I got the car flashed yesterday to apr stage 1. Now it won't start and throwing a fault stabilize control error an wont start. I'm stuck in a bad way. Any tricks to get it to start and get home?
View 6 RepliesMy VAG-COM is down, so I haven't had the chance to scan and see what the code is that I'm assuming got stored, but here's what happened today:
Driving constant speed about 75mph with cruise control on, traveling on level ground. Road began to have a slight incline up a long gradual hill. EPC flashed and car dropped out of cruise control.
I manually accelerated up to speed again and reset CC. No further weirdness, but that's never happened to me before, and it's on a road I used to travel 6 days a week.
Flashed to 1.5 v8.1 91 and had no issues with flash. Then tried to start car and all warning lights on and no start. Flashed back to Performance Pack stock version and again no issues with flash, but same problem, warning lights and dead car. Disconnected battery and reconnected without any change.
View 21 RepliesI went outside and started my car yesterday morning and it was 20-25 degrees out and the car had a hard time turning over. Upon starting the dash computer read: Fault: Traction Control. Its a 14 GTI with about 1600 miles on it, could it have been not getting all 12 volts upon start up?
View 4 RepliesTook my battery out to install my boost gauge today... After putting it all back together; when I start the motor, the steering wheel type light and the stabilization control light stay on. Also on the MFD, it says "Fault: Stabilization Control".
As a side note, I can no longer re-set the tire pressure light as well... My dash is lit up like a friggin christmas tree.
Car started idling all weird this evening, rising and falling when at a stop light. Car APR Stg 2+. Found the fault code above. I changed the map back to stock and cleared the code and it still does it. I let the car sit for like 30 minutes and started it up again and it sounds even worse like it wants to stall. I did a few google searches and it seems that it could be a faulty PCV or throttle body. How should I proceed? I'm thinking change the PCV and if the problem is still there it's a potentially larger issue.
View 11 RepliesThe code the R threw was p0606 which is the Powertrain/ Engine control module? Where these components are in my R? Or how I can go about trouble shooting this problem?
View 9 RepliesI just got into my car with 49k miles and after I left the driveway the check engine light flashed, then went on solid as did the cruise control light. Meanwhile the car was shaking slightly. Its now parked in front of a neighbor's house. I re-tightened the gas cap and turned the car back on after I let it "rest". No improvement. Its shaking even in idle. I'm tempted to take to Autozone to have them read the check engine light code. But I'm afraid of making the problem worse by driving it. I recently got laid off and really didn't expect a car with so few miles to have any issues. Its a 2005 and I barely put 10k miles on it a year. (I'm the second owner and the car is out of warranty).
View 2 RepliesMy check engine light has came on and I received these error codes
PO441 : Evaporative emissions control system incorrect purge flow.
PO 455 : Evaporative emissions control system pressure leak-large leak.
PO 446 : Evaporative emissions control system vent control circuit fault.
Also only my driver side fan is working, may be separate issue?
I have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
As listed above I own a 98 Volkswagen Passat. It seems to run just fine for the most part, but if I push on the gas and let off I notice a slight sputter. The RPM's will drop to about 800RPM up to 1000RPM and back down again and it will eventually stabilize and idle fine. My only guess that I have so far that I read on a post somewhere is that the EGR Valve tends to get gunked up and stick. I will try to clean that off.
View 12 RepliesFault code (U0100 lost comm with ECM/PCM)
Car started a few weeks back. I let is sit while I ordered a new dash, it had a blow dash airbag. I replaced the dash, taking out the stereo and instrument cluster. I also replaced the battery with a new factory one.
Went to start the car and nothing happened, no cranking, the only thing I can hear is a single click from the starter. All the lights are on in the instrument panel.
Windows, sunroof dont work even in AUX power
Fuel pump does not prime
I checked the fuses, none were blown, checked the relays, all work.
OBDII reader throws out the code U0100 even though check engine light is not on. I dont have VAGCOM or VCDS but should in a few days.
I bought an 05 golf GL with a 2.0 and 5 speed in January for commuting to work.
Well, recently. I was on my way home from work, I'm an engine tech for Cummins Inc, and I notice my CEL came on and the car stalled multiple times at red lights. So I limped it home, connected my scanner and the fault was "Implausible signal from Mass Air Flow sensor". I cleared the fault code and tried to start the car. Nothing, no crank no start. Just an audible click from under the hood.
I disconnected the battery for 5 min reconnected it and it started fine. Drove it to work the next day, no issues. I tried to start it again and nothing, CEL was on again for the MAF sensor. I pop started it, car ran like hell, rough idle, low power, etc. luckily I have a dualy that I can drive in the mean time.
I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
My wifes 2011 GTI DSG threw a CEL last night when she turned it on. It flashed for a few seconds, she turned car off, waited a few minutes, started it up and it was solid.
This car has been dead reliable and was acting fine prior to the CEL. Maintenance is up to date, oil changes every 4k miles. No other issues in the 4 years of ownership other than a burnt out fog lamp.
Car is stock. Given that, how likely is it to be just a faulty coil pack? They are the originals.
I have a 2005 Ford Explorer and a few days ago it wouldn't start, it just clicked and the lights flashed. I put it on a charger overnight and it started right up. I took it to Autozone and he tested the starter, alternator and battery and said everything was green. It was fine until yesterday when I started it up and it ran a self test and gave me:
Ignition Key B
Serial # 00075194
Part # 4L2T-10849-CK
Diagnostic Trouble Code : 9318,9352 and D900
I looked through my manuals and can't find anything with codes. My friend says batteries don't last long in Florida, I have only been here a year from Michigan. I bought the truck in 2008 and have never replaced the battery. The guy at Autozone was reluctant to sell me a battery because he didn't think I needed one. I have never had any problems with this vehicle.
I recently had my PCM flashed due to the deceleration safety recall. My engine now revs to 2200 rpm when I start it even if the engine is hot. It goes down to 750 rpm after about 30 seconds. My engine before the recall, reved from 1200 to 1400 rpm when starting. My dealer and ford tell me 2200 rpm is normal but I think it is too high.
View 7 RepliesSo I was leaving work when my car starting beeping and the coolant low light flashed. I shut the car off and popped the hood to find my coolant level almost to the bottom of the reservior. I figured I would just keep an eye on the temp as I drove home and it stayed right at 190 just like from day one. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump was leaking. I just turned 4k miles on the way there!! What gives? He said it was not uncommon for the pump to start a leak, but was pretty uncommon to leak so soon. He said it is probably due to a bad cast of the pump. I really like this car and I hope it is not a sign of things to come.
View 14 RepliesI parked my 2010 gti at work this morning, walked away, hit the lock button, and noticed a red light on the drivers door that flashed rapidly then kept on blinking steadily indefinitely. i never noticed that before! so... what is that? the alarm? this may be REALLY dumb, but I did not know this car had an alarm!
View 3 RepliesSo I was driving on the freeway and i hit a somewhat small bump in the road. I noticed that my ESP light flashed then turned off. This is normal correct?
View 9 RepliesToday I was driving my R in third gear shooting up a hill and as I was accelerating the car jerked and cel light flashed and then disappeared. I lost power for a quick second and then was restored, I just recently did the 80k service... O2 sensor maybe? There is no lights on the dash....what could it be? My tires handled great
View 12 Replies