Golf/GTI VI :: Does Not Start - Fan Runs On After Switched Off
Dec 11, 2015
A fault has returned. Last spring the 1.6 diesel Golf (105HP) would not start.
The RAC first diagnosed a faulty battery and replaced it. Then they diagnosed a faulty start solenoid.
My local service garage replaced the starter. Had good reliable starting for 6months. Two days ago my car would not start.
RAC diagnosed a suspect poor engine earth strap. "Get it fixed."
But when I got home and switched off, I noticed that the radiator fan had turned on at full speed. and ran and ran very noisily. I switched on the ignition and the fan went off.
Switched off the ignition and near silence, A little background hum and this stopped when the dash went out about a 20second delay. Then about 30seconds later the fan came on at full speed.
I checked again about 15minutes later, still full speed.
Attached my battery charger, so that I would not have a flat battery in the morning. It finally went off after about 40minutes.
Last night I came home and the same fan on after a delay of about a minute after switch off.
This time the fan was still running after 90minutes. Attached the battery charger again and went to bed.
The fan was off at 0730hrs, but at 0745hrs it was back on after standing in sub zero conditions all night.
Even with the charger working the battery is virtually flat, because the fan is drawing more current than the charger can supply.
I disconnected the battery and it's on charge now. Hopefully It'll have enough charge to get me to the shops and back (22mile round trip and typical of my running, the nearest big town is 20 miles away). What is going on?
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In my 2001 2.0, my AC has been blowing hot air for a while now. It was intermittent at first but now is constant.
The compressor runs without going off when the AC is switched on. I can tell because I see the compressor clutch engaged and spinning.
I tested with AC manifold gauges and these are the readings I got.
Engine off : Low is 0, High is 135
Engine on, AC on full blast after running 10 min at 1500 RPM:
Low is 4, High is 135
Looks pretty bad.
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I got 2000 tdi with 270000km on it and have a few issues with it and am looking for some information before i start doing some work to it.
First problem excessive blue smoke on start up also runs ruff tell it warms up.
Second the is a screeching noise on start up some times. happens most of the time when the car is cold.
Third sounds like something is dragging or rattling but i have checked and there is i can see.
Fourth when the clutch is in and the brake is on the car runs ruff at idle. i think it has something to do with vacuum used for the brake booster but not sure.
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I recently bought a 2010 Hyundai Elantra GLS with about 40k on it. It was driving perfectly fine for about a week until the car would start jerking as the gears switched (I should note I switched the car out of ECO mode when I got it because I found it harder to accelerate with it on. The ECO mode keeps the transmission in higher gears to support fuel economy). I went to my shop and had the transmission fluid flushed and replaced. The car switches gears a lot better now, but another problem seemed to arise. About a mile or so after turning the car on and driving, it will switch into neutral for 3-5 seconds until I hit the gas hard enough for it to catch on and move. I've had multiple experienced people drive it around for awhile and they seem to find everything completely perfect with the car. Could it just be the way I drive, turning ECO mode off, or could something actually be wrong with the transmission or other parts?
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So according to the manual that comes with the car, "ESC is switched on all the time." There are only instructions for turning off traction control.
Why Electronic Stability Control sucks: "Then there is the ESP. I don't even plan on bringing this car to the track until this is resolved. Last thing I need is the car thinking it needs to pull my throttle or apply the brakes because it thinks I'm 'out of control.' That is just an accident waiting to happen."
So how to turn off stability control yet? I'm kind of hoping APR (or any other tuner) would include some sort of flash with their tune that makes the 'ESP OFF' button also disable stability control (and not just traction control).
These guys disabled ESP by pulling a fuse. the only problem is that it also disables ABS and a couple lights : [URL] ....
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Went from this
to this
But now for some reason both of my reverse lights aren't working...
Since my first post the jetta has come a long way. still has a longer way to go.
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My car was sitting outside and wasnt started for about 4 months. It has a brand new battery so when I went to start it, it started right up first crank, ran smooth for 10 seconds then you hear the sound of a ton of water being bubbled and pushed out the exhaust, then the car studders and turned off. There was a big puddle of water near the exhaust. I tried starting the car the day after a few times and all it does is crank but will not start, battery is 100% and its cranks with no problem but will not start at all, it's like dead, the check engine light went on after trying to crank it today too. I'm lost. I figured there was too much water pressure in the exhaust but nope won't start now, the battery is good, electronics are good, has fresh gas, not sure about the lines but like I said it started right up yesterday.
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She parked it in garage. The Hy Batt indicated all green bars. She may not have pressed the Park button before Power - I do that a lot too.
This AM I changed the spark plugs before I tried to start it. I then started it (ICE & started-sounded OK) and backed it DOWN the driveway into the street and started down the street. The ICE stopped.
The batt indicated one blue bar so the batt would not propel it. After trying a couple times to make it run, I disconnected the 12v grd and let it sit for an hour. Then I reconnected the batt and the ICE again started showing hybrid at 4 blue bars and stopped after a few seconds. Tried it once or twice more, same thing.
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1995 G20 5.7L... This van runs great when first started and continues to run fine after it's warmed up and will do so until it’s turned off and restarted. When first started vacuum at idle is steady at 21” and 10” at 55mph cruising speed. I can continue driving for an hour or so and it will continue to run fine. It's only when I shut it down and restart after 20 minutes or so that I have a rough running condition. After parking for 10 to 20 minutes and restarting idle is still steady at 21” vacuum but the van hesitates on acceleration and runs rough at cruise with a 5” vacuum. If I continue to drive I get low vacuum trouble codes for the MAP and Oxygen sensors. I’ve replaced the oxygen sensor and performed a diagnostic on the MAP sensor which checks out ok. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks – none found. I've replaced the spark plugs, cap and rotor. What to look at next?
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I'm working on my sons 1985 Celica GT 22RE. He was having problems with it running rough.
I've isolated it down to the number 1 cylinder being starved on warm starts. If you cold start it the problem does not occur but if you let it sit warm for 15 minutes it will fire up but nothing from number one cylinder. Lots of spark but no firing. So I'm going to tear down the EFI and move the injector to see if the problem follows it. Will probably see if I'm getting any voltage to the injector while rough before tearing down.
I can't find anything about an injector not working once warm so I'm thinking it may be an ECU problem.
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I have a 89 dodge dakota and it starts sometimes and other times it don't start at all. When it does start and runs for a few min it will randomly die and when I try to start it after it dies it wont start back up. Me and my dad just fixed the starter relay yesterday and it started every time after that, now today it wont start. New coil, fuel pump, and fuel filter are new.
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Can't find a thing wrong with it, no codes. Runs great down the street but backing out of the garage from cold start, it barely runs.
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I have a 93 Camry that quit on the highway. No spark, crack in condensor replaced distributer. Still not run. Rotor not turning, replaced timing belt, main engine fuse heating up replaced that. Now it starts right up but only runs 10 minutes. Then won't restart until several hours go by then it will start again. Runs like a champ when it starts.
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Often, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.
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I'm having a weird issue with my 1998 Ford ZX2. The car is very hard to start when cold and it runs extremely rough, but only through my first acceleration under load. In other words, I can rev the engine a few times while in neutral, and it will run very rough, and once I start driving, it runs really rough through my first acceleration, but then it smooths out and runs fine from then on until I stop it and let it call off for 30 minutes or more. If I restart it within 30 minutes or so, everything is fine, but any longer that that and the problem reappears.
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My engine seems to misfire when I first start out and then runs smoothly. The first mechanic got a random misfire from the diagnostic and replaced all the cylinder coils which worked for about a week. The second mechanic ran a diagnostic which said random misfire and he said it was a loose spark plug. This worked for 4 days then it started misfiring again. There's no violent shaking or backfiring. I don't know much about cars but it seems odd that it doesn't keep misfiring. It's a 2006 jeep Liberty with 87,000 miles...
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Anyway for about two weeks ago I went to start up the vehicle and it would turn over, run for about 2 seconds, and then turn off and did that about 5 or 6 times. Knowing very little about cars I had a friend try to jump me, and nothing, still wouldn't turn on. So I left the car there, came back five days later. It started and ran, and I drove straight to the mechanic. I had noticed my belt whistling a little so he put on a new built, fix a power steering pump fluid leak, and put on a new belt tensioner.
Anyway, I pick it up a week ago and it starts up no problem. Today the problem has started again. Some times now though it will start up, run for a little while and then just shut off. Doesn't seem to make a difference whether I am idling or not. Sometimes now though it will turn over, but not actually fire up and start.
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I bought a '99 MX-5 in the fall with 100000 miles on it. Most of the time it runs fine. But about every two weeks when I go to start it it will run real rough like its only hitting on three cylinders then will eventually smooth out after anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes. But today it wouldn't start at all. Finally started just fine after trying for 15 min. My mechanic changed the EGR valve but it hasn't worked. The check engine lite stays on all the time but when it starts rough the lite will flash.
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