I have had my airride for a few months now, and it is time to drain the water from the air tank. I have a water trap that I use every time i fill up at a gas station, but I would like to drain the tank to make sure there is not water built up in there. I have scoured the interwebs and have not came across a video or specific set of instructions on how to do this.
View 8 RepliesYesterday I found that the water tank is empty, and when I added some water I noticed that there a white foam on the surface of the water, it smells like oil. could it be leaking from engine or gearbox ??
View 1 RepliesI have a 73 commando and if it sits for a couple of days the glass fuel filter goes dry and I have to pump and pump the accelerator to get it to start. I guess the fuel is draining back down into the gas tank. Had a carb kit put in. Go to a electric pump?
View 2 RepliesHaving an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
I had all components on a/c replaced. Problem is I can't find out why it's not draining water off the evaporator. I have looked under the truck to find the drain tube but there is not one. Is something wrong here? After driving the truck for 30 to 45 mins the air starts to get hot and it starts to lose fast air flow from vents. If I shut the a/c off for an hour the a/c will work and then it starts the same thing over again.
View 4 RepliesAnyway, Just bought a used 2015 F350. I want to drain the water separator as the dealer can't tell me when it was done last. Anyway, I read how to do it, but once you drain it, what do you do with the diesel that drains out with?
View 14 RepliesI just noticed my 13 FX4 isn't draining water, but I checked inside and the carpets feel dry. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but the wifes Jeep always has a huge puddle under it. I'm sure the drain is somewhere under all that silver sound deadener. Is this common?
View 3 RepliesJust sopped up about a quart of water on the pass side floor. the wiring harness channel (along the door on the floor) was full as was the corner where the fuse box is along with the whole jutting up to the seat!
Was thinking I has a windshield leak, tested out fine. I have alot of AC water draining under the truck, thought that ws O.K. too. Then did an experiment after dryin the floor and juting.
peeled it all back and ran the AC for 20 minutes till I had a good puddle on the ground, and sure enough the "joint" lowest and closest to the tranny tunnel was dripping. Thinking the box is full of water now. Where is the actual drain hole for the AC? can't find it under the "heat shield" crap under the truck.
2013 f250 6.7 yesterday during drive through heavy rain fall noticed some clean water draining on my bare feet on passenger side of the truck right below glove compartment.
View 6 RepliesI have 2006 ford f250 6.0 diesel. I was changing the fuel filter on the frame rail and noticed a lot of dirt in the housing . I tried to remove the plug to drain water to see if i could get out some of the dirt. But the bolt just turned and wouldn't come out. It wouldn't tighten either. I went ahead and cleaned as much dirt as i could and changed the filter. How to get the bolt out....... I just bought the truck so i don't have any prior maintenance history...
View 4 RepliesMy vehicle:
1976 F150 2wd Extended cab
390 4bbl
c6 transmission
4BBL Edlebrock Carb
Dual fuel tanks, only rear main tank connected
My problem: For the first year I owned the truck, everything ran fine and it started up really quickly even after it sat for a few days or a few weeks. I have since, for about the last year or so, had to crank it for 30-45 seconds to get it to start. This all started around the time my fuel pump went out. I replaced it with an Airtex fuel pump from Autozone. I also installed a glass in line filter before the carb in front of the distributor.
I noticed that after about 4-6 hours, the fuel had drained out of the filter and that's when I would have to crank it forever to get it going. It also seems like there is no fuel in the carb as it doesn't even try to start when it first gets cranked. I thought this was a bad pump, so I bought a new one last week and tried it again. Sure enough after about 4-6 hours, everything is empty again and it takes forever to start it. So it's not a bad pump, or so I think.
The other day I backed it into my driveway and left it, something I never do. I checked about 4 days later and there was still fuel in the filter. This makes me think that gravity is making it drain back to the tank.
Is there something that would cause this? Also I have found a one way fuel check valve online that is supposed to remedy this type of problem. Do they work for this situation? Or is there something else I should be doing to fix this? It has taken a bit of a toll on my starting system having to crank so long all the time. I have so far had to replace my starter, starter solenoid, and all the battery cables, starter cable, terminals, etc. due to excessive wear.
The valve I found is here : [URL] .....
I just got back to town with my Supra, 298,000 mi, 7M-GE 3.0L engine. I think I picked up some bad gas on the road. It's acting like I've got dome water in the tank. I've already run a couple of tankfuls. I know the proper way to fix this is to drop the tank and clean it out. But, I can't do that until this weekend, maybe. It's been a couple of decades since I dealt with this. What can I add to the gas to get rid of some of it until I can drop the tank?
View 19 RepliesHow can I test to find out if there is water in my fuel tank , fuel lines, etc. The symptoms are obvious, how do I test for sure. In the event that I'm correct, what can I do to get it out of the tank and fuel system.
I suspect that a lower form of life has put water in the gas tank of my 2003 Escape 3.0L . I sent it to a shop, that was a nightmare . They came up with every misfire and etc. Including bad windshield wipers burned out light bulbs .
Trying to sell me new coils plugs , etc etc ... even though I kept telling them that of course its misfiring if there is water in the fuel. Please test for water in the gas .
I finally went and took the car with intake plenum pulled off. Paid them half of R&R for pulling the plenum and I'm back to square one. They did everything but check for water in my gas tank or fuel lines.
2003 Pontiac Sunfire, 103K miles, a little overdue for an oil change, but no major (or minor) problems before now:
Last Monday my car was running fine until, on my way out of town, I gassed up. Immediately, my car started acting strange: immediately died upon leaving the station, didn't want to start, RPMs all over the place, acceleration & braking weren't responding properly, TERRIBLE idling, difficult handling at higher speeds (>45 mph), check engine light eventually came on, as well as the battery light (for just a minute).
Needless to say, I decided not to go out of town and took the car to a local mechanic (by this time the car was dying regularly and absolutely did not want to start). This morning he told me that I have water in my fuel tank and detailed a draining process that sounds expensive. However, after reading several "water in gas tank" threads on here, I'm skeptical. As a young woman living the in the South, I'm sure you all can understand my suspicion. So, is he giving me the run around? For what it's worth, I do live in southern Louisiana - hot, humid, rains daily - water isn't exactly scarce here.
Hesitation and power loss have returned. I removed all four spark plugs and found that the spark plug on the driver side of the engine, or side closest to the inverter, and its coil pack were covered in dried/sticky oil with no loose oil present around them. Pics added to new post #11 of coil pack and spark plug.
I couldn't find anything that really matched the symptoms I was having this afternoon on the way home from work. After letting the engine idle for about a minute to get through Stage 1, I pulled out of work but noticed I kept hearing a slight whining from the inverter (radio was off and windows were down) while going uphill on the road out of our parking lot. Speed was in the range of 25 to 30 MPH.
Torque showed I was pulling between 10 and 20 amps from the HV battery but what I noticed that was REALLY weird was that the timing advance gauge showed I was running around 2 to 3 degrees (?) instead of normally being around 13 or 14+ depending on how quickly I'm accelerating.
And the more acceleration I demanded, the the more amps were coming from the battery and the RPMs on the engine would go up, but the timing advance still remained below 10 degrees. I didn't hear any knocking but I could definitely feel the lack of power.
I am new to the R32 but I have a 2nd owner 60k 2004. The battery keeps draining, put the new one in and it was good for a day. If you jump it, it will work for about 2days and then it is drained down to 3 to 4 volts. No lights or readout on gauges. I am stumped.
View 16 Replies2016 Autobahn about 5 weeks old - A couple of weeks ago I noticed a DEEP pool of water in the rear passenger floorboard.
I thought a kid spilled a bottle of water or something, but now two weeks later, it's still there.
It is just water, there's been zero rain here in CA, and no recent car washing.
I believe it is from the wife's trip to work and back when she runs the AC the entire way.
I just went out and ran the ac for 20 minutes, and there is zero water dripping from under the vehicle.
1) where is the condensation drain line? I hear it's along the firewall in the engine compartment.
2) What else could cause the condensation line to drain to the interior?
3) What about the carpet? Any chance at the dealer if we push for replacement?
Coming back from Busch Gardens today. Filled up at a Shell. Got on the road and within minutes got a check engine light and the throttle started surging like when you have water in the tank (know from past experience-don't ask). Is the check engine light what would come on if I had water in the tank?
I was able to make it home after adding one bottle of dry-gas but the car is still doing it...major loss of power during mid-level throttle. I was able to keep the engine light from coming on if I was very careful with the throttle and kept the revs around 3K or higher.
Hate to take it to the stealership if not necessary. Burned 1/4 tank of gas on the way home. Should I add a second bottle of dry-gas and top off the tank with fresh gas before taking it in? Don't want to damage injectors or?
My friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
Clutch for the AC Compressor will not disengage even with the AC off. The only way I can daily the car is if I disconnect the power from the AC Compressor at the compressor itself. Seems the AC compressor has a constant draw if it is plugged in.
Plugged = dead battery...
Unplugged = good battery...
I'm getting ready to rip the damn thing off the engine and calling it a day, but that would defeat the purpose of me buying a new compressor.
After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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