Golf/GTI VI :: ESP / Wheel Slip On A Hard 2nd Gear Pull
Feb 10, 2012
Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.
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I recently bought a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 auto 133000 miles. I have been reading the postS around here about the crappy transmission. My car seems to have some life in the tranny still but it has slipped from 3rd to 4th gear around 45 mph when i get on the gas too hard. Its also a little sluggish to start off. My question is should i change the fluid out knowing i have a slipping issue? The reason i ask is that last time i changed the fluid and filter on a Jeep that was slipping i ended up having to rebuid it. Is that a real possibility if i change the fluid in this Hyundai?
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I'm looking at purchasing a 2003 F-350 from a Ford Dealer, Drove the Vehicle last night and the Gear shiftier was very tight and hard to pull down. Is this a real concern? The Sales guys said its better to be stiff rather than sloppy. But they will say anything, right. The vehicle is a deal and so I'm looking to find out why.
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I have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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As we know, flashing dash lights are a part of owning a Volkswagen. Even moreso a modded Volkswagen. Last night I was treated to my first CEL during 3rd gear pull merging onto the highway. At 4200 RPM, the car cut timing and throttle ferociously and the CEL came on and flashed for about 10 seconds. The road was rough so I anticipated that it was the car registering a knock and Bronson said it could've been that. I pulled over, checked everything I could visually at 1:00 AM and it all seemed fine. Car accelerated and boosted well from then on, on the way home.
This morning I got in for the drive to work and noticed within 2-3 miles that the car was idling strangely. Not long after, the CEL came on. It would surge from 1,000 to 1,300 RPM randomly. I took it back home to pick up my VCDS and my laptop and scanned the following codes:
Code:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
Since then I have checked:
- Intake hoses/clamps
- Intercooler hoses/clamps
- Diverter valve hoses/clamps
- Throttle body pipe/clamps
- PCV hoses (The PCV on the valve cover was replaced by the BFI catch can. It has been on the car for over 6,000 miles with no issues, and all of the fittings are tight.)
- Boost tap hoses/clamps
I reset the codes and drove it to work and all was well, but I'm staying out of boost until I find out what the problem is. The car has stock plugs, stock coils and stock DV and only 7,800 miles.
Thread here with the full VCDS scan: [URL] ....
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So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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The problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
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I have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
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Recently upgraded to a 2015 DSG PP pearl white 2-door GTI. I'm really enjoying the car. It is my third GTI (MK IV, MK VI) but the first automatic. On the morning commute to work today my DSG straight up stopped working. While trying to accelerate from completely stopped at a stop light my transmission seemed to slip out of gear followed by the engine reving freely... A message appeared to "Press Brake". I had to stop my car in the middle of an intersection and then magically the transmission stuck in gear and i made it to the next stop light. Unfortunately at this light I was never able to get my car back in gear... I tried reverse as well as S mode shifting into 2nd or 3rd.
Had to get towed to the nearest dealership... at least I got to try out the carnet feature . Basically it is a glorified operator who will request a local tow truck for you. FYI.. I thought that the service would at least notify the service dept at the dealer it was being towed to (nope!). 5 hours later they gave me my car back saying that the cable between the ECU and DSG had come loose and that was the only problem.
So far the car seems to be driving like a champ again... I'm just a bit concerned as to how a cable can magically come loose and cause my car to be inoperable. The main reason I upgraded from my 2010 gti was the peace of mind that the car was going to be dependable...
A few questions... Is it feasible that a loose cable was the only issue? If so... how can a cable magically come loose after 2200 miles of driving? I could see this being an issue from the manufacturer but would think it would happen much sooner during the break in process.
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Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
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Wanted to ask B6 owners first, from time to time I hear what I think is a backfire after doing a hard pull in 3rd but never in 2nd. Now I'm not sure its a backfire but after I shift to 4th I hear a small pop from the back of the wagon. Don't know if this will happen in 4th after a pull, have not had enough road or balls to do this. ( In Oregon you get a huge ticket and license pulled for 30 days for anything over 100.) Everything runs fine, I only have the Neuspeed intake for the autos and thats it. Any thoughts you B6 owners have B4 I go to the 2.0 fsi page would be great. Here are some pics from the big snow storm we had here in Portland back during xmas. The Thule chains worked great when I was not high centered.
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The 3rd row seat in my 2006 Mazda MPV doesn't secure itself to the two clamps on either side no matter how hard I pull on the back strap. What to do?
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When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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On my wife's '06 Elantra, the hand brake is very hard to pull up, barely getting one click from it. I've done some looking around and have not been able to find a solution to the problem.
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If I brake hard a dozen times, 8 or 9 will be normal, a couple times it will pull to the right but as long as your hands are on the wheel you can barely tell, and maybe once it will pull really hard. I have Hawk super duty pads and Ebc rotors with less than 5k on them and I just replaced the front calipers and hardware because I thought that was the problem.
It's not even consistent. Could possibly be rear calipers (rear also has new Hawk pads and Ebc rotors with less than 3k on them) but I don't think it would pull that hard. Tire pressure is even between sides btw.
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1997 licoln continental, automatic. Around first and second gear, the car hesitates to pull and will 'jerk'. While it's doing this the car can be revved unsynchronized as it will try to 'jerk' it's way past around 1st and 2nd gear. Eventually, it smooths out after it's into 3rd gear and drives normally though after roughly getting through 1st and 2nd.
In 1st and 2nd gear, if the gas is let off for a bit before smoothing out.. it will often sometimes completely come out of gear, not pulling from any power given. If it does, after popping out of gear the car will not go back into gear, even from a complete stop from 'park' then trying to put it back into 'drive'..no response to power given. However, it goes back into gear just fine, roughly again, if you turn the car completely off and put it back into 'drive'. Obviously, the car also will hesitate even worse on an incline from a dead stop.
Another note, there is a slight wobble to the crankshaft pulley.. though, i feel this issue is completely unrelated to a harmonic balancer noting that the car just pops out of gear and goes back in gear just fine when it is turned back off then back on.....but, not unless the car is completely turned off?What would the obvious culprit be...? Torque converter?
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I just finished the DG install yesterday. I am having a real problem with the first gear: it is really hard to shift into it (I mean hard!) - and several times I went into 3rd believing it was in 1st, while driving. I know that the DG is notchy and a little stiffer (which I like) but this does not feel right. I have to really push hard (moving slightly toward reverse) to shift into 1st. My wife would never be able to find it or shift into it (not that I let her drive my R that much...).
Note that all the other gears (2,3,4,5,6 and reverse) shift beautifully without any effort with that nice click. But not 1st.
What is it? Adjustment? I did it twice. I made sure that both cables were "all the way in" before tightening the first two bolts (and I made sure that the cables were not moving - a common problem with this install) with the engine lock on and pin in.
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I have a 2006 that shuts off in a hard pull, if I wait 3 minutes it starts again. I hooked up my scan tool and when it dies and I crank it it only builds 200psi oil pressure, let it sit it builds enough pressure to run fine. If I dont push it over 3500psi for more than minute it wont die pull a hill it dies again. Is it the hpop or an o-ring.
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On my V6 tdi , the converter bypass coupling is closed very late : generally in the third gear arround 2200rpm. In second gear i found that the transmission slip a lot.
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My 2002 excursion 7.3 is acting weird when in drive. I have to get to around 2k rpm to get moving and hard shifts. But if I put it in 1st it has no problem but in 2nd i have hard vibration that shakes whole truck.
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