Golf/GTI VI :: EPC Light Came On - Car Shut Off At 75mph
Apr 23, 2014
Ok, so I was driving to work this morning and the car was fine. I went to pass someone in the fast lane and when I stepped on the gas it started to build boost, then the engine cut off and the EPC light came on. I turned the car off and then back on, so I tried to accelerate hard again and same thing happened. I can accelerate, but only mid throttle (1-5 psi) as soon as the boost starts to build (6-10 psi) the car literally shuts down. I was able to make it to work, but was worried i wasn't going to make it, the car seemed to sputter on the highway. I don't believe it is a coil issue, I have R8 plugs that i put in 20-30k ago, but I am not 100% maybe spark plugs?
Car is a GTI with 76XXX miles, 6 speed, and stage 2 apr. I have the car in stock mode with all stock parts on.
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Okay, so I was looking for a parking spot and my car just shut down. I didn't think much of this at the time because i was rushing to take a class for school. On my way home I was on the freeway going 75mph and it SHUT down again. So what happened was it was in drive and the the motor just stopped running and I costed in the gore zone. So I tried to start it and it wouldn't, I gave a few seconds and removed the key then tried again and it started. when I got closer to my house it happened again and this time through a CEL and the oils pressure and battery light were flashing and on the screen it said "STOP!" I did the same thing and got it to my house. Whats going on????
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Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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Today my car for one of the many times has shut off while i was braked at a red light. Car will be running fine and then i see the cluster shut off, car bog down and then the ignition is killed. I then have to put the car in park and turn over the car. Happened about a hand full of times over the past year. Why it might be happening? Possibly fuel line replacement?
In addition, the car also is having an electrical issue somewhere that makes the car shut off the ecu and restart it. From that, the cluster resets the time , the trip counter resets to zero with the radio shutting off completely, and wiping the AM/FM presets. I believe this could be from a short somewhere in the alpine stereo system the car has and the possible LED floor lights that are tapped into the 12V Cigarette lighter in the dash.
04' Golf Gl 2.0L, Auto, 87xxx miles.
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I have a 03 jetta 1.8t the asr light comes on and stays on and i cant shut it off if i turn the car off it goes off and then like 10 min later it comes on. Why its happening
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When I started the r the idle was bouncing between 500-900rpms, start driving as soon as I start to slow down the car would shut off and the battery light lights up. When it stopped shutting off on me when I slowed down/pushed in the clutch the esp light came on and wont go off ....
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So I was driving home yesterday, drove fine for about 14mi. Then I got a oil pressure low warning light shut off engine. The engine sounded no weird noises or anything so I shut it off checked the oil and it was full and fairly clean. Started it back up sounded fine drove it almost all the way home and it came back on, again no noises and oil was full. I noticed though that it came on mostly coming to a stop or taking off when the rpms hit about 1500-1700.
So I went to the shop I work at and hooked a pressure gauge up and I got 15psi. At idle and 35psi. at 2000rpms. With the engine temp in the normal range. I got the spec from all data which only shows the spec for the 2000 rpm range no idle spec, which was 29psi-65psi I think. So it sounded like it was okay. So I went to advance got a new oil pressure switch it didn't work.
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So leaving work yesterday I noticed my coolant light was on. I checked the coolant level and it was like under an inch below the min level.
I decided to try to drive it a few miles to the dealership for coolant, keeping an eye on the temperature. When taking the exit to get to the dealership the car shut off and the battery light came on. I started it back up and it ran fine the remaining 50 feet until I got to the dealer. I parked it in the service lane and checked the coolant again and it I had almost no coolant in the resevior. I'm almost sure I need a waterpump, which was my first assumption the second I started the car. What I'm wondering is why the car shut off while driving. The engine temperature didn't change the whole way there but I'm wondering if it could be that the car thought it could soon over heat, so it cut the power, or if it could be something else.
The car is a stage 2 2013 GTI with 24k miles.
TLDR~ Can a mk6 gti that is low on coolant shut itself off the protect itself from overheating? Could coolant have leaked onto something to make it shut off? Or do you think it would be for another reason?
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Was driving just a few hundred feet up the road to local mini mart. On the way home after pulling out of the shop, my battery light flickered once and twice before staying on. I circled around the block to see if it would go away, but it was still on when I parked in my driveway. I noticed a ticking noise in the engine bay, but decided to turn it off.
About 10 minutes later, I turned the car back on. Battery light still on, noise still evident in the bay. I popped the hood and it's coming by the serpentine belt. That seemed to be running fine over there and couldn't see anything that looked out of the ordinary. I went in the car to rev up the engine a bit and turn on my lights, and that's when the symptoms got weirder. My RPMs jumped to about 1,000 and stayed there (even when I let on the gas a bit); my blowers would work (but not the screen showing the temp); CD player turned off; and I got a cluster full of lights on my dash. The car would idol rough when turning lights on and off.
It eventually shut off, and now there is no crank or nothing. All lights still work, alarm works, but no turn over or clicking. I'm going to try and get it jumped when able to, but I'm not sure what the problem could be. I can't find the exact paperwork, but I had the alternator replaced at around 85,000 miles.
Car Specs:
2003 GTI VR6 24V
110,000 miles
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I have a 2001 Passat (automatic, Turbo) On the highway, the engine shakes from about 65-75mph. When I hit around 80 (3000rpm) it seems like the Turbo kicks in and it isn't as bad. I noticed on my last oil change bill that they didn't put in synthetic oil even though they said they did. The people who I bought it from said they had engine problems when using regular and to only use synthetic. Could this be causing it? If not, what could it be?
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Whenever i hit speeds between 65-75 mph my steering wheel starts to vibrate enough so i can see it and feel it. Not a crazy amount just enough so i can see it moving and can feel it. I have 14000 miles on my Touareg and just had the tires balanced at the dealer hoping that would be the problem..
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Well last night on my way home after work (2:30 AM) I was on the turnpike and puff my car shut down and anti theft immobilizer light started blinking and the car won't start got it tow....
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Was driving vehicle on highway at 75mph (speed limit) and the engine cut off. Just prior to this event, the vehicle was acting sluggish when stepping on the gas pedal. It took the vehicle from 5-10 seconds to respond to the acceleration requests.
Up until this point, the vehicle would work normally except for the transmission, (we've always had a problem with this from day 1), the GMC mechanics said they even took the trany apart and put it back together and couldn't find any issues. The transmission, when moving from a stopped position will not engage into gear for several seconds (4s - 7s) and when it does, the van pops into gear, jerking the van.
Vehicle: 2004 GMC Savana 1500 passenger Van
Mileage: 105,000
History: has had regular oil changes/tuneups
Primary Issue: Engine shut off while driving at 75mph
Secondary Issue: Tranny pops into gear after delay from stopped position (from park to drive or park to reverse)
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I bought a 2003 Vw Gti 1.8t ... What to do or look for when something goes wrong . About a two months after driving it, it won't idle and it shuts off while in Neutral . I've done my research and i believe he didn't install the BOV in right, only bc it is not recirculates the air. Make sense? Is there ANYTHING i can do so it will run better and idle?
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I commute 180 miles a day, 6 days a week. I noticed metal on metal grinding noise(more noticeable) at high speed above 75mph especially on asphalt road. I'm sure noise is there at low speed but not enough to notice. My car has 50,000 miles. Tires? Electric motor?
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Yesterday, I was driving from PA to THE (beaches), about a 2 1/2 hour drive. The car was running fine the whole time, no problems. I get to about the last 15min of the drive where the highway ends and it enters the town with stop lights. I get to the first stop light and stop of course and while I am sitting there my car just shut down. Everything just went right off, Headlights, gauges, radio, I mean everything. It wasnt like a stall, It was the weirdest thing as if I just removed the key really fast. Everything was reset when I turned it back on, Clock went back to 12, Headunit went back to standard settings, and I lost my awesome 24.8mpg I have been working on! After the light turned green I turned the car back on and drove into a parking lot to see if the battery was ok. Everything in the engine seemed good it sounded fine, and the battery was hooked up all tight.
Anyway It freaked me out the rest of the way and tomorrow when I leave I am a little nervous. That could be pretty terrifying if it happened while I was moving, especially at night time. Something I should check or bring to a dealer to get looked at. I am not throwing a check engine light or anything. The car has been starting up fine everyday for the past 2 months. Prior to that the car sat in a garage for about two months (being turned on and moved around every week or so)
Mods (engine or electrical): If this is necessary
-Intake
-Short Shifter
-Double Din (with Nav)
-Flapper Mod (on Switch)
-Helix Headlights with HID drop ins
-Air horns
-All of these mods have been on the car for at least a year
Most recent mod was a skid plate which I have been hitting a lot of things with but I dont see how that could in any way affect this..
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So my girlfriend drives a 2010 gti with DSG trans. Recently she was pulling out of a driveway onto a main road when her car basically stalled out and shut off on her. This has only happened the one time, but where she was pulling out was onto a 45 mph rd, pretty scary place to shut down.
I had her take it to the dealer and they found no faults and said her software and everything is up to date. She keeps up with her maintenance.. It's certainly concerning knowing that this could happen and can't be reproduced at the dealer to diagnose.
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Overnight here, it dropped into the single digits. My GTI VI's windows were frozen shut with ice. I attempted to roll down the windows a couple times with the button, in addition to some light pounding with my fist and they wouldn't budge. I'd like to know if there can be damage from attempting to roll down frozen windows with the automatic control and if so, what type of damage.
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Just drove home with the AC on full blast in 100F and the fan did not continue running at all when I shut off the car. Every other car I have had with an electric fan keeps the fan going for some time to cool the engine.
I had my car in to the dealer last fall and they did a body control module update that I thought was going to fix this. Although it did manage to kill the sunroof closing VAGCOM hack, it did not apparently fix the coolant fan issue.
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When my car is idling(usually with the A/C on) my car seems to shut off randomly. There is a hissing noise that comes right below the cluster or by the ignition. Stepping on the gas will make the noise go away but will come back when idling. There has been times when I have turned off my car by just rolling down the windows. Usually when I lock the car with the remote, the horn sounds really low and weak. There are also times when my passenger door does not unlock with the key remote.
I have no aftermarket electronics installed in my car but just a usp test pipe. I have scanned for codes and this is what I got:
P0430-Catalytic Converter System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0420-Catalytic Converter System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
I am assuming these codes have nothing to do with the type of short I have but the usp I have installed.
Here is a video: [URL] ....
I DID NOT turn off the car. It shut off by itself.
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Ok, so every now and then when I turn my car on it will feel as though it's not getting enough power, and will make a sound like "prum prum prum prum", and then if I touch the gas it will choke and shut off. If I try starting it again it won't even start, I'd have to wait 3-8 minutes or so and try starting it and when it does start, I give it some gas, rev it to maybe 3-4k rpm, and it will be A-OK and drive with no problems. Now this doesnt happen every day. I may use my car 4-6 times in one day and it will start no problem. The next day I try using it, it will do "its thing" and will not start.
Now, when it does "its thing" my ESP light or traction control light goes off and the light stays until I start it again but even if I try turning it off with the ESP switch it doesn't work. I'm guessing the problem could be either the fuel pump, fuel filter, or alternator but I'm not exactly a mechanic, nor do I know a load about cars either.
Finally got the codes all 9 of them :
p0491
p0492
p2401
p0057
p0037
p0031
p0051
p0141
p0161
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