords just may have not been right.
My first inkling is that it may be related to flapper, since the rpms seem right and sounds vacuum related to me. But, the unit is completely disconnected (have borla cat-back) and the hose is ziptied, so is this possible? I will try to get a video of the noise later today.
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I have a 1994 volvo 940 turbo, the transmission has been fine, but today out of nowhere the car will not rev past 2500rpm. But only when its in drive, if i drop it to 1st or 2nd it will rev fine?
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Symptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.
What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.
After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.
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I have a '96 Saturn SL with a 1.9 SOHC. I recently removed the engine and transmission to change the clutch. I also changed the timing chain guides, the valve cover gasket, the timing chain gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crank seals and motor mounts. After I put it back in, it revs to 3500-4000 rpms and is very rich (so rich it smokes). I replaced the throttle position sensor since it had a crack at the plug and to see if that was the problem. I have looked at everything again and nothing is jumping out at me.
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Codes currently on ecm: P0134, P2125, P1174, P0735 My 2003 Santa Fe 2wd 3.5l with 160,000 miles was driving fine, then all the sudden whenever I reach about 3500 rpms there's a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from near or in the automatic transmission. As for the codes: P0134- I just replaced the o2 sensor with an oem part from autozone, so not sure why that's popping up. The connections look fine. P2125 and P1174- I'm trying to figure out whether the accelerator position sensor or throttle position sensor needs to be replaced. I have a multimeter but don't know if that will be able to tell me which one is out. The P0735 gear 5 incorrect ratio and grinding noise at 3500 rpms is what I am mostly worried about though. Could a transmission flush work with that?
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Just got a 1996 Jeep cherokee with right hand drive, 73,000 miles. Drove it less than 2500 miles when had problems with it shifting out of first gear. Would rev up the rpms to 3500 to 4500 and then a large jolt before going into next gear. Took to transmission specialist who was able to get it to act up., Now he tells me that the transmission is an import??? (was manufactured here in states and sent to Japan) Can't get the codes on the machine to tell him what is wrong with the tranny., says the codes say it is ok. Now what do I do. I need this car as I am a mail carrier and it was bought for that purpose.
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My 1994 Acura Integra makes a buzzing noise exactly between 3000 and 3500 RPMS. It sounds kind of like the sound a circular saw would make cutting wood. It only happens when I am accelerating through that range. Also, sometimes after driving for a while, it doesn't last as long and the noise stops around 3300 RPMS. I've checked the heat shield and it seems to be fine so I don't think its that. What this could be caused by?
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