Golf/GTI VI :: Engine Would Rev Up Higher Before Up Shifting
Aug 7, 2012
I noticed my engine would rev up higher before up shifting which is what I always wanted in "D" after I took back my car from the 20K service. Drivetrain Reprogrammed. Now my car is feels a lot more responsive than before.
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When not using the manual mode of the DSG...What are the differences between driving in D and S? It seems like the car shifts more aggressively in S mode, allowing higher rpms before it shifts. Are their any other pros/cons to the different driving modes when in automatic, And what do most drivers prefer?
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I have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
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Had a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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Over the past couple of days, my wife and I have been noticing that our B6 (2.0 Auto/Tip) is shifting at around 4000 rpms. I'll probably be taking it in to have the dealer look into it but wanted to see if the community has experienced anything similar to the issue at hand.
It shifts (Appox):
1st into 2nd - 3200 rpms
2nd into 3rd - 3800 - 4200 rpms
3rd into 4th - 3500 rpms
4th into 5th - 3000 rpms
5th into 6th - 2500 rpms
Notes:
* the appox amounts above are at regular driving acceleration.
* while in Drive - "D" mode
* used to shift into all gears between 2500-2900 rpms
* doesn't shift nearly as smooth as in the past
Is it OK to slip into "Sport" from "Drive" while Driving? How about slipping into Tiptronic while using "D" or "S"?
[URL]......
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Yesterday we had the first hot day this year. Until now, we had up to ~20C, but yesterday it reached 35C (~95F). I have noticed that the car seems.....a bit more lazy. The shifting seems to take longer (higher rpm) and the power seems a bit down compared to a colder day. Is this normal?
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I have an auto transmission 98 nissan pathfinder that I bought brand new way back (in 1998 of course) that seems to have problems shifting into higher gears. When I'm going on a level hwy, I'll get going to 70mph and see the engine rev to 4000 rpm's. It'll stay there for a while (minutes to 10's of minutes). Then the engine will shift to a higher gear and the rpm goes to 2500. Then it shifts back so rpm is 4000. This happens back and forth unpredictably. When it's reving at 4000 rpms I tried letting my foot off the gas and the rpm's drop to less than 1000 like there's no load the transmission. Then I press the gas pedal again and the rpm jumps back to 4000 rpm's. I've had the transmission checked a few times and found nothing. I've changed the transmission fluid, had a major tune up, changed the timing belt, but it still happens. People keep telling me it must be happening on a slight grade but, no, it's on a flat road. There is no 'problem light' that appears either (like a check engine light). I've driven many other cars and they don't do this.
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I have a BMW 523i SE AUTO (1997) 2494 Petrol. In auto transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but won't shift any higher. In steptronic/manual transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 5th without any problems therefore suggesting that the problem isn't the gearbox itself. Only very occasionally does the shift electronics telltale light appear on the dash, yet the problem with the auto transmission is continuous. A local garage specializing in automatics suggested that it was the gearbox inhibitor. I've today had this changed but the problem still exists.
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Shifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
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I have a 2012 elantra limited about 9 month's old with about 14,000 miles on it.
About a week ago I began noticing a burning smell. I first chalked it up to being 1,000 over the 3k mark for an oil change. However I then started to pay attention when I parked if there was any sign of fluids leaking. At first I didn't notice any or seemed like one or two drips. Well tonight I noticed a larger puddle that was def not water.
The other symptom is that it's been shifting up at higher RPMs. Tonight when I got on the freeway I was trying to speed up to 65 but the rpm gauge had me at over 4,000 rpms with normal acceleration...I was not gunning it. I also could not get the car to go past 60 at first, all the while the rpm increasing still, until I let off the gas then hit it again and seemed to trip it to shift and was able to get to 65.
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I have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
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I have a 2010 euro spec GTI DSG with 140.000 km (86.000 miles)
The problems i have..
- Rough vibrations.
- The car starts quick but there is big jolt when the engine fires, shifts or turns of.
What has been done to the car
**New mechatronic 30.000 km ago (replaced with new revision on warranty)
** Oil , filter , plugs
** Carbon cleaning by myself yesterday
** DSG calibration done
** No errors codes
I am thinking its mounts to the engine or transmission? Other things I am thinking of ...
- Coils packs?
- PCV?
- MAF?
The car is little low on power as it struggle on uphills on low speed, but much better after carbon cleaning.
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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noticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
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My Dad's R32 is revving at a higher rpm than it should at idle. It happens randomly for about a minute and then goes away only to return later. He took it to the stealership, but they will not facilitate because they could not replicate the problem. I'm thinking it is some kind of vacuum leak.
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I'm fully equipped with apr stage 2 with all the hardware (carbonio intake and full apr turbo back exhaust). So anyways everytime I'm in the higher gears (3-6) I get this rpm lag/stutter, what the issue can be...
Here's a link to the video on YouTube of what's going on [URL] .....
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What exactly influences MAF readings to be higher or lower? For example I am running similar boost and timing to other Stage 1 cars but my MAF peaks at 238 g/s while others are in the 250's I have heard that you can relate MAF to power but its not exact. I have a Forge Twintake and Stage 1 tune, I have been looking at peoples logs all night and I don't understand why my MAF is reading lower than other Stage 1 and 1+ cars.
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So it is no secret that our fans go out and need to be replaced.
There are suppose to be two temperature thresholds, the first at which the fans turn on at LOW speed, then another higher threshold where the fans turn to HIGH speed.
My fans basically only kick in at the higher temp threshold and into HIGH, the cooling system is skipping over the LOW threshold and fan speed.
Would this be an issue with the fans or the controller?
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Just hit a fantastic Minnesota pot hole. Have a slight shimmy now at higher speeds, feels like its from the rear. Don't see any obvious dents in the rim, what else could I have bent back there? I'm wondering if this is psychosomatic and our roads just suck right now or if I really damaged something.
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I have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
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