Golf/GTI VI :: Dash Flashes And Throw Half A Dozen Error Messages From ESP To ABS To AFS / Headlight
Mar 19, 2016
2010 GTI. Just got back from a business trip, hasn't been started for a week. Turn key, just clicks at me. Dash flashes and threw up half a dozen error messages from ESP to ABS to AFS/headlight. Battery seems fine. I, unfortunately, do not have a windows laptop handy currently so cannot hook up vag-com. Does this sound like a starter? ECU? I do have APR stage I and I was NOT able to access via the cruise control set function which has me worried that somehow it has engaged lock out mode? At this point, I appear to be headed for flatbed, dealer and major wallet damage.
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My truck is back in the shop for a third time for the same problem and the dealer is really clueless about anything. Here are the alarms I get when trying to start( Low Oil Pressure, Service AdvanceTrac, Engine Overtemp, Wrench Icon and Starting System Fault.)
When trying remote start nothing happens then the horns honks after a couple of minutes.
Below is the timeline and a video.
July 21, 2015 - Vehicle would not start, multiple alarms going off and dashboard has all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 0700. Truck stayed in the shop overnight. Resolutions was told that the codes was reset and battery cable was tighten. I ask why the battery was loose when it was just in the shop for routine maintenance and it was signed off that it was good to go. I also told the service representative that I felt this didn't not solve my problem as it was just a quick fix.
Sept 4, 2015 - Problem is back, same symptoms, truck not starting, alarms going off, dashboard has all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 1700. Vehicle stay in the shop for a week and was picked up around 1800 on Sept 11, 2015. Service representative stated they replaced the PCM and reprogrammed the keys.
Sept 12, 2015 - Yep you guess it, same problem and not even a full 24 hours from when the vehicle was towed to the dealership again. Truck wont start, same symptoms, alarms going off, all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 0900. Vehicle would start now but check engine light is on. I have an inclination that all that will be done is to reset the codes.
2014 F250 6.7 Starting issues - YouTube
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I recently installed a new car stereo in my 05 CRV to replace the factory unit which had a broken CD player. Everything appeared to go fine, but I noticed at night that when the Head Light switch was turned on, only the top half of the dash lights would turn on, the lights for the AC/Heater failed to light, and the PRNDD1D2 lights which work fine in the day (sans the drive light not working, but that's been the case for a year now) would turn off. I've checked the fuses and found no blown ones, although the fact that the top half of the dash lights still turn on made a blown fuse seem less likely.
The lights that are left on will still dim/brighten when the dimmer knob is turned, and I noticed that if I pull the small lights fuse the dash lights don't work, but the PRNDD1D2 lights remain lit even with the headlights on. I've tried removing and re installing the factory stereo to see if there was a short in the new wiring harness, but that changed nothing. As is the car is still drivable, as the top half of the dash lights is enough to make all the gauges readable, but it's still a bit annoying. Any clues as to what I've done, and is there a reasonably cheap fix to the problem?
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So my radio occasionally when playing CD's will throw a "CD ERROR" on it's little digital screen. What happens is I will play a CD it will be playing fine, and not every time but sometimes the next CD I put in won't play and I get the error. Oh and when I eject CD's they are quite hot. Not burn your fingers hot, but hotter than from any other player I have had.
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I put a new battery in my 2007 LS460 and it lit up all kinds of vsc, brake, abs, pcs, stop the vehicle immediately, etc. A 30 minute freeway trip, then 1 hr turned off has not changed anything.
Background: no warnings before the dead battery, but the rear window would reverse when it got part way. I was monkeying with it, and found the weather seal crimped right there. I left the ignition on by mistake. 8 hours later, the 1 year old battery was dead. I hooked up a good charger and it nearly cranked 20 minutes later with the charger connected so I left it until the charger said it was done and unhooked it. There were no dash lights and my voltmeter read something like 3 volts.
I pulled it out and replaced it, which cranked right up and runs great, but has all these errors. I'm having trouble walking right now, but when I get a chance, I'll check the voltage on the new battery in case the car isn't charging, but I would have expected the two long drives yesterday to kill the battery again if it wasn't. I also have a ScanGaugeE which I may use to read and reset the codes.
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We just used the car last night. Hard to believe the battery is the issue. The key won't go in the trunk either. All the locks will not work with they key.
Remote wont open doors (it flashes green so battery is fine) and key only goes half way in. Locked out!
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My wife suddenly had error messages today, Check AWD System, check engine, traction. Carista reports P0138 O2 sensor high circuit voltage bank 1 sensor 2and also C1241 ABS low battery positive voltage. I get the O2 sensor or wires could be bad, but the C1241 could be expensive ECU. Think both could happen at same time or just a thrown code? Reset turned warnings off but Carista reports permanent for P0138.
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I posted recently because my '05 Touareg had been in twice for a "coolant overheating" error when the car was driven less than three minutes after a long cold start. They replaced the main computer and I had it back for a week and everything was fine. This morning, the same error occured. We took it in. When my husband drove it to the dealer, the warning went away after several minutes. They said that the error never logged on the computer and there's nothing wrong.
One person had responded last time with the sensor issue but got it resolved. I am really concerned about the possible problem that they can't seem to fix. They seem to be ok with it.
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My F250 is displaying error messages for the hill descent/advance trac yet again. My truck was in the shop over 7 times about 6 months ago when my instrument cluster would go crazy. Every warning possible on the display, and once you killed the engine it wouldn't start until the dealer cleared the codes...once they flew in an engineer he fixed it within a couple hour timeframe, and I thought that nightmare was over.
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Just bought a 2012 F350 6.7 4x4 in the beginning of March. After about 500 miles the "Exhaust Fluid System Fault - In 50 miles, speed limited to 50 mph" message displayed. So first thing that occurred to me was maybe it was low on DEF, so I added approximate 1.5 gallons as it had some already in there. I also called the dealer who said "well it just needs to be driven on the highway" hmmm, that sounded weird but I did it anyways. After that I started the truck and the message was gone. I thought that fixed it. - Nope, at about 1480 miles I got the same error message again.
So after getting the message again I just kept driving and the message went away. I thought ok. Yeah right! Now in the past few weeks I have been noticing that the truck almost wants to stall and begins to shudder when going over a slight incline and shifting from 5th to 6th at about 45mph. When I accelerate it makes a knocking noise. If I let off the accelerator, let it slow down, it downshifts into 5th and I then accelerate and it goes away.
And today... I decided to go for a nice ride. After about 10 minutes of driving I get the ole "Exhaust Fluid System Fault" error again. Crap! Again, I keep driving and after another 15min - I get that shutter and knocking noise. Anyway I drove until the the truck displayed "Speed limited to 50mph on next restart. I just kept driving and the error message mysteriously disappeared again.
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I'm getting an error code 2-7 (flashes two times, pauses, then flashes seven times) when my truck starts up. It does this cycle twice then stays on permanently. It has only started doing this since last night when I replaced my factory tape deck with a factory Cd player from a 2002 F-150.
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So after installing the short throw shifter I ran into an issue. My reverse is actually first gear, i do not have second gear, 3-6 work fine so far and i do not have a reverse. also my shifter doesn't seem to move far enough to the left.
We took the short shifter out and put the factory one back in and it still doesn't work. Is it possible for me not to have to take it to VW? i feel like they're going to tell me I need to replace I don't need and how to fix it.
Also, I drive a 2013 jetta GLI but its the same set up for a mk6 GTI....
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With my B6 '09 wagon, when I turn off ESP by pressing the console button, the icon flashes on the dash display and then goes out. Is this working correctly? I would think it would flash when ESP is on and it has encountered slipping and corrected. With the button set to off, I would think the light would stay lit on the dash?
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When my xenon lights are on they throw a shadow out to about 20 feet in front of the car. This is on a golf 2010 TDI.. It is a narrow shadow angled to the right and one to the left.
Is there something wrong with my Lights or do I need to change setting somehow? They are plenty bright but it is odd the lighting in front has this marking in it. BTW the fogs are not on nor does putting them on change this.. Noticed this on low beams and perhaps on high as well..
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I have a '10 manual trans gti. Only 16k miles on it. When starting cold and on an incline/decline at a certain level of clutch play, the transmission emits an odd chirping/whirring noise. Aside from the noise, the transmission is butter.
I brought in into the shop to get inspected and was able to replicate the noise for the technician. His thought was a bad throwout bearing.
Here's where it gets interesting. They quoted me about $600 labor just to confirm the issue. Should it be the throwout bearing, the replacement would be covered under warranty. labor would also be included. However, if they found it to be a wear product it would obviously be on me and stupid expensive.
Some people also thought maybe the clutch plate fingers are slipping? (I don't know that much about cars..)
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so lately I've been noticing a slight rattling/knocking noise coming from my car while it is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed it. When I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. I've read that this could be a sign of a bad throw out bearing? Is this right? If it is the throw out bearing, how long can I expect until it completely craps out on me? It seems to only do it on cold starts and sometimes on the uneven ground. I figured I should start saving some money to have this done because I'm not comfortable doing it myself.
Some other questions I had is my car is a 24v VR6 and it has 144k original miles. The timing chains and guides have not been replaced (to my knowledge at least). I know that replacing the throwout bearing requires removal of the transmission and so does doing the lower timing chain. If I get my throw out bearing replaced, should I have them do the chains also since they are already in there? I have no noise coming from my chains at all so there are no signs that they are going bad. Also, should I have my clutch replaced while they are in there? Again, no signs of a bad clutch either.
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Interesting condition I've encountered during this wonderful little mini project. I installed LED lights for my turn signals. As expected, I got hyperblinking. Just put in an LED compatible flasher (pain in the butt to install that thing...), and now my blinkers work fine, but my whole dash flashes if I signal with the rest of my lights off. Works fine if the light stalk is set to parking lights or full on.
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I have a clicking binding noise while at idle, with the clutch out it goes away, when depressed its there. So, is this a bad throw out bearing? Clutches and flywheels?
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I've had my Avalon at the Toyota shop more than 12 times with the same problem...a/c light on dash flashes off and on. The A/C system shuts down. Sometimes the command center says check A/C.
We have gone through the replace game, compressor twice, relay four times, too much refrigerant-to little refrigerant multiple times and loose wire multiple times.
This is supposed to be a Toyota Certified car if that means anything. The car has 86,000 miles.
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Its a 2004 f 150 5.4 2 wd auto, I think is a 4r70w, when I first start out in the morning I get a trans malfunction on the dash and the od light flashes, if I shut the truck off and restart it goes away for the rest of the day, when it does this the speedometer doesn't work right, vss?
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About 2 months ago ('06 Prius - 386K) 12v battery was replaced - red triangle disappeared and everything has been fine. ( I have driven the car about 7K since replacement).
Now on my 2800 mile trip, the following is happening. With Cruise Control on and functioning - freeway traffic comes to an almost halt (5-8 mph) after traffic picks up Cruise Control light on dash is flashing and will not function. (Pull over and re-boot the Win95 machine - and everything is back to working until next slow down).
I am now driving on a service road to my hotel at approx. 25mph and as I go over every patch in the asphalt my Traction Control light comes on and then off and it makes the car act like it is on ice ( and yes the Cruise Control light is back to flashing).
On my journey on this 5 miles of access road then my stereo volume starts going up and down all on its own. If I try turning the volume knob nothing happens. I push the knob in and then push on the knob to come back out and then the volume knob works and then the volume control on the steering wheel starts to work as well.
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