Golf/GTI VI :: Fog Light Access Panel Coming Off
Feb 4, 2010
I have a 2010 4Dr GTI and have a strange and simple problem. About a week ago when I was washing my car I noticed I was missing the small oval cover that is in the wheel well that gives you access to the fog light bulbs etc. I had never noticed if they were ever there, but remembered seeing them in a picture here on the vortex.
When I walked around to the other side to clean the other wheel I noticed that that cover on the other side was also missing. I thought I had them before because I think I would have noticed a gaping fist sized hole in my finder liner, but the chances of them both coming out seemed improbable so I just figured I wasn't as observative as I thought I was.
I called the dealer and ordered two new covers, one for each side. A few days later they came in, I picked them up, and put them in. They were cheap enough and it was easier than bringing the car in for service. After I put them both in I decided to removed one just to see how snug they fit. They fit fairly tightly and I went on to think that they just did not come with the car. Now 3 days later both pieces are gone again!
In the last three days my car has been driven about 150miles. Mostly city driving no speeds higher than about 55. I do not think they are being blown or sucked out by pressure. We have some of the worst streets in the country down here in New Orleans but I don't think the bumps could shake it loose. I checked underneath my front bumper to make sure I had not hit a dip hard and scraped and I have not. the whole under-tray etc is in immaculate shape still.
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The horn on my 2010 golf recently went out, so I'm thinking that one of two things happened. Before the horn went out completely, one tone died, then about two months later it stopped working completely. When I press the horn, I hear a click coming from the dash. So, I think it's either a bad relay or both horns went out. How likely is it that both horns go out within a few months of each other?
Anyway, I bought a new horn relay, but how to access the relay panel located in the dash. How to remove the dash sections, or is there a good write up?
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getting access to the back of the rear quarter panel for paintless dent repair? This is for a 2 door 2012 Golf 2.5L.
I've heard from a few people that there's likely some sort of access point for this car but I haven't gotten any specifics. I'd rather not have the PDR guy drill a hole in the wheel well for the needed access.
I do see what looks like factory hole with rubber cover behind where the door closes (lower part) ..
Here's the location of the dent (dent itself is not visible at this resolution, but it's right at the point of the crease):
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If the driver's side fender liner is supposed to have an access panel cover? I was swapping out my side markers today and noticed that my passenger's side has one but not the driver's side. Didn't think to check for something like that during delivery although from looking at the one from the passenger's side, it doesn't seem hard to believe that it could have fallen out due to spirited driving.
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I don't see how the panel below the steering wheel opens to access the ODB port to try out Carista. I played around with the little plastic piece that sticks out and tugged without luck. I could find any YouTube videos either.
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95 850... What is the magic trick to getting access to the bottom section of the fuse panel under the hood. I have removed the 4 torx on the black cover, then the 3 gold torx, then the screws holding down the incoming cable bunches. But no matter how hard I try I can only pull the white fuse panel up a certain amount, I can get it to pivot on the lower fuse tray, but can not seem to be able to figure out how to either pull the lot or disconnect the top part from the bottom part - so as to move the top part out the way! There just does not seem enough give in the wires....
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How to access the fuse panel inside car under drivers side can't seem to get it open
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How do I remove the passenger side rear door panel to gain access to the bottom of the window to jam it in the closed position, 2004 Jeep GC. Window regulator cable broke, window slid down, I pushed the window up & shimmed it with a door stop to keep it up. Replacing the regulator & cable is very expensive & I don't care if the window works or not. I removed a screw from behind the inside door handle & from the grip cup (used to close the door) & pulled the top of the panel about 2 inches away from the door. It appears that something beside the snap-in clips is preventing the rest of the panel from popping off.
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I've noticed this sound coming from the instrument panel area for a while now. It comes and goes, sometimes starts in the middle of driving, sometimes starts right when I start the car. It almost sounds like I have the turn signal on, but that's not it. There isn't much to see - the video is mainly so you can hear the sound.
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One thing I noticed when I was checking out the R is the lever came off rather easy.
I put it back on. This happened on both sides.
Is this normal? Would I want to Super Glue it?
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I'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
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Getting excessive vibration coming from the top of the glove box panel and also from the passenger seat? I took it to the dealer because it was making a vibration noise, but they fixed the noise, but the vibration continues. What it might be?
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The parking lights, instrument panel, and climate control lights are on the same circuit it seems, and they don't want to come on right away when I turn the switch. I've checked all the fuses, and wires that I can see, I cant seem to come up with anything other than replacing the switch in the steering column.
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Still trying to track down my electrical issues. While poking around in the engine compartment near the fuse panel by firewall - i heard a clicking sound coming from the two cylinders near the fuse panel.
They are cylinders - side by side - about 1 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches tall - with electrical connections and either fuel or vacuum lines attached. What are these? Some sort of solenoids? Are they part of the EVAP system?
How long should they continue to "click" after the car is turned off? Mine kept going for a half hour. I then disconnected the left side battery and it stopped. 5 hours later after fully charging the battery I hooked it up again - and the clicking came back. Is this normal or could it be a source of my battery drain?.
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In my mom's prius V, on the front passenger seat, under where you put your legs, the plastic panel is like coming off, and when i am sitting in it, i can feel the panel hitting my feet. I don't know exactly how to put the panel back together. Also, Whenever I drive her Prius around I am always tempted to put it into reverse when I am driving around normally. I know I won't do it, but I just feel tempted too. What would happen if somebody actually put it into reverse while I am driving at high speeds? would it just not allow the car to switch gears or whatever? I was going like 3mph and switched into reverse once, car just slowed to a stop.
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Well I went to go to home depot and the key turned and my theft light started blinking and I hear a clicking noise coming from my fuse panel. By the way this is on a 2000 7.3l 4x4 limited. I found what was clicking (see picture) it is the second relay down, the one with the chipped plastic. My question is is this a relay I can replace or is it part of the fuse box? Where I can get a replacement? This is my daily driver so I need to fix this ASAP.
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I had the strangest thing happen today. I started my 2004 TB EXT at the auto parts store (getting brake pads for my grand am), and a strange thumping started coming from the pass-side rear. I got out and popped the hatch. Sounded like it was coming from trim panel under rear window. I held my boot against the tailpipe, thinking maybe I broke a muffler mount; didn't work. Figured I'd try getting it home before something let loose. Sound went away about 100 ft down the road. I'm guessing it was something electrical.
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Yesterday my wife went out to go somewhere and just got a click when she tried to start the X. I went home and thought it may be a weak battery and charged it up but same thing. The "click" is coming from just behind the fuse panel on the driver's side in the cab. When I turn the key to the ignition position some of the smaller lights on the dash turn off too, like the door ajar light etc, and then when I release the key they turn back on (don't know if that's normal or not, haven't really payed that much attention while starting).
2000 V10 Limited, K&N Filter, Rancho RS9000's
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I bought a new 2014 RX450H in late December of 2013. The car has 5000 mikes on it now and today when cleaning the car, I noticed (hard to believe but true) 3 separate rust spots coming through the finish on the back hatch panel. I know I need to contact the dealer, but should I be screaming for a new body panel or just accept the fact the my new car has to be repainted? This is the 4th RX I have had. Never ever had a problem before.
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I have a 1999 f-150 and am having a problem that I cannot pin down . After starting the truck and running it for 10 min or so I shut it off and it will not restart again for approx. 3-4 hrs . When you turn the key there is a clicking noise coming from behind the fuse panel . Also the truck will not start if temp outside rises above 80 degrees . Is there a replaceable relay under there or is it the computer module ? Battery is new .
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla. It's out of warranty. And it has about 40k Miles.
Today, while driving home, I smelled smoke/burning and it's definitely coming from the control panel on the driver side (where are the locks and window buttons are). There was smoking coming out of that control panel.
To me, this sounds like something a dealership should really fix since those control panels are usually so unique to the maker and model? But I could be wrong, since I'm terrible with cars.
Is there a chance a recall would cover this? I never got a letter, but I found this on the internet: [URL] ....
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