Golf/GTI VI :: Front Subframe Hits The Ground
Jul 10, 2015
Car is on airlift slam xl and on a set of bbs style 5's 17x8 et20 with 195/40 all around. problem is the front subframe hits the ground already before it completely airs out so i got some front tires still showing in the front.
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Have this issue when creeping forward or backward. If I did not know better I would think that I had a broken motor mount. When I creep forward or backward I can feel and hear the entire front subframe shutter just a little. It gets a little worst when everything is warmed up.
If you have had this, what did the dealer or you do to resolve? Until now I have decided to just deal with it. I have about 9k on the clock.
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I have a 2001 hyundai santa fe v6 all wheel drive the car is actually my wifes car and she likes it however I have recently noticed some significant rust on the front subframe where the the lower control arm attaches my question is is there or is there not a recall for this again 2001 v6 awd salt belt car ohio to be exact again.
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So I'm coming from the MK5, MK6, & CC/B6 Passat world. On those cars, they were notorious for having the front subframe "clunk" noise. The suframe would shift back & forth, creating a "clunk." This was VW's fix: [URL] ....
Anyways....I've noticed this about 5 times now I'm on my '13 Passat V6.....when I go to back up into a parking spot. And that's the ONLY time it's done it too.
Going from Drive, I put it into Reverse and then turn the wheel a little (NOT even all the way) and hear a "pop" or creak/clunk....definitely from the front. So my guess is that it's the subframe shifting. Only 400 miles on the car too, btw.
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I was under my car the other day and i noticed this dent in the rear of the subframe, just in front of the passenger side rear wheel. I didn't see damage anywhere else. Is this something I should be concerned about?
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I know its normal that the rear subframe is not centered. mine right side is off by like 5mm. is this within the norm or is way too off? I am running 20mm spacers for the rear and I have to switch the right to 15mm to make them somehow centered. What can be done to fix this properly?
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So I've been chasing this subframe clunk for some time now and have hit a wall on what I can do to stop it. Order of "fixes" :
-retroque bolts
-buy install audi bolts
-buy install TyrolSport kit
-replace every main subframe bolt with ARP bolts
Every time the clunk kept getting quieter or nonexistent but then someone comes back. Like right now I have the subframe collars installed and ALL 6 bolts are ARP. Clunk was gone for about a month and now its back, quiet but still driving me nuts.
What I can do? My next try is new strut tower bushings and bearings as people say that can cause a clunk. just weird how I will mess with the subframe and noise will go away then slowly come back, making me think its not the bushings. It appears to come from passenger side but anything is possible.
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06 Sonata GLS V-6 ... While driving and you hit a dip in the road I get a clunk. It only happens when the tire has to drop suddenly. When it bumps up it's quiet. I live 1 1/2 hours from a reputable repair place, over 2 1/2 hours from a Hyundai dealer.
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I've got a 2000 Accord. I recently started hearing and feeling a hard knocking/clunking noise at the front-center of the car during the correct after a left turn. My trustworthy mechanic told me the subframe is rusted out on the right side and that it isn't safe to drive until the subframe is replaced (he also said he's seen several of these this last year). He suggested that the cause is that the hose leading away or down from the air conditioner is too short, and leaks directly onto the subframe. There is no recall on this problem currently. I've done some Internet research and there is some buzz about this, but not as much as I was hoping for.
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I just had a new downpipe installed and now I am getting a horrible scrapping noise when coming off a dead stop. I got under the car and looks like the downpipe is touching subframe heat shield. My question is should i take it back and have them make some clearance or is there a quicker solution. New downpipe and subframe heat shield.
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After installing the lift on my 6.2 F250 I ran into the well known issue where the front drive shaft hits the catalytic converter. The two options I was told that I had was to weld in a slight jog into the exhaust guts to go around the cat or to get a smaller diameter drive shaft... I had the truck down at my local exhaust shop to have a new cat back system installed and I had the exhaust guy throw in his .02 about what to do.
He came up with a super easy/obvious fix. When the left and right exhaust meet up before the collector there is a welded brace that secures both sides together. He cut about .5" out of it and loosened the flanges and shifted the exhaust over. Welded the brace back up... Works perfect.
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I just noticed yesterday when the turbo starts to spool up I'm hearing a whining sound as it hits boost. It happens in every gear and under all load conditions, from when I'm cursing around to WOT. I've had Stage 3 installed for a little over 20,000 miles now and this is the first issue I've had. It still pulls just as hard and I'm not throwing any codes, but it is a weird sound I've never heard before.
It also doesn't matter if the car is hot or cold, the sound is still there. I'm not blowing any kind of smoke or burning any oil. What can cause something like that?
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My bumper is moving when my ex isn't parked on flat ground. Almost like the frame is twisting. Enough that it shifted up and cracked my grill. What could be going on? I didn't snap a pic but I'll try to get one. Get back on flat ground and it relaxes back to where it should be, flat and level.
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Tomorrow I'm taking my car in to have them look at my transmission. I started noticing that whenever I put the car in first, it almost feels like the front tires are skipping off the ground. It does the same thing when I put it in second. At first, I thought it might have been caused by my 18" rims, so I switched over to the stock wheels. Same crap.
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I have a 02 passat 1.8t FWD, I jacked up the driver side front wheel (with all other three wheels on the ground), and tried to rotate the wheel front side to side, I notice that the wheel actually rotates quite a bit. I wonder what might be causing this problem. I assume that when the car is parked and all other three wheels are on the ground, I am not supposed to be able to rotate the wheel at all.
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I'm trying to figure out how much of my front end I need to rebuild. 130,000 mi on the truck. About 1/2 of those miles are off road. 2008 F350 FX4. Stock. Original front wheel bearing unit and hubs. I was under the truck today and before I put it on jacks I decided to see how much play was in the front end components.
I noticed when checking out the passenger side front axle at the u-joint that I was able to spin the whole u-joint and bearing with the wheels still on the ground. I wasn't able to do the same for the driver's side. Both hubs were set to auto although I know that the ESOF doesn't work. Is this normal? Am I supposed to be able to spin the axle with the wheels on the ground?
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Going to ask what is likely a dumb question........ Just had my bulbs and ballast replaced under warranty and tonight was the first time I drove at dark and they seemed like they were pointed at the ground. I couldnt see more than what seemed like 20 feet in front of me(might be a slight exaggeration but not alot really), driver was worse than the passenger by a bit.
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I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
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Well my car is crapping out lately,
I put a new steering rack in my mk4 1.8t jetta about a week before I parked it for winter. I went out to the garage yesterday and noticed a pool of PS fluid on the ground, I located one very small leak from the bottom banjo bolt on the rack (needs new crush washers, Was in a rush and didn't have time to pick new ones up :bang head: ).
But the part that confuses me is there is a puddle on/under the passenger side subframe, the rack boot appears to be dry, and I don't believe the new rack is faulty, they are supposed to be all tested and approved before reaching the buyer. and when I turn the car on I can't see a leak anywhere even with the wheel off and a decent view of the rack.
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I have a slight problem, my subframe has shifted to the right about an inch. Now, the problem with that is that I need it moved back into place. How to get this work done. I'm assuming maybe an alignment shop, but idk.
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2007 Passat 2.0T, 48,000 miles
Essentially, I get a clunky/pop/crinkle sound from beneath my feet in the driver's side footwell. This sound/feel occurs when I either get back on the gas after slowing down but before the car fully stops or if I take my foot suddenly off the accelerator without touching the brake.
VW told me after three tries that the "noise is from the driveline changing directions, making some noise because loads are changing on the driveline when going from deceleration to acceleration" and that it was normal.
I have seen some posts about the subframe bolts either being faulty or worn on this site and other VW sites...
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