Six speed GTI Manual for those that dont know its a 2.0 TSI. Fifth gear grinds all day long when i downshift or upshift. They have given me a service car to drive around in, until its fixed. 25k on the OD and a 5 year mechanical warranty, i have 2 years left on the rest. Third gear doesn't go in easily, its like i miss third gear all the damn time, obviously its not right when the rpm's go above 3k.
View 18 RepliesTook my car to the dealer for it's 80K service and asked them to check the tranny because it's been slipping (hesitation) during upshift and occasionally banging into gear during downshift. I figured they would suggest the BG tranny fluid flush but got a call from the service advisor saying they found the fluid to smell burnt and it was black. 1999Pazzat V6...
View 8 Replies1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
Why the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
So i just noticed this issue the other day. If I downshift from 6th to 5th the car hesitates before it starts to accelerate, this only happens for 5th every other gear is fine. This only happens downshifting from 6th to 5th. What is going on?
-apr flash
-just rolled 56k
I bought a rebuilt trans from a fellow vortex member a little over a month ago. I had it installed and ever since then when I am getting on it going from second to third it grinds a little bit going into third gear. It only does this when i get on it, but when im just cruising its fine. Could the shift linkage just need aligned? Or what else could it be?
View 5 RepliesI have 2002 celica gts 2zzge with bad tranny 6 gear is gone and 2 second grinds. My question will be how can I fix this tranny for cheap or can I swap it with the regular 1zzge tranny or can I use the gears from the 1zzge and put them in the 2zzge.....
View 4 RepliesI have a 20th anniversary it grinds going into 3rd gear every time...
View 9 RepliesI have a 1998 Windstar which just stopped shifting from first to second or third. I still have 1st and Reverse gear but no 2nd or 3rd. Feels like vehicle goes to neutral.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 2.0 DOHC Manual transmission i just replaced the clutch bled the clutch no air in lines drove around the block grinds changing gears then pulled to my driveway and the clutch got stuck and did not want to disengage so had to turn off engine to prevent from hitting the house. There is a rattle in the gear box that's pretty loud the master and slave cylinder dont have any visible leaks even n the boot for the pin that pushes the clutch fork the pin seems to only move maybe an inch and the pedal is ver soft. in fact while driving it seemed it got softer even after i bled the clutch many times still seems to be soft.
View 7 RepliesI have a 5 speed 99 Jeep Wrangler and when the car is running, it's extremely hard to put the car into first gear from a standstill. However, once it's in gear, shifting is fairly normal but still offers a little resistance. I feel like I have to wiggle it into gear. When putting the car in reverse from a standstill, the gears grind terribly.
Once the car is off, shifting is still difficult until I put it in reverse. Somehow, this "fixes" the problem and everything shifts smooth as a dream until I start the engine and then it's a 50/50 shot until it eventually fails later on.
I have a 99 7.3 F350 with 5 speed manual with over 300,000 miles. Grinds bad shifting into 3rd, and nothing happens in 4th. I think it is a S5-47-ZF. Is a 6 speed manual comparable to bolt up to bell housing?
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2000 F-250 SuperDuty with the 5.4L V8, and a standard transmission and about 140k miles - just bought the truck several months ago. Trying to figure out what's wrong with either the transmission or the clutch. Here's the symptoms, any feedback is welcome:
1. If I shift too quickly into 5th from 4th, say 'pushing' from 4th to 5th directly, it grinds and chunks in every time.
2. If I shift slowly, 1-2-3, 4th into neutral, neutral and push right to line up with 5th, then into 5th, slight pause on each move, then it usually shifts into 5th silently and no problems ...but sometimes will grind just a tad.
3. If I shift from 4th into Neutral, leave it in neutral and let the clutch out then step on the clutch all the way and wait before shifting into 5th ...even if I wait several seconds (say 'close to 10 seconds'), it will grind every time ...a good grind that bugs me to do. I'm careful to avoid this.
4. Usually, if it grinds into 5th, I can shift down to 4th, let the clutch out and drive a short way and try again ...and it'll grind again. Best way to avoid grinding into 5th is to drive normally, and use the 1-2-3 'slight pause' method of shifting into 5th. This is what I do all the time, trying to make the tranny last as long as possible.
It's like the 5th gear synchro isn't working well, or perhaps the clutch is not fully disengaging? What's wrong? I wonder if the truck (haven't looked it up yet) has a hydraulic clutch and maybe the clutch is not fully disengaging ...pumping the clutch pedal sometimes seems to work, but most often doesn't. Sometimes, I have difficulty shifting back down into lower gears as well ... no grinding, but you have to double clutch just right to get it to go into gear (3rd, or 2nd).
Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
On occasion my 2001 Monte Carlo SS will sometimes upshift all the way to 4th gear when leaving a stop sign. Then it will lug & vibrate obviously from being in high gear at a low speed. I can pull over & shut car off for a minute then start it again & it will shift just fine like normal. Then randomly out of the blue it will do it again without any sort of pattern. I replaced the main computer but that didnt work.
View 1 RepliesEverything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
2001 Jetta 1.9 TDI that won't start! For the past few months, starting the car has been hit or miss. I started by changing the battery, later the starter, then later the glow plugs. Each item seemed to get it start. When I say "hit", the car started fine as long as it was plugged in when cold. And "miss", the car clicks or grinds with no start.
After I changed the glow plugs it didn't miss at all for a couple weeks (the outside weather has been getting warmer too). Then it started missing on and off, and now wont start at all.
Here is a video - the sound it makes during the second attempt (clicks then winds) has been common since not long after changing the starter. [URL] ..... The car is being boosted during the video.
Some extra information: about a month ago I notice the coolant was a little low (added less than a cup of G12), a few years back the car, had some half diesel and half gas ran through it. The car has 350,000 kms..
I've been experiencing some intermittent issues with my up-shift pedal not registering when driving in Manual mode.
Would a replacement paddle be required or a simple cleaning of the internal mechanism fix the issue? I don't have access to Vag-Com or I would have already pulled the codes.
I figure now is a good time to fix this issue as my Double Apex Pedals are on their way to me.
About 1500 miles on my GTI and I have been noticing on upshifts, just as I release the clutch, I get a short grunt from the transmission. It's very brief, but consistent in lower gears. it's not terribly loud (may not hear it with the radio on but definitely will with the radio off).
It doesn't seem to impact the drive at all so I'm not stressing about it but I will want it looked at if it poses a risk to the drivetrain... Never had anything like it with my last stick ('02 e46).