Hard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
View 16 RepliesIt seems like the first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway my car acts like it not accelerating smoothly. It's kinda jerky and seems like it takes a second to get the gas. I mean I know some cars are a little jerky after not being driven for a day or so but she is brand new, only a few months old.
View 21 RepliesMy golf, made in 2008 (1.6 FSI, petrol), has a tricky problem now. When I turn on its engine for the first time in the morning, its RPM goes over 10 (12~13) with louder sound than normal. So I turn it off and on again, and then everything becomes immediately fine: RPM is below 10 and the sound is just fine. After that, the problem does not happen again all day. But it happens in the next morning when I turn on the engine for the first time in the day!!
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 ford ranger 4x4 with automatic 5r55e and it had problems shifting smoothly into third gear. I changes the valve body gaskets and the (rooster comb) detent lever. Now it shifts very hard and has on first second and passing gear.
View 6 RepliesOur 1997 Lumina with a 3.1 liter engine and about 190,000KMS is having difficulty starting in the morning.
I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, checked the connections to the battery and put dielectric grease on them. None of that seemed to make much of a difference. The key has to be held for about 5-7 seconds and it coughs to life and then runs rough for about another 5 seconds and the interior lights are dim during this too. After that it comes to life and runs great.
Is it possible for starters to start to weaken? I have never had a starter do that, they have either worked or not. Besides that, I don't know what else could be the problem.
I have heard that these engines can have condensation issues when the temperature straddles the freezing mark, which it has been the last few weeks. Maybe it just needs to get below zero and stay there?
2011 TDi 6 Speed (Sportwagon) with problems shifting into 2nd? Mine is currently in the shop under investigation for a balky shift when cold. The tech says it's not right, but then they find another vehicle in inventory with the same issue...currently waiting on a VW engineer.
View 16 RepliesI have a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. O2j trans obviously. It shifts not so smothly in any gear but stays in all gears fine. When the car is up to temp and the trans is warm it grinds going into second. It's ONLY when the car is warm. Shifts perfectly fine before that. And it's only when I shift from first into second. I can go from third to second just fine and I can pull out of first put into third without letting go of clutch and put it into second without a grind. I've changed the oil to Lucus oil 70w/90 gl-4 rated and there was absolutely no change.
View 1 Replies2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
It's hard to drive the Mk6 smoothly at low speeds. Creeping along at a snails pace the car lurches forward while trying to crawl along at about 5 mph in first gear ( 6 speed manual ).
I remember reading about replacing something that will cure this 'hiccup' in throttle response. What the part is? Is it a diverter valve or something ?
So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 RepliesMy camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
Starting yesterday, I have been experiencing a strange braking problem with my GTI. I leave my house, and then the first time I really have to use the brakes, it's like I have NO brakes. I push the pedal the normal amount, and I feel resistance in the pedal, but the car basically doesn't slow down. Then I press the pedal down HARD (don't want to run the stop sign at the bottom of the hill!) and then it slows down pretty quickly. After this first episode, the brakes are normal. Starting yesterday leaving work, it has done it to me three times in a row. It seems the car has to sit a while for this to happen.
Again, its not necessarily the first time I hit the brake pedal (my car is a manual) but it is the first time meaningful braking is needed. The car has 7k miles on it. When it started yesterday afternoon leaving work, as I pulled out, it felt like the brakes were stuck and abruptly released for a second, and it almost felt like the brakes were dragging slightly on the way home for a while. I do always use the handbrake, of course I release it fully. When I got to work, I checked all the brake rotors, they were all cool to the touch. How does the 'hill-holder' feature work (could it be messing up?)
I bought a new 2013 Toyota Prius Three. It has 23K mile on it now. I have noticed a weird noise with vibration from engine when I start the car for the first time in the morning. The first 10 or 15 seconds after it is on, there is no problem as soon as the engine wants to turn on (engage) I hear the noise. There is no engine light or triangle alarm on. What is going on?
View 7 Replies2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
Both my radiator fans run all the time, even if the engine is cold. Soon as I fire it up, even if it's 0 degrees, they are running. To be clear, as expected, the fans do not run if the car is off.
Based on these symptoms, what components could be the culprit?
01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
I drive a 12-year-old Honda CRV with 185K miles on it.
Recently, I had the car in the shop to fix an oil leak in the engine. I also had the catalytic converter replaced, since its connection point was badly rusted. Since I got the car back, I have been experiencing intermittent trouble accelerating the engine when I first start up in the morning. The engine idle sounds normal at first, but when I take my foot off the brake and put it on the accelerator, nothing happens for several seconds. Eventually, the engine seems to kick in and accelerates almost normally, though a bit more slowly than it used to.
The problem seems better if I make sure to rev the engine loudly when I first start it up and worse if the weather is damp or it has been raining since I last drove. After a few minutes of driving, the problem has always gone away so far, but it is nerve-wracking to pull up to an intersection, stop, and then have trouble accelerating to get through it, especially when there is oncoming traffic on the cross street.
Does this sound like a problem with the idling, or am I experiencing the beginning of transmission trouble, or could it be something else? Is it likely to get worse over time?
So the car is a 1999 golf gti with a 2.0 AEG with a 5 speed manual. My brothers car. He has been telling me its been hard starting in the mornings for a couple months, sometimes it dies, sometimes it idles at 500 or lower, he has to rev it up to 1500 to get it to warm up then in kinda stays normal till he cold starts the car again, then does it all over. So he was driving down to my house to leave it with me to look at and on the way over he heres a big bang. has the car towed over here.
Cyl #3 has backed itself out and clearly a serious misfire, threads look fine so I put all new plugs in oem ngk three prong, runs ok still too low 400/600 stalling a couple times. this morning i installed new wires (Bosch)and a coil (aftermarket) and it barely wants to run now, stalled instantly. So I put the old coil back in and it stays running but watching the motor, its clearly misfiring. No codes as of yet and i have no access to vagcom. I've checked the firing order and wire placement on coil like 8 times to make sure it is correct.
I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
I'm having a issue with my Chevy Lumina Z34 (1991). When it's cold outside the car has a hard time starting up! I have to crank it multiple times while giving it gas. When it starts and is warm she runs great. I've been recommended to get a fuel injector flush. I also read synthetic oil could work also. It doesn't happen all the time.
View 1 RepliesToday, while about to take off after stopping at a traffic light my engine unexpectedly died. I noticed that the "red battery warning signal" (something to do with the electrical systems) lit up at this time.
I restarted the engine without trouble but since then I have noticed that the car feels a bit more jerky to drive and is not as stable at idle.
Upon leaving the car, I also noticed a burning smell coming from somewhere in the rear. The weather here is fairly cool so I would rule out high temperatures as the cause of the problem.
I have read the lengthy thread below about people having hiccup issues with their R, but I think it is time to start a new one as that is very confusing and still inconclusive.
From what I have read, there seem to be two possible problems to why engines unexpectedly die or hiccup. 1. Faulty stock ECU, or 2. Faulty fuel pump and canister, or both.
I'd like to know whether people who have similar experiences, who have since
A) reflashed their ECU with an aftermarket one, or
B) installed a new fuel tank/pump from VW - have solved this problem.
My R only has 100 miles on it, and it is very disappointing to know that it is not running as it should.