I went to the dealer yesterday for my 105000km service. After it is done, I realized that they overfill the engine coolant reservoir. Should I make an appointment with them again to drain them out and put back the right amount? Or it is completely fine?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Lexus GS430 w/ 100k miles. I've been trying to solve my coolant issue for the longest and I've been doing research like crazy!!! The issue that I'm having is that coolant from the radiator is blowing back into the reservoir causing the reservoir to be overfilled and splattering all over the engine bay. Also, when this happens the fluid in the radiator drops significantly ( I have to keep dumping the lost coolant from the reservoir back into the radiator). Under normal driving the fluid wont blow over to the reservoir that much (just a little) but, when I drive long distances or if I floor it that is when the coolant from the radiator really pushes over into the reservoir. When the car cools, I find out that the coolant from the reservoir does not draw back into the radiator. (I'm guessing due to the air in the cooling system?)
Checklist on what has been done to the car:
- NEW Water Pump (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Timing Belt (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Thermostat (Installed by Lexus) (I also tested the thermostat in boiling water and it opened and closed)
- NEW Radiator (Installed by Lexus also was pressure tested and passed)
- NEW Radiator Cap (Genuine Toyota 1.1 bar)
- Coolant Flush (flushed radiator and engine block with water hose)
-Bled System with my Lisle Spill Free Funnel and Heater on MAX HOT Full blast! Heater is working good!
(Did this 3 times for 30 min+ to get rid off all the air bubbles)
- Performed a Block Test to see if any combustion gasses were in the cooling system, to determine if it was a blown/failing head gasket (passed)
I dont know what else to do at this point other then do a compression test and a leak down test. There is no coolant in the oil and no coolant leaks. Car drives solid and strong! Is there a bleeder valve on the GS430 somewhere or does it have a bleeder valve? Is it something I'm doing wrong?
I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
View 14 RepliesPulled up to a red light yesterday evening and saw some smoke near the right side of the hood. I immediately checked out the temperature gauge and it was fine. Car didn't appear to be overheating. I make it home--2 more blocks--pull into the garage, leave the engine running and pop open the hood.
THE COOLANT IN THE RESERVOIR TANK IS BUBBLING LIKE HOT SOUP AND A NICE PUDDLE HAS ACCUMULATED NEAR MY FRONT RIGHT TIRE--NOT TO MENTION THE TRAIL OF COOLANT LEFT DOWN THE STREET AND UP MY DRIVEWAY.
After some minor research it appears that it can be a few factors (ie, thermostat, fans????) I assumed it was a cracked reservoir (which would explain the leak) but the bubbling it the real issue.
So it was like -10 here today, and I've had a coolant leak which could be the crack pipe? It's coming from the center of the motor and covering the oil filter housing. Anyway I've been adding distilled water until I could get coolant. So today I went out and the coolant reservoir was slushy ice. So I open the drain and drained a bunch out then added some coolant while it was draining to work along with running the engine a short time with the drain open and that got it flowing out. So I drained just about all fluid and put the half gallon I had leftover of g13 . Tomorrow I will go get more coolant. So the question is did I ruin my motor? Crack the block or heads? Should I fill the rest with 50/50 mix? When I ran the car it held operating temp just fine but the fan wasn't blowing warm.
View 4 RepliesI always check the fluids, every 2 weeks or so just to make sure everything is fine, yesterday I found oil inside coolant reservoir.
The last oil change was performed 2 weeks ago and the oil that came out of the engine looked normal to me, no coolant in it.
I want to keep this car because is more than a car for me, I have a lot of plans to do with it but damm it getting annoying.
Yesterday after getting to work i noticed a few drips from under the front of the car, at first i shrugged it off thinking maybe it was condensation or whatever. After coming back to my car about 5 hours later it had made a good sized puddle under the car and i knew something wasn't right. Well on my lunch i got under it and collected the liquid only to find that it was coolant. To make matters worse on the drive home my temp gauge would go to operating temp then drastically drop to almost cold temp.. weird. And last but not least when i parked the car at home i noticed that the cooling fans did not stay on after the car was off, since it was about 95deg this seemed wrong. Took the car to the dealer this morning and I'm hoping its just a loose pipe or something little and not anything that will keep it in the shop for a long time. Car is completely stock except for cat back exhaust, 12,000 miles on the odo.
View 6 RepliesI have a MK4 2.0L 8v 5 speed and recently I started making trips out to the country that last a bout 25 minutes one way and I usually drive pretty spirited the whole way.
I recently noticed that after each trip my coolant reservoir drops significantly, about 1/2" or 3/4". The oil level never changes and the engine never passes 90C on the gauge.
The outside temperature is about -10C most of the time and I always have it at operating temps before I really get into it.
I can't decide if this is normal because the engine isn't overheating (as far as the gauge says) or a problem because it's using a lot of coolant. I've never been to a track with this or any other car so I'm not sure about the effects from hard driving.
The engine revs to 6.2k RPM and I never go over 5k.
It has happened to me several times.. The car asks me for coolant but today the reservoir was almost completely empty... I have no leaks and my cooling systems is working fine so where does the coolant go?
View 6 RepliesHave an issue with the coolant bowl cracking? Just went down to fire up my R this morning and the check coolant light came on. Noticed some coolant around the center seam of the reservoir. Turns out the top nipple was separated from the bowl.
View 7 RepliesI was cleaning my engine bay today and noticed there was some coolant in the reservoir tank area, it looks like it's coming out from the cap. The cap does have another hose that isn't connected to anything, just for overflow I guess and I did see dry coolant inside that hose too, so it must be coming out of there and there was some underneath the cap also.
I cleaned it up and warm up the engine and did some revvings and all seems well. No leak whatsoever. Weird. Do they check the coolant at the oil change service? Maybe they overfilled my reservoir tank?
I have a 2013 GTI manual 6 speed with 18K very gently driven miles. Yesterday I noticed coolant on the garage floor and checked the reservoir which was below the fill line.
Went to dealer this morning .....bad water pump. I asked if this was unusual for such a new car with low miles and service writer said yes. After googling water pump failures of GTi's I learned this was not the case.
So this weekend my Y-fitting for the coolant hose (coming out of the reservoir) broke, literally after arriving at my friends house about 50 miles from home.
I "mended" it, and decided to try to take it home, as it is my daily. Temperature would get high, but not into the red, and drop back down. On the final rise, it got a bit too close to red for comfort. I drove about 25 miles, and my coolant light was on the majority of the time. The last 3-5 miles, my oil light came on. When I went to pull off the road, I pushed in my clutch and my car died. My first assumption was a head gasket (as I have been there before.
I open the hood and coolant is pouring out of my "mended" y-fitting. I check under the car - no oil, just coolant. The oil didn't seem to be "milky," but there seemed to be some sort of condensation on the filler cap. I checked the dipstick - not milky, just liquidy. I added some oil to the car, and had a friend bring some distilled water, and did a little bit better job of mending my fitting. I poured the distilled water in, and it started boiling almost immediately. I let the car cool for a couple hours and tried to start it, but nothing.
There's no white smoke, but the car just "puts" for a few cranks, and then it goes back to cranking. Looking around the engine housing, there doesn't seem to be any oil; but my car has a lot of grease on the block, so it's hard to say.
I did some searching, and it seems that it could be the oil cooler? I don't have the tools for a compression test, and the car was towed to a gas station, which is about 30 mins from my house.
The car is a 2004 Jetta, 1.8T Manual with the 5-speed.
Why my 2002 Jetta 1.8t does this?
After I drive for a while I have to [slowly] open the overflow cap and relieve pressure in order to not lose coolant while the car sits. It steams for a bit when I open the cap and then the coolant rises in the reservoir then I close it.
If I don't do this then the car loses coolant but I don't see any leaks visible under the car.
I did not run the truck for 5 months and the engine will not crank. I charged the batteries but when I turn the key nothing happen, I hear the glow plug system going but nothing else, starter does not click at all.
One thing that scares me is that there is no coolant left in the reservoir and I am scared that it went in the engine. I did have to add coolant last summer.
How can I first test the starter? Can I turn the engine by hand? If I push the truck, does the engine turn and can I tow it without damaging the engine if it is hydrolocked?
I have a 2011 SE I4 with roughly 12k on it. Here's my problem: The past few days, I've been smelling something sweet coming out of my AC. I thought nothing much of it until today, when I noticed that my coolant/antifreeze reservoir level was slightly below the low "L" point with the engine cold. I am not sure if this means that I have a leak or something more serious? Is there something that I can do to try and figure out what the hell is wrong? My car is still under warranty, is this something that the dealership should look into? Will there be a cost for that?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.
Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:
=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.
After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.
After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:
=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.
I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.
Next things I'm looking at replacing:
=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets
I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.
While servicing the bosses 121k 6.0, I noticed the coolant resevoir empty. It took 1 1/2 gallons to bring to proper level. Returning under truck to install drain plug, I noticed coolant coming from rear of the engine(right side). And of course Ford has changed the cooling system cap, so I wasn't able to pressure test it to pinpoint the leak. Started the engine and seen coolant coming from the left rear as well. I've been reading here to see what others have been seeing, (EGR cooler, head gaskets). With all the heat shields,not much room to look.
After work I did go and buy the adapter to test the cooling system. With any luck I will be able to see leak better.
Dealer over filled the oil and now during cold start ups I am getting a bad noise form the engine that sounds like bad tappets or clanking metal. this does go away after a few seconds. Should I be alarmed?
View 8 RepliesI checked the oil it does not have coolant in it, so that eliminates the headgasket.
View 3 RepliesMy buddy has a 2000 1.8T Passat and he has oil in coolant reservoir. It does not blow out any smoke. It runs fine, and does NOT have coolant in the oil. We pulled off the oil/coolant heat exchanger on the oil filter and it appears to be good. We blocked off one end and filled it with coolant and put compressed air to the other end. Nothing came out. He took it to the shop and they said the turbo seals were good. I can't verify that though.
Head gasket? Worse yet cracked head or block? The car does have 170,000 miles.