Okay so I was driving home tonight going about 65 mph and all of a sudden I hit the gas and didn't feel anything... I looked at my rpms and they were at zero and the traction control light was blinking until finally an error popped up and it was back on... I had a check engine light on until I turned the car on and off....
View 8 RepliesI'm coming home from just running errands around town, got the stereo on pretty loud, normal driving, good weather, and the engine just shuts off. Lights are still on, regular brightness, everything electrical working, but battery light and EPC light are on and the engine won't restart. It'll turn and "click" like it's about to start, but just the starter turns over.
Fast forward 5 minutes (no activity in the interim), and it starts up first try. Battery light is now off but EPC light is still on. This happened about 2 blocks from home, so I gently take it home. 1 block away, the EPC light goes off. I let it idle for a minute and everything now seems normal. I shut it off and so here we are.
Volvo 940 1994 engine shuts off while driving?
View 1 Replies3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
View 4 RepliesSo, I'm driving my 2003 Saturn LW 300 wagon (3.0 liter, V-6 engine) the other day, and the engine shuts off out of nowhere. Luckily, I was on a quiet secondary road, so I drifted to a curb in neutral. Then my car wouldn't start. Eventually, my car started. I drove for another five minutes, and the engine shut off again--without coming back on--while I was driving.
This time I couldn't get the car started again. I had it towed into a shop. Of course, the car starts up, no problem, in the garage. But while it's running for 20 minutes, the engine cuts off once again. They started it back up again, and it ran without stop for 40 minutes. The mechanics can't figure out the problem, and I don't feel real good about taking this car back on the road, especially since I do a lot of highway driving.
What's going on here? (A friend's father had a similar problem with his truck; after taking it to four different shops, one of them finally determine the problem--the fuel pump's electrical harness. Is it possible I'm having the same problem?)
This morning I realized that there is a pattern to our Prius incidents. What Sarah experienced last week is the same that Amy experienced when she drove the car the first day we bought it.
1. January: Amy had driven 20 highway miles with no problem. Park for 10 minutes. Started and crossed to the median of a two-lane Highway. stopped to wait. When tried to go, nothing. Will not move. 10 minutes later tried again and car worked fine for a long time after that.
1a. The car still had the original auxiliary battery. tested and found 12V battery weak. Replaced original battery with Duracell AGM vented battery for Prius. Car drove fine for weeks after this.
2. May: car sat all day. Turn on. Drove across parking lot. then noticed red triangle, VSC, brake warning lights all on. Lots of codes including high-voltage battery, transmission, and others.
3. drove fine for one week. Then going 60 miles per hour up a slight hill. heard the internal combustion engine shutdown. Red triangle, VSC, brake warning light came on. Reduced or no power steering or brakes. Coasted off the road. After 10 minutes, it drove fine again.
3a. I cleaned high voltage battery cooling fan. Drove fine for 10 days.
4. June: Sarah drove 10 minutes. Drove to stop sign. Had to wait 5 minutes for lots of traffic. When ready to pull out, push the accelerator, internal combustion engine shut down and the car would not move. Would not go into reverse. Put in neutral, and enough slope to roll backward to side of road. waited a few minutes, and it drove fine again.
Codes WERE P0A0F engine failed to start and c1300 anti-lock brake. the same codes were thrown in the previous incident. Noticed engine coolant a little low and added more.
Sonata NF 2.0 ... 3 days ago, my care drove for - 4 minutes then engine shut down. Try to re-start the car but unavailable. I towed the car to workshop, they claimed high possibility is the fuel pump faulty.
Initially a check was done found fuel pump good (the technician disconnect the tube before the fuel injector assembly). They did a diagnose test found no error code registered.
Subsequently check on the fuel pump found no fuel come out before the fuel injector assembly (same as previous, disconnected before the assembly). Fuel pump was replaced. The engine can start running but will shut down after a while.
What is the possible cause and how to identify the root cause.
Was driving vehicle on highway at 75mph (speed limit) and the engine cut off. Just prior to this event, the vehicle was acting sluggish when stepping on the gas pedal. It took the vehicle from 5-10 seconds to respond to the acceleration requests.
Up until this point, the vehicle would work normally except for the transmission, (we've always had a problem with this from day 1), the GMC mechanics said they even took the trany apart and put it back together and couldn't find any issues. The transmission, when moving from a stopped position will not engage into gear for several seconds (4s - 7s) and when it does, the van pops into gear, jerking the van.
Vehicle: 2004 GMC Savana 1500 passenger Van
Mileage: 105,000
History: has had regular oil changes/tuneups
Primary Issue: Engine shut off while driving at 75mph
Secondary Issue: Tranny pops into gear after delay from stopped position (from park to drive or park to reverse)
My '99 Accord has developed a bad habit of shutting itself off while I'm driving. The first time this happened was a few months ago. The engine shut off and the key light flashed, as if I had turned the key to shut the car off. The radio and lights remained on. It started again without incident.
In the last month, it has been happening more frequently. I have noticed that sometimes I am unable to get the engine to turn over the first time. This is always followed by the car shutting off at some point while I'm driving.
Today, I was unable to start my car the first few times I tried and it shut off three or four times on my five minute trip home. The radio, lights for the A/C and windows all still had power. I had trouble restarting the car after each incident but did eventually get it going again.
What the problem is? Maybe it's just time for a new car...
1997 Volvo 850 Engine Problem? My customer question is, during the times my customer drive, When my customer start the car & when my customer put it on drive, the engine shuts off. My customer was wondering what was the issue of the problem , ALLDATA 10.53 & what's causing it to happen.
View 2 RepliesI'm having a problem with my 92 crown vic overheating the radiator and thermostat have been replaced, the temp gauge never goes near the hot range but the engine gets so hot it shuts down while I'm driving. I am a rural mail carrier so I use the car for about 5 hours a day, I have to stop and let the engine cool by opening the hood for about a half hour after driving for 1 1/2 hours. I am not losing any coolant and the fan appears to be working.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 trailblazer with the V6 engine. while driving it will say on the message center POWERING DOWN. the engine shuts off and after coasting to a stop its like the battery is dead. It wont shift into park and the key cant be removed from the key switch. thinking that it was a battery or alternator problem I had both replaced. And it done the same thing the last time it was driven. Had it towed home, connected a battery charger to it to boost it and it allowed me to cut the ignition to the off position and remove the key. What could be wrong with it?
View 10 RepliesMy wife's 2006 Honda CR-V has developed a mysterious issue where every minutes, and I mean to the second every 15 minutes, the car behaves as if the ignition switch was turned to the OFF position shutting off the engine. After about 10 seconds, the dashboard light blink as if the key has been turned to the ON and then we can start it. If we try to start it before the dash lights blink, the starter turns but nothing else happens. The immoblizer has been inspected and ruled out and, there are no error codes in the computer.
View 6 RepliesMy 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 F350 6.0L Diesel with about 72,000 miles on it. It has been the best truck ever, but just about two weeks ago it started doing something real strange. While driving, and it seems to only be at slow speeds, (idle or just accelerating), the truck will shut off the engine. And it is always in this order, it will first "pop" all the speakers real loud, then the radio will reset, (go to the AM radio and shuffle through my 6 disc changer) and then the engine will shut off.
Once I bring the truck to a stop and put it into park, it will then start back up with no problems at all. There is nothing I can seem to piece together as to when it will do it other then it seems to only be at slow speeds... Besides that, it is completely random. One day it did it four times, and then it didn't do it for the next few days at all... The only thing that has changed over last 2 weeks is that, the last few times that it has done it, it didn't kill the engine, it still popped the speakers like normal and then reset the radio, but didn't shut off the engine.
My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
I own a 2012 Black Golf TDI, had it for about 3 months now and loving it.
Anyways, so I'm aware that when the car shuts off, the fan is still running until it finally cuts off. Last night I got home and when I exited the car, it was blowing pretty loud like the car was still on. I didn't think much of it and just went in the house for a few minutes. It was bugging me that it was louder than usual so I went out to pop the hood to see what's going on. Found nothing so I went ahead and started it up again and shut it off. The fan noise went away after that and shut off properly.
Is there any harm that the fan was blowing louder than usual? I know it's a little vague but just wanted to get an idea because this was the first time it happened.
Looking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
2001 Jetta 1.8t... Recently made a change in the engine head because in broke the timing belt and had to do valves etc., the car was without power(battery disconnected almost a month), now when it start, a light(symbol orange)comes in the cluster and the engine shuts off, what is causing this problem.
View 10 RepliesWhen I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
I have a 99 escort that will just shutoff while driving. I drive 40 mile one way to work which is all I use the car for mainly. At first it seemed if I would shut the ac off it would shutoff the car but it always starts right back up. Now it is more frequent and happens whenever. You may be driving on the highway no ac and it just shuts off. I do not get the dash lights that show it's off unless I put it in neutral. If I don't shift to neutral the car will slow down like the motor is running and you can feel the transmission downshifting as we slow. It always starts right back up. I cleaned the throttle body and maf sensor but no difference. The other day I didn't think I would make it to work it carried on so bad. Then the drive home it happened only twice. Maybe the ccrm? And the car has no codes.
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