Golf/GTI VI :: Engine Noises Coming When Idling With The Clutch Engaged
Apr 1, 2010
I've been noticing my GTI has been making some weird noises, especially after only have 380 miles on it. When idling with the clutch engaged, it makes a rattling noise that goes away when depressed. There's also a rather loud sound coming from the timing belt and just underneath the plastic engine cover. I'm hoping it just needs breaking in, but I'd just like some reassurance that it's nothing serious.
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Ntices a strange idling noise? At first i thought it was just something like the radiator fan but it's tied to the clutch pedal..when the clutch is depressed the noise gets more isolated and a little louder. Everyone else in my car doesn't notice it but to me it sounds like something is out of balance... car only has 6500 miles on it and has never been driven hard... 2010 Golf 2.5 5spd .....
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I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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Within the past 2 weeks I've been noticing that when I shift hard into 2nd and 3rd, I manage to grind the gears slightly. At first I thought that maybe I wasn't engaging the clutch fully but after enduring rush hour traffic in the hilly streets of SF yesterday, I noticed that I could replicate the grinding at a full stop with the clutch fully engaged which makes me think that maybe my clutch is going bad.
I'm a bit unsure since the car still pulls up the hills like a champ (maybe it could be pulling harder?) and need to point out tell tale signs to look for when your clutch is starting to fail and requires replacement.
If my problem is not due to clutch, what could it be? If it is, any good place in bay area to take the R? I plan to replace with stock set up.
Currently I have stock clutch w/ +73k miles. I did have an episode where a car transporter managed to make thick grey smoke pour from my clutch due to ineptitude so clutch failure would not surprise me.
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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I have an 04 Gli with 85000 miles on it. I just had the clutch done with a conversion from a dual mass to a single. When the car is idling there is some chatter coming from the tranny but it stops once i press the clutch.
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I have a 2013 4 Door Golf MK6 with the following:
DG springs
225 X45 X17"
Hotchkis RSB ( set on the softest setting which is 90% stiffer over the OEM one)
Neuspeed Endlinks
About two weeks ago I started hearing some creaking noises coming from the rear of my car. I thought, I need to put some grease to the RSB bushings, but this didn't work. After a close inspection I notice that the sway bar was rubbing.
The RSB was installed about 3 1/2 months ago and didn't have any issues. What could be causing the problem? I am suspecting the endlinks are going to be culprit. the car is used as a daily driver. what endlinks would you recommend to get?
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So I just replaced my upper strut bushings and bearings and there's still noises coming from the struts or idk what it is but its coming from up front and when I back up and turn the wheel or when I am driving down my drive way there's little bumps and once i drive over them the car just makes all this noise. Pretty much what else could it be? are my struts blown? or could it be something is loose?
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Just noticed that upon start up and idle ac blows ice cold. 5 miles down the road it starts to blow warmer. I've misplaced my manifold set. I did have a low pressure gauge from a long time ago.
Low pressure was would stay around 40psi then slowly over 5 seconds or so drop down to 20 hold for about 10 second and climb back up. All while just at idle.
That's after i added a can of refrigerant. After the second can it seems to have stabilized at around 40 psi. Which is still a little low for being almost 90* outside.
I know with just one reading its like reading a book and only reading every other page.
Here is my main question. Is the compressor suppose to cycle? I've always been under the impression it does. So i deemed a bad pressure switch possibly right off the bat. After doing a google search i see some are stating that it runs continuously.
The only time in a 15 min span my compressor kicked off is when i turned the control to "OFF" or when i unplugged the pressure switch. Is this right? Seems like i would burn up the compressor...
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I am experiencing issues with front shocks RS2 Coilovers. I have this knock occurring from both front shocks. If they're set the softest, they're the worst...knocking noises over all small sharp bumps or sharp dips in the road. If I set them to full stiff and you drive it immediately after the ride is stiffer, but smoother, almost no noise at all, only when driving over roads that throw weight from side to side quickly will create the knock, but very light. However after a while of driving it just starts to make noise again as if they're unwinding on there own. When I check their position, they're where I left them. It feels as if the shock pressure bleeds until I perform the same routine and it feels tight again for a short period.
Its starting to annoy me now, car has 6000km on it and 600 km on the coilovers.
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I'm looking to purchase a complete shifter assembly (cables, plastic box, shift lever, ect. Not the parts that bolt to the transmission itself) so I can reverse engineer them without having any down time with my car. I want to make an aluminum box and shifter assembly to eliminate all the plastic components in the stock shifter mechanism. I'm thinking along the lines of a VWMS billet shifter mounted down low in the box so it isn't seen when a shifter boot is used. This will hide the really cool assembly, but I'm after function here.
I'm currently at 23k miles and there are creaking noises coming from my shifter assembly. The shifter mechanism has also lost the crisp feeling it once had when it was new. The dealer has offered to replace it under warranty, but I want to do it once and do it right. The OEM plastic stuff will not cut it.
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Disconcerting noises from my engine that began suddenly around 198,000 miles.
Nobody listening seems to think it's bottom end, and I did check valve clearances and found them all to be on the tight side (ten within tolerance on the tight side, and six just-out-of-tolerance tight).
I also saw what looked like less oil on the #4 exhaust cam lobes and I'm wondering if there could be some kind of oil delivery issue. (#4 exhaust was also an area that had stuck out to the stethoscope before I took the cover off).
There's a dark brown varnish pretty much everywhere on the top deck (photo in other thread), pretty much as a thin coat that doesn't rub off easily, but I saw a few flat flakes coming off here and there, and wonder if that stuff might occlude an oil passage.
I've picked up a product called Auto-RX that I've never used before. From reading its patent I think there at least might be something to it (an ester of a fatty acid that's claimed to dissolve varnish and sludge without the other effects of more conventional solvents).
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Ive been hearing some noises coming from the right side of the dashboard when I turn the heat on. Then last night, smoke/steam started coming through the vents with a strong odor. Popped the hood and there is some smoke coming from behind the engine as well. Sounds like the heater core but why the smoke from the engine? Temperature gauge reads as normal and I have no lights on the dash.
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I bought a used accent 1.3 before few months , with 100k miles on the clock. I did all the basic maintenance stuff, oils, filters, spark plugs, coolant, timing belt etc... I replaced the clutch disc also, because it was slipping.
The problem is that the clutch engage with a knock sound, just like when you have a loose engine mount. But... if i stay with clutch pedal pressed for a second, do the shift and released, the clutch engage smooth and all works fine. So, that's the way I do shifts for now.. Is this a flyweel problem?
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I bought a 1999 F150 4.6 4x4 recently that is giving me some problems. The current one is the AC compressor. The system wasn't charged when I bought it a month or so ago and last week the compressor started smoking. I replaced it with a brand new one, including the clutch and pulley, accumulator and orifice tube. I never got the chance to charge the system because the first time I drove the truck the new compressor started freezing up. I took it back and exchanged it and put the new one in. This time I paid attention and the clutch engages as soon as I start the truck. The AC controls are off and there is no freon in the lines.
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The wife drove the Excursion (V10) to work today and it ran normal and didn't have any loud noises coming from under the hood. When she started the engine to return home it immediately started knocking. This is not a ping, but a knock. Not a loud heavy knock, but much louder than a ping. It has a fast frequency, seems too fast to be a rod knocking. The frequency is similar to a valve issue, but the knock seems to be too heavy for lifters. Oil looks good. Just changed out 2 weeks ago. Truck is driven everyday.
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I have a f150 with a 5.4 triton I have noises coming from the engine loud when cold get quiet as you increase rpm almost sounds like the valves if you go under truck noise gets louder truck has less than 68000 miles.
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Last week I took my baby to AWE Tuning, and had a chip and a diverter valve installed, when i left it felt like a different car it was great! now when im driving its not right, ok ill be in gear and as soon as i get on it and hit like 3thousand rpm it feels like the clutch is engaged and the rpms shoot up fast and the car isnt moving like it should. is it my clutch?
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So I've had a habit of slightly engaging my clutch at stop lights so that the transition to the gas is easier and quicker. Never had a problem until today where I smelt the dreaded clutch burn odor. I think I had it too engaged since it was sorta lugging at a standstill for a bit, but in general is this a bad idea? If I don't go as aggressive as the lugging feeling but slightly release it, am I doing damage?
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