Golf/GTI VI :: Engine Idling Very Rough With EPC Light On
Feb 25, 2011
I was just at work tonight and went out and started my car for it to warm up (it is -20) and go back inside for about 15 mins, I come out and as I am walking back to my car. I notice tons of exhaust is blowing out from the bank puffing like a steam engine and idling insanely rough with the RPM gauge at about 900 RPM with a EPC code. I immediately shut off the car. Cautiously turn the car back on. Car is idling normally, EPC code is gone, rev it a bit. Everything seems fine.
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But I have a mk4 gti 1.8t awp and recently it's been going downhill. Right now my only mods are a fmic, Cai, and a 3 in catless dp to a 2.5 in straight pipe. My car recently starting idling very rough and would practically die, the lights would also dim. While casting the idle was very rough too. Then yesterday my car started idling even worse and dying multiple times, plus my turbo stopped boosting and making what I presume to be the "death whine".
I replaced my spark plugs a few days ago and I checked my timing belt and it looked fine. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either so I'm not sure what would be causing the rough idle? My valve cover gasket leaks and makes my sparks plugs covered in oil but I don't know if that could cause the rough idle. I unplugged my maf and ran it and there was no improvement.
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Weird problem on my Passat today. First the engine light came on...followed by rough idling. It smooths out when moving, but rough again when stopped. Noticed that turning ON the AC makes it a little smoother...but when you turn off the AC, resumes the rough idle.
Already made an appt with the dealer tomorrow...but wanted to see if this problem is familiar to other owners. Either way, I will update once the dealer finishes diagnosing the problem.
The car has been perfect up to 30k miles...now 2 problems in the last month.
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Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
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Went out this morning - which was one of the first times we've dropped to freezing since I've had the R32. Car started fine - but idling was rough - almost felt like it was surging. Rev'd it a few times, no change. Meanwhile the tach malfunction light appeared. I turned it off and then restarted. No tach light and it was idling normally.
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My car is idling rough and the Service Engine light blinks on/off continuously. I ran the codes and they are P0301, P0401 and P1258. What this could be? I changed the plugs, wires and ignition coils about a year ago. Catalytic converter was replaced around the same time but the O2 sensors hasn't been changed. Could that be the cause?
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2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
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I replaced the heater core in my truck this weekend. The only thing I was worried about was pulling the dash. The truck is a 1998 f150 with the 5.4.. Everything went fairy well and decided to replace the AT Shift cable as well. Got everything put back. Truck runs, no leaks, no antifreeze smell. After running about 20 minutes, it started idling a little rough and my check engine light came on.
The codes are p0136, p0156, p1131, and p1151. I know these are related to the OS sensors. My question is could it be as simple as I miss an electrical connection when putting the dash back in? Was thinking possibly somewhere on the passenger side under the kick plate or possibly something while hooking up the heater hoses? Maybe even a ground that didn't get connected back when putting the das back in?
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I have APR state I+ and a VWR intake for the last 14 months. My car normally idles at 800 RPM.
In the last few weeks I've noticed it idling a little rough at ~750 RPM.
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Just noticed the other day the Passat was idling significantly rougher than usual, most of the time it's smooth as butter but not so much lately. It's not rough like a bad misfire, just not very smooth anymore. This could be indicative of the dreaded oil-pump bolt failure rearing it's ugly head (finally)?
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I have an 08 Passat 2.0T with 44k on it, just did the 40k service around 42k. This past Friday I filled up from almost completely empty, and later that day and ever since the engine has been idling rough and the CEL came on. Gas cap has been checked already.
Should I wait to go to the Stealership until I've burned this tank of gas out? Is there anything else I can do that you can think of?
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Our '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
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It could happen once a month or 3 times a day. No pattern and never the first time I start my car for the day. But I will be running errands, park the tiguan, run into a store for 5, 15 or 30 minutes and when I get back in my car and start it up and go, it dies when shifting from 1st to 2nd. I know how to drive stick. This doesn't happen every time. I have called/taken it to the dealer 5 times and they have no clue because it never happens with them and I cannot predict when it will happen again. Also, on occasions, when i start my car, halfway through the day, the engine will idle really rough then the RPM's will spike and the car gives itself gas and my foot is definitely on the brake. These little issues are starting to piss me off, especially since the dealer just shrugs its shoulders.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus with approximately 104,000 miles on it (most highway) and I'm at my wit's end trying to figure out my rough idling situation. When I was at stop light, I would notice a rougher than normal idling but not to the point where stalling would occur. The timing belt was just replaced a year and a half ago and I thought maybe something was wrong with the alternator??? I took it into the shop and they replaced my engine mounts, replaced spark plugs, and did a fuel injector cleaning....? Well not exactly....now the idling is 10x worse to where my entire steering wheel is shaking when I'm stopped at a stop light! The car itself just sounds rough.
No check engine light is on and the idling isn't nearly as bad as when I park the car....a part of me wants to throw in the towel and say it is what it is, but I just have a feeling that something's just not right.
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Just picked up my 2004 Prius from the Toyota dealer body shop. The driver's side was scraped by someone who wanted to be in my lane. Fortunately, we were only going 35 mph. The rear door skin had to be replaced, and most of the side had to be prepped and painted. There are a few silly mistakes: they forgot to replace the driver's door plug, forgot to replace a lower clip, and smudged a tiny area new paint on the bumper. I brought that to their attention and they are going to take care of it... they have to order the plug and clip.
However, as soon as that conversation was complete, it was time for them to close shop. I sat in my Prius, started it, and the check engine light was on. Wasn't on when I dropped it off for the repairs. Also, on the way home, I noticed the engine wasn't turning off when I came to a complete stop (even though the animation says it was off). At idle, the engine is also rough. Looked at the charge bars, and well, there were only two bars showing.
I thought perhaps, though it's not done this before without the animation screen showing it, the engine was on merely to recharge the traction battery. On the way home, the traction battery returned to full charge (green), but the engine still was not turning off when the vehicle was at a complete stop... not was it turning off when coasting... and when arriving home, even with the car in park... and still idling rough. All the while, the animation on the screen is indicating the engine should be off.
When I replaced the traction battery three years ago, I also replaced the 12v with an yellow top Optima. I wouldn't think the Optima is already going bad. I also do not believe in coincidence. I wonder if perhaps some bad fumes have tainted the MAF, or who knows.
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So I bought my accent used a couple months ago. It is a 2007 SE 3dr 5spd manual. It ran nice during my test drive and the price was right so I bought it.
Now I'm wondering if there is any way to find out the service history on the car...at least the major one's (30k, 60k)?
I ask because recently the engine was idling a little rough and it threw a P0302 code so I changed the spark plugs and holy-cruddy-deposits-batman those things were black. Gapped the new ones and popped them in and its a noticeable difference. My CEL keeps coming on and throwing a P0496 code as well, virtually once every tank of gas. Its not the gas cap so my next step there is to check the PCSV and hoses.
With these little problems, it makes me wonder about any larger issues. I know the timing belt on these things is supposed to be replaced at 60k. Additionally I would be willing to bet that my ECM software is out of date. Would Hyundai have records for any of the big maintenance milestones since they are required for warranty work?
How much does it cost to have a dealer check your ECM software and update it if needed?
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Our R32 has 2428 miles- and today the check engine light came on and it started to run pretty rough, babied it home and the the light was blinking when I turned into the driveway.. I know that booklet 3.2 in the owners manual is diagnosing catalytic converter issues...I have always used super unleaded, it hasn't even reached the halfway point of the first service.
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I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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I started my car this morning and drove to work. It's not that cold. I heard knocking sounds coming from the engine at a stop light. I lightly tapped on the accelerator to hear it better. My commute is short (3 miles), so I gingerly cruised there. I didn't try to accelerate and it didn't seem like I was suffering from loss of power either. I opened the hood and let it idol at work and couldn't really hear the knocking sound.
I downloaded the code when I got to work. After that I started the engine again and it sounded pretty normal. I'm due for my oil/filter change (~5500 miles).
Here are the codes. Any reasons to worry, or is this an one-time thing?
2 Faults Found:
001322 - Camshaft Adj. Bank 1 Intake
P052A - 001 - Cold-Start Timing not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
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This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
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