Golf/GTI VI :: Extremely Rough Idle And Engine Stall With Clutch Depressed
Mar 18, 2011
This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.
It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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I have a 98 f150 with a 4.2L V6 and a 5 Speed M5R2 manual transmission, I recently got a rebuilt trans for my truck. I installed it with no issues, while my truck was still on jack stands I tested it out, it shifted into every gear no problem but after I took it off the stands and pulled it out of my backyard, when I take off in 1st its fine with the clutch being slowly released, but as soon as I let go of the clutch the truck just buckles and some times tries to flat out stop.
I'm not sure if I have a Clutch issue, Transmission issue or axle issue, when I tried it out on jack stands I had the stands supporting the rear on the axles so some of the weight of the truck was and the rear axle and it didn't buckle then so I wouldn't think it'd be the axles but when it was on the ground it'll buckle. I even had someone move the truck forward and release the clutch slowly until in was fully releases and looked underneath and saw the axle buckle upward,
What the issue is it only does that when the clutch is released or if I'm lucky enough to release it without buckling once I go to shift to second and press in the clutch the whole truck just comes to a complete stop without the engine stalling. I thought maybe it was a clutch issue and that maybe I put the clutch plate backward(which I'm pretty sure I didn't)but even if I did, I wouldn't even be able to shift it into any gear, at least that's what I think. I bleed the clutch before taking it out so I don't think that could be the issue either.
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I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
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So this morning when I went to start my car for work, it wouldn't idle and was misfiring badly, also has a very loud noise coming from the valve cover. The car has under 40k miles on it and is CPO, so it'll be towing it to the dealership today to get check out. The car ran fine on friday when i parked it.
Here is a vagcom scan I did this morning also.
Monday,25,August,2014,06:03:51:26742
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140212
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261 License Plate:
Chassis Type: AJ (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 55 56 62 72 77
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] .....
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My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
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My car was parked for 5 days. When I next started it there was no response when I depressed the gas pedal--car remained in a rough idle. Had to restart the car three times before it worked but check engine light has not gone off.
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A couple months ago my car (2001 Cavalier 2.4L) started running bad, it just happened one morning when I started it up. Its extremely rough idle at around 500 rpm for about 5 seconds and then it stalls out, if I rev it up with the pedal it'll stay going and you can smell gas coming out the exhaust. the car still drives but has almost no power. I changed the plugs and gaped them to spec of .050 as one of them was corroded really bad, that didn't work, so I replaced one of the ignition coil on the side of the corroded plug,I need to replace both ignition coils or the ignition control module isn't working right.
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I read all of the threads regarding clutch vibrations and other problems but I have 1,500 miles on my R and since day 1 I have been feeling a very slight ticking on my foot when the clutch is depressed. It gets more pronounced when I rev the engine a bit but nothing you can hear. Is this a normal feeling or should I not feel this at all.
I'm getting the APR tune next week and will do HPFP/intake soon but I need to be convinced that the Carbonio Intake is actually an upgrade from the stock intake with just a K&N filter, it doesn't look much different, the intake area looks the same as stock. I don't want to have to modify the engine cover or else I'd get the VWR intake. Any experience with the K&N vs stock vs Carbino?
Not sure if it was just the hot/humid weather yesterday but the car felt a little boggy when starting in 1st gear like it was running too rich or something. Any history of this?
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My brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
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I've been driving manual transmission vehicles - from my '72 Pinto to big trucks - for 40 years. This happened recently in a VW Golf I had rented: While driving down a mountain in a tunnel in Norway, with the clutch depressed, there was a loud POP noise.The clutch became engaged, and the clutch pedal did nothing. I'll spare you the details of the harrowing aftermath, the language barrier issues in the sticks of Norway and such. In the end, the rental company is charging us a couple thousand bucks for breaking their car. I maintain it was not Driver Error. My local VM service manager indicated that the Slave Cylinder on the Golf has been a problem for years, and is probably what went bad, but - as a rep of VW - is not willing (allowed) to put that in writing. The garage that fixed the Golf indicated it was Driver Error. I'm guessing everything tranny-wise got beat up when the Slave gave out, making it look like I'm a bonafide Clutch Masher.
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I bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
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A week and a half ago I went out to my truck to go somewhere and I got about 2 blocks away and the truck started running really rough and had a big lack of power, so I turned around and scanned it with my code reader and the codes I got were p2271, p2196, p0303, p0012, p2197, and p2272. since then I've changed all the spark plugs, boots, swapped all the coils and injectors from a great running truck, fuel filter, and the bank 1 upstream O2 sensor.
the other thing that came to mind that could of caused the problem is that a few days before the problem started. I jump started a co-workers car and he hooked the cables up backwards on his car. Could this be the cause of the problems I'm having.
The truck is an 05 F150 FX4 5.4 with 180,000 miles on it.
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Ntices a strange idling noise? At first i thought it was just something like the radiator fan but it's tied to the clutch pedal..when the clutch is depressed the noise gets more isolated and a little louder. Everyone else in my car doesn't notice it but to me it sounds like something is out of balance... car only has 6500 miles on it and has never been driven hard... 2010 Golf 2.5 5spd .....
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I have a 2014 Passat TDI with a 6 speed manual. When the clutch pedal is depressed between upshifts, there is an audible groaning sound and a vibration in the clutch pedal. The dealer replaced the throwout bearing but the problem persisted. They then replaced the entire transmission and the noise/vibration is still there. The noise follows engine RPM. Is this normal for the TDI powertrain? The dealer had never encountered the noise but they did find another car on the lot with the same noise.
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My car started a rough idle last night.... Pull to stop light, in gear, a/c on #1 and car shudders and acts like it's going to stall..... Went away as I drove a round a bit.....back this a.m. (after the warm up program ran) drove it a bit and was sporadic.....and even went away...then came back.....
Its worse when car is at stop and in 'D'.....little better with a/c off and/or in neutral......it finally threw the CEL today....... I had the fuel pump recall done about a month or two ago, car has 36k+ on it...... Anything I should have the service dept look for aside from what the fault codes might read?
[URL] .....
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My 2001 toyota camry is great but has an intermittent, annoying problem no one can diagnose or correct. If I drive for a while at top highway speed (say 65mph) and then have to come to a stop (to pay toll or stop light) I get a very rough idle and then the car stalls. Have had new plugs, wires, coil, radiator already done to solve problem. Check engine light never comes on. Can also drive lengthy trip and it doesn't happen.
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Last week I had the plugs, coils, valve cover gasket and fuel filter done my 2004 Ford Escape when the engine started misfiring and today it started to idle rough at a stoplight and it seemed like it was going to stall but didn't. I had it sit for about an hour and a half and the it did want to turn over like the battery did have enough cold crank to it but it did after a couple of times. It has come and gone for the last couple of hours. No warning lights are one either. It seems pretty close to what it was doing when it was misfiring. What it may be?
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When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
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1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
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I have a 2013 with the 3.7 in it with 24,000 miles on it. I bought the truck used with 8,000 on it was a pre-Owned certified and it already had a k&n air intake which I know it's not needed and I would much rather have the factory intake instead.. 7 months ago I took it to the dealer because I noticed at stop lights it idled rough sometimes almost feeling like it was going to stall out so I took it in and they said that the motor was getting to much air and causing it to run like it was and they said the cooler weather was making it worse and said it should get better when it warms up and they said it wouldn't hurt anything... Well I live in Florida and it's been in the 90s and it still idles like crap you can feel the vibration through the truck...
And it's so aggravating and annoying and I wish I had a stock intake that I could install on the truck to see if it fixes the problem but I don't and I've researched the problem and have seen people with the same issues without the k&n air intake and I've also been told that the stock air intake gives the motor just as much air as the k&n so with that being said did the dealer take the easy way out and blame the intake or should they be responsible for installing the factory intake back on since they made it a certified pre-owned with the k&n on the truck? It's been frustrating because I don't know a whole lot about gas motors.. And I'd like to get the problem fixed while I still have warranty ..
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