I pulled into my garage today and turned off the car, walking around it I heard a fan sound and it turns out that it was coming from my car. I went back in and turned it on to see if it was running hotter than normal (which it wasn't) and when I turned it off the fan was on again. Is this normal?
View 14 RepliesMy R now has 78k on the clock so I guess it's time for the obligatory issues with the radiator fans. My car started running hot from time to time, not constantly. Brief explanation of the issues and my "diagnosis" for each:
Without the A/C turned on the fans don't come on - when I turn the A/C the passenger side comes on all the time (faulty switch). Driver's side fan is intermittent - usually it turns on with the a/c but if it doesn't a tap on the center with the lug wrench gets it spinning (stuck brush).
The main thing I want to make sure is that it's not a thermostat issue as well (or instead of the switch). The heat works fine - I've been blasting it every time I hit traffic on my way home just to ensure that the car doesn't overheat. My assumption was that if the heat works then the thermostat is opening to allow the coolant into the heater core.
During the winter you have to warm up the car before driving. I have always avoided those after market remote starters and just went out, start the car and lock it with the other key (2 last cars were Passats). the GTI wont let me lock it. This is stupid I am not going to sit in the car and freeze for 15 minutes, is there no way to change this with the menu settings?
View 8 RepliesJust drove home with the AC on full blast in 100F and the fan did not continue running at all when I shut off the car. Every other car I have had with an electric fan keeps the fan going for some time to cool the engine.
I had my car in to the dealer last fall and they did a body control module update that I thought was going to fix this. Although it did manage to kill the sunroof closing VAGCOM hack, it did not apparently fix the coolant fan issue.
I recently installed the CTS Turbo Billet aluminum subframe stiffening kit. Now when the car is idling around 800 or so RPM (a little higher when A/C is running) there is a strong vibration in the cabin of the car. Once I rev it up to around 1,000 RPM the vibration is gone. Any solutions to lessen the vibrations?
View 1 RepliesNew to the MK6 world and the halogens they have.. I am used to having Xenons... My question is there a way to run DRL's and fogs together?
I know there's a way to wire the city lights and fogs to run together, but I love the way the halogen DRLs look and i would like to run them together with the fogs. I do have a Euro switch.
just installed subs in my R. i tested them and they worked fine. But when I went to drive the car today they didnt work. turned the car off. All of the sudden they worked again. So for some reason they don't work when the car is running. why?
View 8 RepliesAfter running at normal temperature for about 10 minutes, my car starts to overheat. I noticed my radiator fan wasn't running at any speed, but my auxiliary fan was running fine. I checked the thermal switch and that was okay, because the auxiliary A/C fan still worked after jumping, and the big fan didn't. I replaced the fan assembly and now both fans work fine, so I assume that my thermostat is okay (maybe not and I'm missing something?). Even though both fans are running, my car still overheats, but maybe after 15 minutes now as opposed to 10. Water pump seems to be fine because I can see it pumping back into the coolant reservoir, and it doesn't seem to be sputtering or anything. Just replaced coolant recently after flushing with water, so I assume that the radiator isn't clogged. I also recently replaced the oil because it needed it anyway. It is still overheating so now I'm stuck. I can get to work and back because it's only a 5 minute trip and it doesn't have time to overheat, but I don't want to keep driving it obviously.
View 9 RepliesI was slightly overheating in traffic, watching the gauge creep up a little. So i bought a new fan, swapped it in this morning, and still no Big Fan.
Fuses on top of the battery are all good. Does this mean my FCM is gone?
I've tried it every way I can think of and I can't get my daytime running lights to turn off. I have the base model gti so I don't have buttons on my steering wheel. the manual says to push the left wand down and to the back. then turn on the ignition for three seconds......doesn't do anything. I am thinking they left out a step or forgot something counting wise?
View 19 RepliesThey are ok but would rather have them off.
View 8 RepliesSo I am at a loss. My gti starts and runs great, but not for long its like the fuel just cuts off. It won't stay running long enough for the computer to even pop a code...
View 5 RepliesLast night I was cruising at about 55 when the EPC light came on. At first, I didn't feel anything unusual, but shortly after exiting onto a surface street the engine was definitely running on three cylinders. I immediately turned around and drove the four or five miles home (still on three cylinders) and parked it.
My car is a 2011 with 21K miles. I had an APR flash (Stage 1) done about 2 months ago. (I'm not saying that there's necessarily a connection.) What might be going on? I plan to take it to the dealer tomorrow after resetting to stock program (though I understand it can still be detected). Is it okay to drive it? (Assuming that it will start.)
Running an exhaust with a cutout? Run standard through the mufflers etc, flip a switch and have it be just a straight pipe exhaust?
Disadvantages?
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I know the issue of slow filling of the gas tank has been discussed extensively, but I haven't seen it discussed in the context of a cold car only.
Briefly, I have a 2010 VW Golf and if it has not been running for ~10-15 minutes, the gas pump clicks off as if it is full within 0.2-0.3 gallons. It doesn't even go into the tank and just spills out everywhere. Even in hot weather, if the car hasn't been running for a while (eg. overnight or all day at work), it needs 10-15 minutes of the engine running and then it will fill up all the way without problems. It's not an issue of the gas pump because I will just leave the car running at the gas station and 10 minutes later, I can fill up without a problem.
It's still under warranty but the dealer won't do anything because they can't reproduce it (too many red lights between the dealer and the gas station so the car is warmed up by they time they fill up gas). I haven't seen any issues online of slow fill being dependent on the car temperature.
Any specific things to ask them to check out that they could detect is damaged without being able to reproduce the problem?
I was coming at the climb, my car hit limp mode twice and later I noticed my CEL was on. I let it sit over night when I got where I was going and started it up today started fine but the CEL came on after it ran idle for about 45 seconds. I check the oil and it was on the low end. What it could be?
I drive a mk4 tdi with a malone tune. I am heading back to the valley tomorrow evening I'm just by kamloops right now. Also what oil should I top it with just so it isn't so low for the return trip? (Always get my oil done at the shop)
I own a 2012 Black Golf TDI, had it for about 3 months now and loving it.
Anyways, so I'm aware that when the car shuts off, the fan is still running until it finally cuts off. Last night I got home and when I exited the car, it was blowing pretty loud like the car was still on. I didn't think much of it and just went in the house for a few minutes. It was bugging me that it was louder than usual so I went out to pop the hood to see what's going on. Found nothing so I went ahead and started it up again and shut it off. The fan noise went away after that and shut off properly.
Is there any harm that the fan was blowing louder than usual? I know it's a little vague but just wanted to get an idea because this was the first time it happened.
I only have access to an old VAS scan. I can only edit the long code directly.
I'm looking for the value (hex or binary) I need to put on Central Electronics (09), Byte 15, Bit 3 in order to turn the drl off when turn signal is on.
I have a canadian 2012 GTI with bixenon and rear led.
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Just got 2012 TDI. Can't turn off Daytime Running Lights. Was able to do it with menu option with my 2011. Manual says something about pull turn signal lever back & down & turn on ignition for 3 sec, but couldn't get to work. Took to dealer, they fooled with it, hooked up computer, no luck. Looks like turning off DRLs not an option. Is this new Federal reg for 2012?
View 21 RepliesI have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
Starts right up, runs fine. No CEL. No warning. No symptoms. It just stops running. It may or may not start right back up, but when it does start back it runs as fine as it was running before it quit.
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