Golf/GTI VI :: DSG Shudder When Stopping / Starting Off
Dec 30, 2010
I just picked up my new GTI and drove it 300 miles home. I did notice one potential issue that will need service attention. There is a mild but very noticeable shudder when slowing to a stop (gently slowing to less than 5mph). It is also mildly noticeable when taking off slowly but much less so.
The best description I can come up with is : Shudder that occurs when you slow to a near stop in a manual transmission car without pressing in the clutch? That little shudder that reminds you to put the clutch in before you stall. That is what this feels like. It doesn't shake the whole car but it is very noticeable.
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I recently switched from stock rotors to a pair of SP slotted rotors. The pads are stock. I thoroughly followed the bedding process and had no problems until now. For the past 2 weeks I noticed brake shudder when stopping from highway speeds. My first reaction was that it was a warped rotor. Since it was a fairly new pair.
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I have a 2010 GTI with 70K miles. At @ 40K the clutch began to exhibit sort of a slight sudder, and squeak when the car was fully warmed up, but only from starting from a stop on a steep uphill incline. The dealer could not duplicate the problem when routine maintainence was performed, At the 70K maintainence, they could duplicate the problem, and have told me that a new clutch from flywheel on is needed. The Diagnosis was $90 and could not have included any mechanical inspection. One of the Techs told me that there is a list of VIN's that VW apparently identified as having potential clutch issues. My thoughts are:
Even though the car is past the 60K powertrain warranty, the problem was brought to the dealers attention at @40K.
If the car is on the list, VW already knew there could be issues.
I feel that under the circumstances VW could be expected to cover 1/2 of the repair, since the car now has 70K.
Other questions if VW has no interest in working with me:
Can the flywheel be resurfaced? What would the approximate cost for labor to replace the clutch by an Independent garage? The car operates as usual, just with the one issue. I would like to have repair done fairly soon.
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Have driven Hondas for 25+ years and used to their appliance like Smoothness and reliability. Yesterday bought my first VW ever, the last 2010 Passat ( a sedan) in my dealer's inventory.
I immediately noticed that while coming to a stop for the final few seconds there is a jerkiness and shudder that I feel. Feels like the way a manual transmission car feels when you forgot to depress the clutch and you're stopping. Once I come to a complete stop all is fine again.
Is it "normal" for the passat or vw in general?
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2010 F150 5.4, 6 speed... I am fast approaching the end for the factory 60,000 mile drive line warranty. I have had the slow speed 0-2 miles per hour shudder since 3,000 miles. The shudder downshifting from 2nd to 1st when stopping. As well as the highway shudder when gradually accelerating above 55 mph (empty and loaded)
The dealer that I purchased the truck from has driven with me several times and experienced the problems. They reflashed the computer at 5,000 miles. it made the shudder frequency double. i.e., twice as rapid. Reflashed again with no change.
I finally called Ford Motor Company, and they were surprised that I had not filed a complaint earlier. They followed up with the dealer.....who's service dept opted not to work on the vehicle again. I am now working with another dealer, and will be starting from scratch.
Long story short. I see that some have replaced torque converters, transmissions, clutch plates, valve bodies, and on and on....
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I just bought my first truck and it is a 1999 (Made in late 1998) F250 7.3 Super Duty it is 2WD with rear ABS and has 290k miles on it.
It has what seems to be the common brake shudder while stopping. I know the only solution is to replace the rotors and I have been looking all over the forums and internet and just don't know what to go with.
I'll be using the truck to do light farm work, pickup lumber, get a bed load of dirt and maybe pull a normal car trailer every now and then.
I'm wanting to get something that will prove to be trouble free long term and be good enough for what I need with out over paying for something that I will never fully utilize. I have looked at
R1 Concepts
Frozen Rotor
EBC - which doesn't have 2wd front rotors
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My '11 F250 stock w/airbags has a mild shudder when I let off the gas approaching a stop light. If I air the bags up to about 20 lbs it appears to go away, or at least is undetectable. I don't notice this if travelling at a higher rate of speed on a highway but only when slowing down from a lower speed (<40 mph). What this could be?
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I have a 2005, Volvo S80, it has 107,500 miles on it. In the last two months the car has started (NOT everytime I drive but sometimes and then the next time I drive it it is fine), jerking and sometimes a thunk sound as it jerks. When it is doing it it does it s I finish stopping from going fast or slowly AND then when I accelerate it feels like a the car has a delay from the gas pedal. And starts with a jerk and the thunk sound.
When I brake what happens make me imagine that the wheelbase has stopped and the the body of the car is still going and clunks as it stops too. Like it is lurching over the wheel base. Sometimes it does it the whole time I am driving (starting and stopping) and other times the car drives fine. Talking to several mechanics they all seemed stumped and have never heard. But mechanic guesses that they want to fix have been electrical board shorting, timing belt, transmission needing to be flushed. What this actually is? And what needs to be done about it.
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My mom has a 97 Ford Thunderbird. About 1 month ago the air conditioner stopped working, it wouldn't blow out anything. Knowing that it could be a number of items and not sure of the cost, she decided not to have it fixed.Earlier this week it started working again on it's own. It worked for 1 day and then stopped again. What could've caused this? It seems to me that if it came back on that it may be a simple fix like a fuse.
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Today I was driving my 2005 Honda CRV when suddenly the car starting revving up while slowly stopping. It would not move after that. Car still reved up while stepping on the gas. Had to be towed to a mechanic. They could not look at it today.
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I have recently noticed a vibration that occurs at VERY low speed - such as below 0mph and 1mph, while just starting (or stopping).
The best way to describe this vibration is that it feels somewhat similar to going over a rumble-strip - but not quite so intense.
It only happens for a very short time while just starting off (or coming to a stop) - and then goes away. You almost have to try to make it happen. If I try to carefully control the increase of the car's speed, I can -sort of- extend the amount of time that this happens.
I certainly have to be on the 'look out' to notice this and attempt to make it happen to really identify it. Otherwise, (if I accelerate too quickly i.e.: normally) it just feels like a couple of bumps in the road.
I think I read on here somewhere something about a breakdown of the winding insulation that provides such an effect? Is there any straightforward way (perhaps with a scan gauge or other tool) to conclusively diagnose this?
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I have a 2001 xc70 105,000 mi. the tranny is clunking when it gets warmed up, stopping and starting. it doesn't do it at highway speeds. when its cold it doesn't do it at all. no messages as in check engine lights.
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Hyundai makes squeaky noise when starting and stopping engine, starting to move and also when traveling at speed (during gear changing, turning, etc). What causes it? See website below for video with noise:
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Why are My Tires Wearing Unevenly?
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I have a 1998 Ford Ranger, 3.0 4X4. Purchased in early 2002 with a clunking problem which has not gotten worse or better. When I take off it is a heavy double 'clunking' like something shifting and the settling. I have had 4 mechanics look at it, have changed the front u joint and have had the motor and transmission mounts checked but the mounts are OK. Can't figure this out. I talked to a person at a local car parts store and he mentioned that it could involve the 'yoke' and that it just might need to be greased but he was just guessing.
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Whenever I take off from a stop or slow to a stop, there's a clunk in the drivetrain. It feels like a bit of play before the drivetrain engages and when it releases...torque converter maybe? Taking to the tranny shop soon...
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My engine tends to shudder a whole lot when starting (sometimes) I also hear an audible clunk or Thunk sometimes when the normal engine simply starts as well as when accelerating, Decelerating, braking, and accelerating on reverse. I know you may think, axles, but I recently replaced them twice because the first pair made my ABS turn on so I'm returning those (bad brand called "EMPI"), and these second ones seem to be working great (aftermarket SurTrak, the dealer has the original ones for about $600 each WAY too expensive) but I started noticing the clunk after 2 days.
Notice: it is one single clunk not a clack clack clack when turning, no. It is only heard when accelerating, decelerating, braking, and accelerating on reverse; one single clunk. I've been searching a lot and narrowed down the possibilities to motor/Trans. Mounts. Notice: I've recently changed struts, springs, stabilizer bar, wheel bearings hubs, as well as the front axle shafts.
I have a 2004 with 175,200 miles on it by the way!
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I have an 08 F-250 CC SB 4x4 Diesel truck that has since new clunked when starting out from a stop and/or coming to a stop. I have 16k on it now and am getting really tired of dealing with it... The clunk starting is when I let off the brake and just apply the throttle. It feels like something slips and then clunk.
The clunk when stopping is the same as starting, except when coming to a stop.This is unloaded or when loaded w/ cargo and/or trailers. I know I can go to the dealer, but I don't want to un-spartan my truck for this...
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2016 2L Escape. My question is this. I've had the vehicle for the past 12 months and each rainy season here in California, I admit its not often we get rain but we have it now and its about time. Anyway while driving in wet conditions I get a squeak from what I think is the right rear sway bushing and it only happens during starting out, stopping and parking lot speed bumps all at low speed. No noise at when driving at speed. I've had it to the dealer 3 x to fix, they grease the bushing and it seems ok for awhile but not he permanent fix I was hoping for.
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I am not the original owner of this 1990 E250 cargo van with a 302 in it. I am trying to troubleshoot this shudder I am having. It only happens when I am just starting off from a stop. Every other place the tranny runs and shifts great. I trying to find a starting point and after reading a bunch in a bunch of different places, I am confused as to the tranny I have or even had.
It has in big bold letters METRIC on the bottom of the pan. It also has Automatic Overdrive and Ford on the bottom of the pan also. It is a 14 bolt pan with the two rear corners of the pan chamfered off. I see now it is DEFINITELY the AOD installed and NOT the AODE. The thing is my steering column is labeled 1 D and OD. That is a 3 spd overdrive to me. What the heck is going on? How can I tell what the tranny was that came out of the van?
When I look under the van at the shift linkage, you can definitely tell the linkage is colored red which to me looks like somebody has been down there playing around. Is it possible to put a AOD into this van with the steering column the way it is? Could this be a reason for my early shudder at starting off from a stop? Once I put my foot in it or get moving at a quicker pace, the shudder goes away. Something is not right with the way this tranny is set up. I am not even sure where to start.
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I have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
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