Golf/GTI VI :: Frame Notch Went Smooth / Axle Is Dangerously Close To Turbo Outlet
Mar 16, 2014
Frame notch went smooth, we pulled the bag and disconnected the axle from the hub and just pulled everything out of the way. When we reassembled everything, the wheel now pokes 3/4-1 inch more than it did before. We pulled the axle back out and realigned it and made sure it seated properly and messed with the strut and its bolt to make sure there was no play or anything (it was reinstalled with the same orientation), but nothing seemed to change it. Could just disconnecting those two things cause the camber to go out of whack that badly? When installing the bags I didn't run into this issue and the camber was barely even off when I got it aligned. Trying to find out what could possibly cause it to get that far off. When I installed the bags the camber and toe barely even changed.
Also, I can't even air out all the way now because the wheels were a perfect fit before, and now they poke too much... but with 17 psi in the right front bag, the axle is dangerously close to the turbo outlet. Seems to feel like barely a business card could fit between the two. The frame notch was done correctly and was the 5th one my buddy has done.
1912298_10201505446825691_1396899283_n by Chadillac910, on Flickr
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I am about to install my coils and I just wanted to ask what is the lowest drop you can have without having to notch the frame for the axle? I have read most of you guys bang your axle on your frame and dent it or just mark it up but would 23.5" ftg be a problem for daily driving?
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I just replaced the turbo to manifold gasket and bolts but the but bolt closest to the engine keeps backing out.. i cnt seem to find a tool that can tighten all the way..
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Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
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I have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
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Over the past few months I've been hearing a popping sound from under my seat when I move a certain way and figured it was just the cold or another new sound well today I found out it was the seat frame mount and it finally snapped, pictures to follow.
Went to the dealer they quoted part/labor is gonna be around $1000 so I took it to a friends shop to see if he can weld it or if it's too far gone, should be getting it fixed this week, for now it's zip ties and really cautious driving.
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I am trying to take my stock headers and flex pipe out, I have removed the all the bolts but cant seem to get the pipes out between small space between the subframe and the firewall. how to drop the subframe to get these pipes out?
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Where i can get my hands on a Fukengruven license plate frame?
Any pics of the Platypus tow hook mount on their car?
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So my r32 is the first DSG car I've owned. Been about over a year now and the gear change from 2 to 3 is not rough, but I can feel it. Almost like a bad dogbone mount...but only up shifting from 2-3. It does always happen. There are a lots of factors that come into play, throttle input, load, rpm, whether spark cut kicks in or not. DSG fluid is changed every 30k, UM engine/DSG combo. HPA puck.
The second issue happens much less frequently. Under heavy load, 2500-3200 rpm, in 3rd or 4th gear, the following upshift to 4th or 5th does something very strange. For some reason, when spark cut kicks in a too low an rpm in too high of a gear it engages the next gear then very quickly disengages and engages again. Almost as if it were another upshift.
VCDS doesn't allow me to access the PIDS for each individual shift solenoid, or the metering valve. Neither does the factory scan tool. I've been trying to catch the strange clutch activity in a log to post but every time I take my computer in the car and log the clutch activity it behaves normally.
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I've been noticing that when I brake more responsively, I feel a bump/notch right before a complete stop. It feels like something that has to do with the transmission.
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So the 12V power outlet (the one up front by ashtray) in my MK4 Jetta is not working anymore. There was a penny stuck in there and my dumb friend tried ramming his phone charging in anyways and it sparked and now won't work even though I got the penny out. I already checked and replaced fuse 41 and it did not do anything or look blown. Now, the fuse area is looks pretty gross and I'm going to remove it and clean it, but do you think there's maybe a short or something to do with ground since it sparked like that?
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I have a 2007 Prius with just under 83,000 miles on it. I've always gotten in the mid to low 40s in mpg, no matter how I drive. It's lower in the winter & higher in the summer. Over the past year or so, the gas tank seems to hold increasingly less gas. With one notch left on the fuel gauge, it only takes about 6 gallons to 'fill' up. Most recent mpg shows about 45, but I was down to one notch after only 263 miles. I recently replaced both the hybrid and the auxiliary batteries. So, what my issue is?!?!?
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Every now and then when I slow down the temp gauge drops about 1 notch below its normal 200 reading. It's nerver done this before. Car runs great and heat is strong. Is this a sign of a failing thermostat? If so, where is the thermostat located, is it hard to replace, and should I get OEM or is OTC ok? Car has 89K on it.
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Do we suffer from this clunking noise as well? I know I have rattles and things that make noise over bumps and humps in the road. But is this what I hear?
[URL] .....
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It made a spark too. How to fish out the penny and what fuse I need to replace?
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I have just this past week noticed that my rev needle is not smooth when coming down the range! It shudders and is annoying in that way that now i have seen it I cannot un see it!!
It is very smooth on the way up under acceleration.
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I've just got my 2015 GTI a few months. I'm driving manual with my GTI daily commute to work, getting along well. However sometimes I'll be struggling with the manual when approving a corner or a stop, and I'm not having a smooth up shift with 3rd and 4th gear (odd eh? most of the people will have difficulties starting up but since I've been taught so I'm fine...)
To be more specific:
1. Just want to know what REV usually will be done? e.g. 3rd gear with decent speed, would you maintain it until it revs up to 3k? or would you up shift when passing 2k+? Usually I'm doing the latter so I guess this is why I'm having a sluggish/jerky up shift with 3rd and 4th gear. And would you still put on a little bit gas when engaging with 3rd and 4th gear?
2. What to do when approaching stop? Assuming you don't have enough distance to down shift each gear. EITHER: Break with the current gear and clutch in until it reach 1k rev and complete stop; OR: down shift at least once to a lower gear and break until complete stop?
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From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
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Today I was driving on the freeway and a noticed my cars exhaust burbles way more than it used to, like it used to do it at around 1500 rpm when I am decelerating or between shifts, now it always does it when I decelerate like there is no smooth decelerating sound I used to have its just all crackle and burble, I do have an exhaust leak but I've had it since I did my down pipe and it was fine before, I've ordered an oem one and ill slap it on when im doing my fmic install, i did replace all coilpacks yesterday so maybe I did it wrong if its even possible to do that wrong. And also my windshield has so many nicks in it like it looks like a lot of dirt on the windshield, it looks like it'll wipe off but it doesn't there's no cracks just tiny dings all over the windshield.
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VW GTI 1.8T 5 speed.
So I've blown the differential on my transmission, it's been blown for a little while. I have basically no transmission fluid at all.
Question: Why is the car still driving normally?
Some time ago I was getting a transmission fluid flush and change, my gear shifter was a bit stiff before the change and after changing the fluid it became smoother.
According to my mechanic that would be the result of changing the fluid.
Question: So then why is my gear shifter completely smooth without any transmission fluid at all and a blown differential?
Question: what will happen if I leave it like this? I'm assuming it will eventually seize up?
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I noticed a month ago that my transmission didn't feel as smooth whenever I shifted. It would come and go, it'd feel smooth and then out of nowhere it wouldn't be smooth again. It feels similar to when you sit inside a car when it's off and you move the shifter from gear to gear (a nonsmooth feeling). So this Monday I decided to empty out a bit of transmission fluid and add some transmission additive. I drove around and it did feel much smoother. However, it does not feel as smooth as it has always felt. The car runs perfect, it just comes down to my personal preference in smoothness.
Mk4 GTI 1.8t 2003
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