Golf/GTI VI :: Found Stain On Floor, Might Be Coolant Leak
Mar 20, 2012
Yesterday I noticed nice fresh pink stain on fresh new concrete after a 20 minute ride, after coming back to the car an hour later. When I open the hood you there was distinct smell of wetness and dampness. I'm at 16k. Also visible at the bottom, under the pulleys dried stain on the plastic shroud. The coolant level is about quarter of an inch below min.
Furthermore I noticed oil build up around plastic intake tube just next to the firewall. So far no CEL and other issues, except my compartment lid in the middle console refusing to close and fully open.
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Maybe I've been having too much fun in the rain... I've recently noticed an odd smell in the car and found a small wet spot underneath the passenger front floor mat, only to be followed by same in the rear passenger floor mat. I was hoping it won't happen again, but I found myself with the wet floor few weeks later after the rain.
I first thought it may be the bike rack (which I have posted in the earlier month) but seeing the location and occurence, it couldn't be from the rack. It was always the underneath the center of the freaking floor mat.
My R is at the dealer since yesterday, getting a full physical.. They're even talking about removing the headliner to make sure there is no internal leak from the roof.
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2007 Pilot leaks coolant but, mechanic can not find the leak anywhere including the head gasket. He was a certified Honda mechanic.
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89 3.0L - I seem to loose a little bit of coolant every time I drive maybe like 1/2 a pint?
I checked every connection - engine running, and even waited to make sure the t-stat was opening, and closed, etc (maybe it was the top hose, nope)
I did replace the radiator a couple of years ago, and had the problem ever since I did that, but at the same time, I also replaced the T-Stat with a 165 degree, since she was starting to run a bit on the hot side, even with the new water pump and radiator I did... on a cool day, it would run at the middle of the gauge with a 190 degree... and with AC on, hills and 95 degree days, it would be pushing upwards of 3/4 of the way on the gauge...
Could the 165 degree therm stat be somehow causing a 13 lb cap to not function properly? I replaced the original with a Stant... but Im thinking I should get a new Motorcraft OEM cap, since the other one lasted 20 years!
I kept the old radiator - love it - "wow real brass/copper in there!" it was still fine when I pulled it, but had a hairline crack right below the top hose area...
Anyways, pressure tests revel nothing, I see no bubbles or anything with the engine idling, cap off
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I always check the fluids, every 2 weeks or so just to make sure everything is fine, yesterday I found oil inside coolant reservoir.
The last oil change was performed 2 weeks ago and the oil that came out of the engine looked normal to me, no coolant in it.
I want to keep this car because is more than a car for me, I have a lot of plans to do with it but damm it getting annoying.
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I noticed the coolant was a little low in the reservoir. Took a look at the water pump and noticed a light coolant stain around it. It is a V6 with only 55,000 miles. Second owner, so no warranty. It seems a little unusual to have it start to go so soon, but it is what it is. I will put in a new one and change the belt while I am at it. What brand pump and coolant to use? Are there any good threads on changing a water pump, or is it pretty straight forward?
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Our Daughter has added a 3rd Jetta to the family, A 2002 2.0 5 Sp with 123K. Runs like a top...looks great and figured a deal @ $2300... The man used it as a daily driver with about 3 mile run to work.... Oil was black, a little low, and the white sludge on the cap....Oil changed with synthetic (not sure what he was using) added thermostat and temp sensor to fix the cold running codes...and 2000K miles without a flaw.....
Until her oil light flashes and chimes....and she is 2 qts low....
Not a single indication of a leak found, overflow tank is clean, no smoke and the exhaust pipe appears normal, so I'm scratching my head now....
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I have an 09 screw, 4.6 3v, 3.55, 2wd. Last week, I noticed on the driveway a drip and run stain under the truck. I dismissed it as ac runoff. But it remained and lengthened. I got under it yesterday, and the tranny crossmember has fluid on it. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. There was no drip either, and the truck was relatively cool. Of course there is no tranny fluid dipstick to check and the tranny pan is intact. It seems to be behind the transmission towards the driveshaft.
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I have a 24v Vr6, a couple days ago i spotted some water on my garage floor. I looked in the engine bay and I saw some coolant on this metal can looking piece, it's on the passenger side of the car to the left of the headlight door and a couple inches down. I also looked all the way at the bottom of the engine bay on on the plastic shield there is quite a bit of coolant that has leaked onto there.
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Came out of a turn, went to grab third, clutch went to the floor and didn't come back. Stopped, pumped pedal for a bit, managed to get into first and milked it home. There's nothing leaking, but fluid level was low. I topped fluid, pumped pedal and bled the block at the tranny, pressure came up and I was able to engage gears. Pulled into garage and same issue, no pressure and clutch won't disengage. Pedal is soft. I'm thinking I managed to get some air in the system. Question is if the slave failed, wouldn't I have a leak at the bell housing?
Do I have to drop the tranny to bleed the slave? Also, my stock clutch on APR stage 1 was doing ok before this issue. There was chatter and/or other noises in the clutch at take off but no real issue with slipping. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and replace the clutch. I'll be dropping the trans on a rack in my friends shop.
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I have fixed all draining issues, sunroof, fender liners... However I am still trickling water into the drivers side floor pan. I can't see the source.
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I have a 2005 Treg V6. I took it in last week for the 20K check up. After having the vehicle all day I was told they have found coolant in the cylinder. I have been told it is either a warped head or a head gasket issue. This sounds serious.....never had this kind of issue with my many VW's over the past 10 plus years....should I be worried about more trouble down the future? I guess I am just not keen on VW technician ripping parts of the engine apart and putting it back together..
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Ive been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
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Seems like since I did the first oil filter change it seemed very hard to get off oil filter. Today I did about the 5th filter change and it was harder than the last time. Thought i was going to break something. I do snug it up so there is no gap between the engine block and top of filter canister. Should I back it off a turn or 2 and check for leaks, maybe that is what that retainer clip is for near the top of the filter canister to stop it from coming undone so you don't have to snug it up?
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I have a 2010 VW Beetle. I did not use my car during the Christmas holiday and when I came back home I got 4 flat tires. Then I had it towed to the mechanic but they said they didn't find any leaks or punctures in any of the tires and it was just because the freezing cold weather. After 2 weeks I had flat tires again and I went to another mechanic, they told me the same thing but a few days later the low tire pressure light keeps showing on the dashboard and the tires become pretty flat every other day (about 15 psi). This is really bothering me because I have to go to the gas station to put air in the tire everyday.
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Yesterday my car threw a CEL for the first time; I am currently APR stage II. Ran the code and came up with P2400. Code cleared, but after 1 cycle it appeared again.
Interestingly, on my way to a cookout today the car started yelling at me about low coolant. I pulled over and checked but didn't see any initial signs of leakage (was raining at the time though...). Continued to my destination and topped off with distilled H2O in lieu of G12 since I didn't have any immediately available. Once I made it back home, checked the reservoir again and saw that the level had dropped (probably ~ 1/2 cup or so). This time, I could see liquid on the belly pan, then on my driveway...
It looks like the P2400 code is indicating an issue in the leak detection pump circuit. Any chance that the coolant leak and P2400 code are related (leak shorted something out...??? I should mention I am not super familiar with the plumbing for the evap system in this car) or am I really this unlucky.
Issues with the car since purchase:
- Replaced clutch (stock would not hold stage 1 torque...)
- Wiring for radiator fan came loose, fans stopped working (took ~3 weeks to resolve due to resulting ECU issues...)
- ECU solder joint (EVAP circuit) damaged during re-flash after flashing to stock for dealer to address radiator fan issue...
- P2400 CEL
- Coolant Leak
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Maybe I am running out of my beginner's luck. Recently when I did the second oil change at 10K miles, I placed the drain pan without taking into account the fact that the oil drains partially sideways. The oil stream ended up splashing off the edge of the drain pan and made a mess. Then I did not withdraw my hand fast enough when unscrewing the oil filter and allowed a stream of oil running down my arm and staining my new shirt. The I filled the new oil filter too full and had one more spill when installing it.
About two weeks later I found there was a very thin coat of oil at the bottom of the oil filter but no drips either on the filter or on the ground. I checked the oil level and it was the same as before. I checked the filter tightness with a torque wrench and it was also as tight as before. I wiped the bottom of the filter clean with paper towel. Now about another two weeks passed and a corner of the bottom of the filter is coated with oil again.
I am thinking maybe it was just the spilled oil gradually making its way from the (outside) top of the filter to the bottom? If there is a leak then I should get at least some drips, not just a thin film every two weeks, right? I also thought about untightening the filter and then tighten it again but I was afraid of large amount of oil coming out, would it? Also I had carefully checked the o-ring and wiped the flange clean before installing the filter and there are so many threads to screw the filter on - it is hard to imaging the filter would not seat correctly.
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Yesterday after getting to work i noticed a few drips from under the front of the car, at first i shrugged it off thinking maybe it was condensation or whatever. After coming back to my car about 5 hours later it had made a good sized puddle under the car and i knew something wasn't right. Well on my lunch i got under it and collected the liquid only to find that it was coolant. To make matters worse on the drive home my temp gauge would go to operating temp then drastically drop to almost cold temp.. weird. And last but not least when i parked the car at home i noticed that the cooling fans did not stay on after the car was off, since it was about 95deg this seemed wrong. Took the car to the dealer this morning and I'm hoping its just a loose pipe or something little and not anything that will keep it in the shop for a long time. Car is completely stock except for cat back exhaust, 12,000 miles on the odo.
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So, I've had the car for a grand total of six days. Was just showing off what's under the hood to a coworker when I noticed droplets of pink and the coolant tank is almost at minimum. Leaking already? Calling the dealer now...I'm gonna have Mark 4 flashbacks/PTSD if this is a preview of coming attractions.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan. I found a small leak in my fuel rail. Can I buy a repair kit for this or do I need to find a new fuel rail? If so where to find a rail for a van this old?
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02 Jetta 2.0L that I changed the thermostat. o-ring, and cover on when I first got the car about a year and a half ago.
I see dry g12 coming out from behind the cover and my coolant bulb had dipped quite a bit in recent weeks requiring a refill. What is most likely the problem here in such a short period of time? I've only put like 10k miles on the car in that period. O-ring couldn't have seated wrong because wouldn't the problem have been apparent immediately back when I did the job? Maybe I need to re-torque the cover? Cracked cover?
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