Golf/GTI VI :: Engine Hesitation And Lurching At Low Speed
Aug 3, 2011
Some of you with TDI's equipped with DSG's may or may not have these issues - but now there appears to be a fix. I've had a problem with a long delay in the DSG engaging from a stop. Also, I've had some engine hesitation and lurching issues.
Here is information from my paperwork after having those issues repaired. There was an ECM Software update to fix engine hesitation and lurching at low speed. That problem seems to be fixed.
UPDATE NUMBER: 23602599
Huge delay in the engagement of the DSG from a stop. There was a TSB for this specific issue dated on June 16, 2011. After my initial drive from the dealership to work --- this problem also appears to be fixed.
TSB NUMBER: 2011690/3 35-11-01
View 24 Replies
Advertisement
2003 E300. For a while I have experienced intermittent hesitation and I just put up with it as it was only a bit annoying. It has since worsened to a lot of hesitation and lurching, to the point where, at times, I'm concerned about stalling out and/or getting rear-ended. I took it to my dealer. They installed and ECU update. However, that did not solve the problem. The service manager said that it is an "inherent condition" and it is operating as designed.
View 1 Replies
Recently I switched from Revo software with 440cc injectors to Unitronic with Siemens 630cc injectors. After swapping, the car has developed a hesitation issue. It only happens when driving a consistent speed in one gear, for example going 45 in 5th, the car will feel jumpy and hesitate to accelerate with a seeming loss of power. Replaced spark plugs with new ones and the problem still persists. Problem never happened with old software and injectors.
View 2 Replies
My mom owns a 1993 Passat (V6). It has recently caused her endless frustration and she has paid many dollars, which she cannot afford, for "repairs" that haven't fixed anything. She describes the symptoms:
"I am driving along at highway speeds and the car suddenly starts coughing, sputtering, and lurching resulting in only being able to coast along at a low speed. Pressing the accelerator is no use. Intermittently, the power comes back, but eventually this syndrome results in an "overheat-like smell" and the car must be shut off. After resting for a little while the car restarts and runs normally before starting this behavior again."
She has now paid hundreds of dollars to a tech who admits he doesn't have all the VW diagnostic equipment, but who says he thinks he has found the problem. Do these symptoms sound like any known issues...
View 1 Replies
I've replaced all (3) ignition coils, both O2 sensors, wires and plugs, air filter, fuel filter...Also experience some missing at low rpms as well...not sure what the problem is?
View 4 Replies
My 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
View 3 Replies
This whole time I thought it was a bad or dirty MAF and it's not as I replaced it 3 times. Car hessitetes and throws a ESP light on so now I think it's problem with abs or brakes.
I have engine code:
-16486 P0102 Air mass meter G70 signal too low
I do have a VF MAF harness extension cause used to be S/C maybe that's why the signal is low, then 2 abs codes:
-01314045 Engine control module (ECM) check DTC memory there isn't much info on this but I heard a lot of people replace their ABS control module cause VW says most have short in them but in ECS tuning they don't have one for R32 like R32 doesn't have it. Does R32 have it.
-00495 ESP - sensor unit, voltage supply
I tried clearing all the codes but comes right back followed by a hesitation.
View 17 Replies
Launch control not working, even though everything is done correctly? I was sitting at a light last night, put it in "S" mode, turned off ESP, pressed the brake down, hit the gas and only hit 2K and a little lurching... Tried it a couple more times, same thing... Next light, it worked just fine... Next light, same things again happened with 2K only and lurching...
View 11 Replies
I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler, manual transmission, 6-cylinder. I accidentally let the battery die in September. I got a jump, and it was fine until we got a cold snap. (We live in NJ.) On the first cold day (October), the battery was dead again. The battery is about 4 years old. I got it jumped, and it was fine, but the CE light came on. I have been dealing with the CE light and generally lousy engine performance ever since. (The car is lurching and hiccuping.) I have had it to the shop four times since the initial dead battery in September.
I bring it to the shop, they hook it up to the computer, and each time it indicates a sensor problem. They have replaced the 02 sensor, the TPS sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced several spark plugs, and swapped out the clockspring. It has been to the shop four times in the past 5 weeks. I even switched mechanics after the first one said he was going to replace the 02 sensor and I looked at my records and pointed out that he had already done that back in June. (At that point, they said "Oh"" and tried replacing the TPS sensor.) The 2nd mechanic also got the TPS sensor code and I told him that the previous mechanic had already replaced that one, as well.
He went to a discussion website for mechanics and discovered a "design flaw" that a majority of mechanics said could be rectified by replacing the clockspring. So he tried that. Every time one of these guys does something, the CE light goes off and they test-drive it and it seems fine. Then I come to pick it up, after hours, hours later, when the car has completely cooled off, and the CE light is back on. Yesterday I picked it up and the CE light was on but at least it was running better. Then I drove it 90 miles and it was hiccuping badly by the end of the trip. Also, I filled up my gas tank at the beginning of the trip, and the tank is now between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Horrible mileage. My husband made the same trip in a different car, also a Jeep, and also filled up at the beginning, and his tank is more than 3/4 full.
I know I can take it to Auto Zone and get the code, but I'm not hopeful that the code will say anything other than what it has already said, i.e. O2 or TPS sensor.
View 5 Replies
I have a 97 Wrangler 4 liter that lurches violently. It runs fine until the engine is warmed up. After the engine warms up it it begins lurching. When I put the clutch in, the lurching stops. When I let the clutch out, it is okay for 1-2 seconds (i can get power and advance the vehicle), then I put the clutch in and repeat that process. When I give it a little gas with the clutch in, the engine runs smooth - so it doesn't appear to be a gas problem. When I give it gas with the clutch out it lurches violently.
After pulling it into my garage I let it idle to about 5 minutes. It idles rough and is about to stall, when it apparently shoots a little more gas preventing it from stalling.The check engine light has come on. I took it to my local mechanic who cannot find the problem. The "computer code" indicates a faulty oxygen sensor. He also checked the fuel pressure which is okay.It has 120K miles and otherwise has been a great vehicle. It has been well maintained.
View 7 Replies
My 91 corolla likes to lurch and misfire. Also there seems to be a slight loss of power to the engine. Clutch isn't slipping. What's going on? friend said it might be the distributor.
View 3 Replies
Car info:1997 Mercedes E420, ~186,000 miles Check engine electronics light always on because of unrelated evaporation censor issue. Having issues with my car, and my mechanic is a little stumped.
Story: Maybe in the last week or two, noticed the faintest flutter of the engine when stopped at red lights. Was faint, seemed like no big deal. This last Friday, had been driving 45mph for 3-5 minutes (cool day). Stopped at red light, engine freaks. Got intermittent revving and lurching of whole car. "Acc.skid control" warning light comes off. I pull over in a fast food parking lot, turn car off, calm down cuz I was freaked out by aggressive lurching. Pulled over maybe 20 minutes. I decide to drive to my mechanic who happened to be nearby. Turn car on, and it stalls four times, in the time it took me to back out of the parking space I was in and get to the driveway.
Where things get interesting:Mechanic replaced "failing mass air intake sensor". Car seems 95% fixed...I go to pick t up today, and the same issue seems to be happening, but way less dramatic. Did a ride-along to show mechanic the issue (because they couldn't replicate it), and he said: Seems like the engine doesn't know what level to idle at, and hesitates to shift gears. Issues appear more when driving slow. This has only been an issue since Friday. Never noticed ANY other signs of transmission issues. He says he's not sure what to do, and will try checking the transmission fluid and clean the throttle body.
View 19 Replies
I am trying to trace down an issue with my 2009 Tiguan, auto. Its in regards to a stutter I notice in the vehicle at a certain speed/rpm. Almost appears if it doesn't want to shift and unless you really give it. The car certainly still has the power and all, this is also more noticeable on colder days. Today I stopped by the dealer where the vehicle was originally purchased as I am the 2nd owner and they provided me a complete print out of all the service history of the vehicle (quite informative).
Reading through it I found that the not even 6000 km the intake manifold was replaced under warranty they scanned for error P0215. This was on August 2014. They also replaced the injectors during this service.
And then also back in Dec. 2010, 70000km ago they replaced the manifold runner assembly and manifold for the first time.. Appears that they replaced the manifold on this car twice now.. Could this be my cause for the stutter?
Hard to believe that the same part would be getting replaced on a car within 60000km twice..
View 9 Replies
Experiencing a low speed transmission surge or hesitation when applying first applying the gas at parking lot speeds.? I especially notice it when traveling downhill or a slight decline. The motor revs as if in neutral then the transmission catches on. I mentioned it to the dealer at the 1000 mile check up and they said they could not find anything wrong. I'm getting ready to take it in for the 5000 mile service.
View 8 Replies
I just got a used GS350. At about 20-25mph, it can sometime hesitate/jerk when I am driving without much acceleration. If I press the accelerator hard, the car accelerates without much problem.
I tried searching through the forum but couldn't find same problem except maybe the LS460 [URL] ....
I have tried cleaning the MAF with CRC cleaner + resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for 10minutes but I still have the problem. Strangely, I didn't have to recalibrate the windows after plugging out the battery, but the GPS did the long initial boot-up..
View 14 Replies
I have a really weird issue with my 2003 Ford Focus. Manual transmission, just over 50,000 miles. I've been noticing a stumble or hesitation (like the engine is cutting out) at steady speed, but ONLY when it is snowy out, more if it's windy as well. I don't recall that this happens if it's rainy or foggy. All maintenance is performed as specified, to include air filter changes.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2000 Tahoe with the 5.3L V-8, 351,000 (yes that is correct) miles. Runs great except it has recently developed a stutter, hesitation, skip, I don't really know how to describe it, under acceleration or at steady speed. This is an intermittent problem and it is driving me batty. The only codes are a P0420, maybe after 350k miles it needs replaced? Would that possibly cause this issue, or am I looking at something more sinister?
View 2 Replies
my 2006 GX has 95000 miles and recently i've noticed a slight hesitation followed by a slight surge in speed while driving at a constant speed. it almost feels like i'm pushing the accelerator then releasing it. its a very mild difference but i'm guessing tranny and have 5k left on my warranty. it occurs at a variety of different speeds but most noticeable at about 35-40mph and up around 55mph.
View 6 Replies
We have a brand new 2013 Ford Focus, a little over 2500 miles. We drove the vehicle to NYC, starting the trip with over 500 miles. During stop-n-go driving the following conditions are experienced: - car in drive but stopped, engine idles at 750rpm- car moving at crawl speed, less than 5mph, and RPM between 750 to 2100, engine acts as if it will stall (IT IS AN AUTOMATIC TRANS); when this happens there's an obvious shudder - again almost as if the car will stall out- cannot determine what gear its in, but probably first, second, or maybe third, but no higher
We took the car back to the dealer, but they acted as if this was a normal, if not, non existent issue; they were very dismissive.
View 15 Replies
When I'm driving at highway speed and press the accelerator after coasting a bit, the engine stumbles then picks up and accelerates. The fuel bowl assembly is brand new as of 5 months ago, and I drained of any water last month when I changed oil. Truck is stock with 350k miles.
Apart from this issue, it runs well and idles smoothly. Injectors are healthy per a buzz test a powerstroke mechanic performed last year. What could cause the stumble off idle?
View 11 Replies
