Golf/GTI VI :: Gas Light Came On - Pump Clicked Off When Start Pumping
May 4, 2015
I drive a 2012 GTI w/ a stage 2 unitronic tune. My gas light came on today. Naturally I stopped to get gas. As soon as I began pumping the pump clicked off. It took me like 5 minutes to get one gallon of gas in and fuel started to spill out. What this might be ?
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It acts like it is fuel poor, As if the fuel pump is not pumping. It spins fast on start. Then another try and it starts! No relationship to hot or cold. Fuel OK. Battery strong. I find no corrosion on fuel pump leads.
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So for about two months now, every time I get gas, the pump cuts off almost immediately after i start pumping. After that, I am able to pump about a second or two before the pump shuts off. It recently has started spitting gas back out of the tank (I'm assuming it's the gas I just pumped into it being spit out). I'm not sure what is wrong. I have not gotten into an accident, there is no smell of gas in the car, the gauge still works fine, and no check engine light on.
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Ok so I disconnected the fuel line and the fuel pumps when I turn the key to on and when I crank it it's not pumping gas ..
Changed the relay
Changed the crank pos sensor
I'm at a loss what would cause the fuel pump not pump when cranking?
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The 2006 Prius that my wife and I bought used last year has chosen a frustrating time to develop a problem. We're at 99,900 miles.
I went to fill up the gas (we were at one bar) and got about $0.30 in before the pump clicked off.
I tried again, and got just about as far.
I tried three different pumps at two stations before deciding the problem was with the car and not the pumps.
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer and a few days ago it wouldn't start, it just clicked and the lights flashed. I put it on a charger overnight and it started right up. I took it to Autozone and he tested the starter, alternator and battery and said everything was green. It was fine until yesterday when I started it up and it ran a self test and gave me:
Ignition Key B
Serial # 00075194
Part # 4L2T-10849-CK
Diagnostic Trouble Code : 9318,9352 and D900
I looked through my manuals and can't find anything with codes. My friend says batteries don't last long in Florida, I have only been here a year from Michigan. I bought the truck in 2008 and have never replaced the battery. The guy at Autozone was reluctant to sell me a battery because he didn't think I needed one. I have never had any problems with this vehicle.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe and every time after I pump gas into it it will not start. I try to start it five to six times and it finally starts but chugs and stalls unless I pump the gas. This lasts until I've driven for a few minutes.
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I have a 2004 Elantra and recently every time I pump gas, the car doesn't want to start without pumping/hold down the gas pedal. Why is it doing this?
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I have a 2006 vw Jetta and it runs great. It started out just when I would get gas the car wouldn't start I would have to turn the key and put my foot on the gas for it to start (starts pretty much the first time I do this) but recently it has done this three random times when I didn't fill up. Also my check engine light is on. What this problem could be?
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Have 2000 V70 station wagon, non turbo. After filling it with gas it start only after pumping the gas pedal repeatedly. Than runs rough for 30seconds or so. Than runs great till the next fill up. Removing the gas cap doesn't cause the same problem. CEL is on. Code says gas/vapor recovery system has a leak.
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I have a 2007 GX and these lights have been coming on. I have a hard time shifting out of park. I replaced the gas cap.
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I have a 2.0 IV 5sd
Today it won't start, and there is not any smell of gas if I pump the throttle. How long to fuel pumps last?
Should I just replace it? I have to admit, nothing has gone wrong with this car since it was new!!!!!
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I have a 1993 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1 that decided it wasn't going to start one day. The night before it ran perfectly fine with no issues. When I would turn the key to start it, it acted like the battery was not charged. It didn't click or make any sounds. Tried to charge the battery and it wouldn't hold, so went and bought a new one. Got it hooked up and tried to start it again, and nothing.
A friend came over and tried to check the starter by trying to start it directly from under the car while the key was on. The starter clicked but the car didn't come on. He also checked the alternator and it was fine. He then went and checked to see if the fly wheel would turn, the one on the right side of the car with the bolt. It was locked solid. He tried to say that meant the engine was gone on it.
I don't know. I do know I have had to replace the timing chain on it years ago. The fuel pump and all that was replaced a year ago. It keeps bugging me that it's something else and not the engine being gone in it. I have also had the ignition replaced a while back as well when the previous one shorted out. What is possibly the cause and hoping beyond hope that it's not the engine? I am the second owner and it has 188k original miles on it and it's nearly 25 years old. The fact that it does the same thing with a new battery tells me it's more electrical than mechanical wise.
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1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
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Its a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
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Lately my car takes 2-3 cranks before it starts and I'm thinking it could be my fuel pump. There were a few times recently it took like 8 cranks to start. How to test fuel flow to see if it has issue? Also, could a old battery cause this issue?
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1979 ford f-150, 460 w/ 4bbl. Carb recently rebuilt by professional, but on cold mornings (in particular) runs rough even after a little warm (just like me), like the choke isn't clicked or clacked (couldn't resist) off. Can the choke flap and mechanism be gunked up, needs some cleaner applied?
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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Was driving normal and my 2004 r32 died. It felt just like it ran out of gas. Fuel pump was not making any noise. I replaced fuel pump relay and now i can here the fuel pump making noise. Pulled the fuel pump line off and fuel is coming out the line. So now i checked for spark and have none. I have 12 volts at the coils. I ohmed out the crank sensor and have .777 k ohms. I also checked codes with generic snap-on scanner and found no codes.
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99 lumina. Ac was not working. I added a few oz's and the compressor clicked on but cooling fans were not running. After 10 min of idling the fans did come on but went off after 1-2 minutes. It seemed like they were responding to coolant temp more than ac pressure. Do the fans run when the hi pressure rises to a certain point where the computer will turn on fans?
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