Golf/GTI VI :: Gauge Not Reading Full Boost After VF Intake Install
Mar 16, 2012
I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
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Car now has about 67,000 miles on it. I drove it from the bay to Lake Tahoe 2 weeks ago, which is when I first noticed the light. I tried to go to a couple of autozone's to get the code read but none of them would do it. I also noticed that now on my boost gauge that i am only reading 4-5psi under load, so its not quite feeling like i'm getting as much power as before. What a common issue is at about this many miles on a 1.8t car? (GLI)
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Having problems with the fuel indicator not reading full after a fill up. I have slowly filled my 2012 Passat TDI SEL till I can see diesel in the filler neck and the gauge still only shows 7/8 full?
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Removed the battery to install a boost gauge and came back to a christmas tree cluster. Not just the usual steering/EPC either. I can post the expanded scan but you can see a lot of things are affected, still drives fine however. Airbag fault and parking brake fault appear on MFD as well.
Thursday,07,May,2015,15:43:55:18277
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20150311
[Code] ...
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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I have a 98 trans sport and the temp gauge is reading low. Only on the first line when driving then when i pulled into the garage it went up one line and heat got warmer. Felt both upper and lower hoses and i can press them both in Fluids are full no leaks anywhere. oil is good tranny fluid is good. I just got it on a trade it runs and drives great no problems at all.
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The gas gauge on my 2008 does not seem accurate. I had three bars left the other day and when I filled up it took 6.5 gallons. Normally with three bars it only takes 5.5 gallons. Also, it stays on "full" (all bars) a long time.
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I have a CTS Turbo intake and have recently purchased a heatshield. It did not come with instructions. I tried installing it this weekend and it was a no go. I'm assuming the pieces for the factory engine cover in the rear is what the heatshield needs to replace to bolt on. I couldn't get those off for the life of me.
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My MPG has fallen ~ 35% since the intake was installed. Barely did 20mpg driving at 75mph from Vegas to LA and now averaging about 17mpg on the next tank. What should I be looking for? I'm stage 1 APR (was before the Neuspeed as well) stage 1.
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Put my BSH intake in today, it's pretty good. I am pleased with the fit and finish. The only concern I have is when I'm at WOT and around 4800-5300 there is a high pitch sound along with the sound of the turbo. Is this normal or do I have an issue?
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Installed Forge Twintake on my GTI, CBFA engine code. Have had it installed for 2 weeks now, it was running funny ever since, idling was weird and every time I shifted I felt it through the clutch. Throttle response and acceleration was fine though. Yesterday driving to work the CEL came on, I scanned it today and got P0101 MAF VAF and got P150A idle speed control. I was thinking about cleaning the MAF sensor to see if that was the problem but it doesn't seem like that would solve the problem of it running weird. Was also considering reinstalling the stock intake and seeing how it ran then and or if the CEL went off.
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I just replaced my my k03s with another one with only 20k on it. After I did this, I noticed a loud screech sound when in WOT. The screech lasts a little bit after i left off the gas when revving in neutral. I've been doing research on here, and I've read that it could be a boost leak somewhere or even the turbo dying. The shaft play is minimal though.
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I have a stage 2 2002 GTI with 135k & I'm having an issue once in a while where if I go WOT the car will only boost up to about 5 (around there, don't remember) psi but if I let go and accelerate again, it'll boost normally again.
No lights or CEL comes on when it happens though. I tried searching for any info but not sure what direction to look at. I have a stock K03S, Forge DV, 3" Turboback, Short Ram Intake, FMIC. Bad N75 or DV?
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Ever since I got my car about 5/6 months ago I noticed it's not getting full boost. when I first got it the stock boost was getting about 5-7 I don't know if that's normal I've read they normally get more. eventually I got my car tuned and it's supposed to peak at 22 psi but it only got to about 13-14 psi. slowly it's been getting worse and my car is getting 2 psi. I've had lots of people tell me it's a vacuum leak. also the bov makes a flutter noise if that has anything to do with it. my intake doesn't make a sucking in noise like most do. The car has been randomly backfiring usually between gears. I just ordered a turbo inlet pipe a breather hose kit and a boost hose kit.
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Recently purchased a brand new 2013 R. With ZERO mods on it and 5,000 miles, I flashed the car to UM Stage 1. Immediately after flash I get a noise that sounds like a metal clattering in first and second gear from about 2K to full boost. Happens most audibly when the car is cold but is subtly ever present when heated up.
When the noise occurs I feel as if I'm getting half boost or a very inconsistent boost curve. The boost then kicks in after the 3,500k(ish) threshold. On rare occasions, the car will warm up and run exactly as I would expect it too. 1st, 2nd, 3rd all boost very evenly and strong from 0k and beyond with no noise and the car is amazing to drive.
To try and diagnose the issue, I flashed it back to stock and the noise disappears though I can still feel it not boosting consistently. I took it to the dealer (stock) and they said the didn't notice or couldn't hear anything which was what I expected. I'm guessing it is something the with wastegate but I don't know enough to say with any confidence.
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Ok here is my question. I've noticed the power on my car has felt inconsistant for the last little while. I finally got around to logging the car and my boost peaks at mid 20's just over 3000 RPM and then drops fast to between 13-15 psi before I even get to 5000 RPM.
Under full boost I hear a low fluttering sound like the diverter valve opening and closing when this is happening. I also don't get the typical diverter valve sound when shifting when the car is doing this.
I took my diverter valve out and inspected it. I can pushing the piston up very easily with almost no resistance, is that normal? I would think that it should be hard to push the piston up if not wouldn't boost pressure be able to overcome the piston and leak past?
My mods are. HPA tune, HPA catted down pipe, and VWR intake.
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I'm 6hrs away from my home, up in Acadia national park and all of a sudden I get a cel light and the gauge is reading 000A. I'm APR stage 2+ w/ apr hpfp.
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The car is an 02 gti. I am having problems at full boost(17 psi) where the car starts to stutter, backfire, and eventually drops to 5 psi. Throttle up to 15 psi is always smooth and there is no hesitation or misfires. It's chipped but I am unaware of which software as it was already on the car when purchased.
What I've done:
Checked for any leaks - none
Cleaned maf
Replaced plugs(0.028) and coils which was needed anyways
Coil harnesses look good
Fuel filter changed
I've read about the n75 but I am not experiencing any surge issues that many have described. I do believe the car is running a little rich because I can smell some fumes but it is very light. Car fires up just fine and idles smoothly.
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So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
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