Golf/GTI VI :: Fan Did Not Continue Running When Shut Off The Car
Jul 20, 2011
Just drove home with the AC on full blast in 100F and the fan did not continue running at all when I shut off the car. Every other car I have had with an electric fan keeps the fan going for some time to cool the engine.
I had my car in to the dealer last fall and they did a body control module update that I thought was going to fix this. Although it did manage to kill the sunroof closing VAGCOM hack, it did not apparently fix the coolant fan issue.
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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My car makes a ticking noise as soon as I turn the key to the 'on' position. The ticking continues once the engine begins running and stops shortly afterward (maybe 10 - 15 seconds). I'll attach a video of the ticking after the car is already running. I've checked the service light. It is the catalytic converter. I'm pretty sure this is a separate problem, but am not sure what is causing it.
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I went out to my car this morning and the fans were both running full speed. That's before I even got to it then they carried on doing so when I started the car and still ran after I shut it off. I have stopped them by pulling the 30A battery top fuse for them but what has caused it and how I can fix it? Preferably not too expensively as I am moving house next month typically.
The car is a 2003 1.8t GTI with climatronics ....
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So after taking my car to the stealership to get defective door seals fixed, I start driving home and I realize the front tire is flat. After changing to the awesome 17" spare, I decide to get gas. After filling the car up, it started for a few seconds running real rough and then shut off. I tried restarting it multiple times for about 10 minutes and the car kept turning over, but no start. I finally just shut it completely off for five minutes and it restarted, but is running roughly with the CEL light on and another green light, EPL, or something like that. I was able to drive home, but the check engine light is on still and runs like crap.....Back to the dealership in the morning. What this could be? I noticed lately sometimes when I push the gas hard it kinds of bogs down for a sec before accelerating. I had them check this and they said nothing looked wrong when they tested it. Fuel pump maybe?
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After about 3 weeks, I finally get my 04 .:R32 back from the shop after getting a new fuel pump (long story there) and the mechanic mentioned the fans began to run and stay running when the key is turned to the on position and then turned off, key removed etc. I picked the car up tonight and repeated his claim turning the key to the on position and the fans kicked on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected. I am hoping there is an easy fix. What this could be? FCM maybe?
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I just bought an 89 century custom coupe it has had it's fuel pump & filter changed before I got it. The problem is a gas smell after I run it for a while and shut it off. their is no gas smell when its been sitting for awhile.
I have checked the clamps on the filler tube and they needed to be tightened did that. but still has the gas smell. What's causing this ?
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If I put the Prius in park while I get out and mail a letter, engine temp is 190, I can get back in and drive off on electric, zero rpm's. However, if I push the start/stop button, mail the letter, and restart the engine (temp is still 190), I cannot get the engine to spool down. It keeps running for a few minutes.
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My 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse will continue running when the key switch is shut off and the key is actually removed. This occurs intermittently and the dealer can not give me a cause for it!?
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My 1988 jaguar it don't matter whether the weather is hot or cold it will run great for about six or seven miles then it will just shut off like you turned the key off. well then you can wait about 15 or 20 minutes and ti will start and run fine for another few miles off again.
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I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
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2001 F150 ... I'm having trouble with my truck starting after its been running for awhile and then I shut it off.... I have to let it sit for a few min. Before I can crank it again and it will start. I was driving down the road and it just died on me the other day that's what started all this...
The fuel pump and filter was already replaced and I just replaced the cam and crank sensors ... but its still acting up...... I'm not sure where to turn next... No check engine light ..... I have a scan tool and checked for soft codes but nothing.
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The other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary.
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I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
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92 Honda accord. This car has two radiator fans. The passenger side fan comes on intermittently after the car has been shut off, causing the cars battery to drain. If the battery isn't disconnected then the car has to be jumped every time due to the fan running. Cars temp doesn't get hot, checked coolant, everything seems to be working fine.
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2002 Ford F350 7.3...
After replacing the Glow Plug Module and the cam sensor. I have no codes on the scanner. However, after driving the truck for one hour or two it stalled and after cool down about a while t started and stalled after hot. Now I been reading lots of info and this is what I got so far.
Flow Sensor
Fuel injector control
Fuel pump
And one person said that he change the wire harnesses for glow plug on top of the head covers?
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Ok this may be the norm, but I'm hearing something like a motor running after i kill my engine? It sounds like a fuel pump or something!!! O ya I have a 2011 6.7. I've had the truck for several months but just now hearing this....
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OK simple question, when I coat to stop using B why does ICE continue to run instead of turning off? If I move lever to D then ICE shut right down. Other than as a reminder "Shift the lever, dummy", why would/should ICE continue to run in B but not D when stopped (assuming battery does not need recharge)?
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I have a 1996 Ford Ranger which was manufactured in 08/95. The key will crank the trunk fine, but it when put into the off position nothing happens. It continues to run as normal. You can even take the key out, but the truck runs like normal. Could this be bad ignition switch? The key seems to be doing its job because I can see the plastic pin(? I am not sure what its called) move back and forth down steering column when the key is turned.
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When I turn the engine off on my Trailblazer, there is a fan under the dash that continues to run. It sounds like the blower fan. I ended up having to pull the number 34 fuse out to make it stop. This fuse is labeled as "Ignition A". If I pull the #35 fuse, which is for the blower fan, it doesn't stop it. Is there something else besides a blower fan under the dash making this noise and why?
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I'm convinced this is a real problem with my 3-month-old 2013. When I bring it in for the 5K service, soon, this will be my No.1 issue. When running in EV mode, if you happen to start the ICE it will continue to run when you stop. In fact, it races - it doesn't just idle. I've tested this by being stationery for up to 5 minutes. This occurs not just the first time the ICE cycles on and off - it's every time. It only stops while driving (or by powering off).
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