Golf/GTI VI :: EPC Light Came On - Engine Now Running Only On Three Cylinders
Dec 2, 2012
Last night I was cruising at about 55 when the EPC light came on. At first, I didn't feel anything unusual, but shortly after exiting onto a surface street the engine was definitely running on three cylinders. I immediately turned around and drove the four or five miles home (still on three cylinders) and parked it.
My car is a 2011 with 21K miles. I had an APR flash (Stage 1) done about 2 months ago. (I'm not saying that there's necessarily a connection.) What might be going on? I plan to take it to the dealer tomorrow after resetting to stock program (though I understand it can still be detected). Is it okay to drive it? (Assuming that it will start.)
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Bought a fixer upper 2001 v10 and it's definitely not running on all cylinders. Also the check engine light is not on and the PCM is not saying it's on (per my code reader) and it doesn't come on when I turn the key on.
Is it possible the previous owner had a programmer of some sort to disable the CEL? If the bulb were removed my scan tool would still show it on. Trying to get it to tell me which cylinders I am having trouble with.
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So my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
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What to do next. Engine is running on 4 cylinders, #1, 4, 5, 8. Had a mice nest on top of injector #2. Removed mice nest. The mice had chewed through wire for #2 injector and caused bear lead rubbing on the block. One lead rubbed through. Repaired, splised in a wire. Also changed rotor, rotor cap, all sparkplug leads and plugs.
Troubleshooting.
Compression on all 8 cylinders measured to be above 160 psi.
There is spark to all 8 cylinders, including the other 4 cylinders, 2, 3, 6, 7 that is nor developing power.
Fuel rail pressure is 35 psi on idle and spikes to 43 when reving the engine.
The fuel injector resistance all all measured injectors are the same (about 14.8 Ohm). Measured injector # 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8. Injector # 3 and 4 is hidden and require too much disassembly. Visual inspection deems wire for #3 and 4 injector to be ok on top of block.
Electric impulse (tested while engine was running) to injector # 1, 5 and 8 are ok, used test lamp to see that there are electric impulse to the injectors. Injector #2, 6 and 7 does not have any electric impulse. Unable to check electric impulse to # 3 and 4. However cylinder #4 develops power. Used moving the sparkplug wire for cylinder #4 to verify that is is developing power.
What would my next step be? Where should i look next?
1. Where is the control module and is it likely to fire to only 4 cylinders
2. Could it be an wire in the pickup element, under the distributor. All wires seem intact.
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My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
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Is it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
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Today my check engine light turned on, not sure why car is still running perfectly fine ( from what i can tell ) .
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Our R32 has 2428 miles- and today the check engine light came on and it started to run pretty rough, babied it home and the the light was blinking when I turned into the driveway.. I know that booklet 3.2 in the owners manual is diagnosing catalytic converter issues...I have always used super unleaded, it hasn't even reached the halfway point of the first service.
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So my temp light comes on in my 2002 gti 1.8t. The light comes on with the engine cold and not running, just keys in. I replaced the temp sender and the fan switch. I already checked the fuses, still good. The only thing i can think of now is the relay. There is plenty of coolant in the system as well. And I am not getting any CEL.
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I started my car this morning and drove to work. It's not that cold. I heard knocking sounds coming from the engine at a stop light. I lightly tapped on the accelerator to hear it better. My commute is short (3 miles), so I gingerly cruised there. I didn't try to accelerate and it didn't seem like I was suffering from loss of power either. I opened the hood and let it idol at work and couldn't really hear the knocking sound.
I downloaded the code when I got to work. After that I started the engine again and it sounded pretty normal. I'm due for my oil/filter change (~5500 miles).
Here are the codes. Any reasons to worry, or is this an one-time thing?
2 Faults Found:
001322 - Camshaft Adj. Bank 1 Intake
P052A - 001 - Cold-Start Timing not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
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I have an old 2000 Ford Taurus that has been having some misfire issues. I replaced the wires and plugs about a year ago and hooray! it worked... until about a month ago when the check engine light came one. Misfire in cylinders 1 and 3... again. I ran some SeaFoam through and it did okay until this week, when the warning/flashing check engine light came back.
It is idling very hard (expected) and feels like it is trying to stall, even before the misfire came back (also to be expected??). So here is the question: is this a coil pack issue, or something more sinister (and expensive)?
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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I have a 2008 RX350 with 68k on the clock. Received a check engine light for random misfire (P0300) and misfire on Cylinder 4 (P0304), Cylinder ,5 (P0305) ,Cylinder 6 (P0306). Question is what will be causing this to happen. I thought about changing the spark plugs to see if this is possibly the cause. but what else should i be checking?
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I have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7L engine. Replaced water pump and spark plugs. We triple checked the alignment on the chain and are sure the timing is fine. Car started right up. Now running rough idle and engine light comes on. Codes read misfires on 1, 3, and 5 cylinders.
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I just been told my volvo 850 estate is backfiring and running on 4 cylinders instead of 5. I have been told he will have to run diagnostics and go from there.
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I have a supra that is only running on the first and last cylinder. It was running poor and I pulled off the spark plug wires to see how it ran. After more testing I removed all 4 middle plug wires and it kept running the exact same. What would be causing this? The plugs and wires are new.
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Friend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
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A couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
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2001 Santa Fe with 2.4 engine auto FWD 198k miles. When it is started first in the day, the engine sounds good and shifts well. After a few minutes and also after stops, first gear works well but then the following gears do not work well almost as if the engine and the transmission quit talking to each other. Traveling at 60 mph starting up a medium hill, the car downshifted and could not pick a gear. Although I pushed the pedal harder, the car did not respond rather continued to slow down. It acts like I lose 2 of the 4 cylinders in all cases. I replaced the spark plugs and two of them had oil on top of the plugs and also all around the threads. I replaced both coils thinking that one of them was the issue but no change has been observed. I replaced the throttle position sensor; no performance change. I do not believe it is the transmission as I have not notice any clunking, or bad shifting when starting out. While coasting at 40 mph in neutral and my pedal pressed at a certain position, the rpm gauge fluctuated from 3k to 3.6k many times for the duration of 20 seconds.
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My 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo has 60,000 careful miles on the odometer. It began stumbling, like running on 3 cylinders, when started cold. Time of day and moisture make no difference. New Cold Start and Air Flow Sensors have worked a little, but it still has the stumbles about half the time when started cold.
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I have a sludge problem with this a 2008 infinity EX 35 . The car was initially stalling and had been in service at the dealership several times . Error codes were present and they didnt know what the cause was . They replace spark plugs and tried to find a bandied rather find the cause , Now they are claiming they cant do anything for the sludge issue and blaming it on poor maintenance .. the oil was changed ever 3000 . they have the records of this also. They talked about flushing the engine , but stated it doesn't work Is this vehicle prone to sludge . Its only running on 5 cylinders instead of 6 per dealer.
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