Golf/GTI VI :: Cylinders Misfiring Lost Acceleration
Feb 23, 2012
So last night i was driving and i made a turn onto the highway and speed up to pass this slow ass car :thumb down: and as i did i lost acceleration and my car started to rumble like when you use a high gear when u make a turn while moving that slow acceleration. And as that happened my engine light turned on and my EPC so i drove it well barely made it home. i had a friend with his VAGCOM come to see whats wrong it said cylinder 1&3 are miss firing so he took his ignition coils out of his car swapped them in my car and we drove it around and it drove fine and no fault codes. so now my issue since i have GIAC, CAI and APR full exhaust if my warranty will cover to have them put new ignition coils since i did get an extended warranty. I'm just afraid they won't.
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My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
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Is it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
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So I have a 2004 jetta GLI (1.8T) with forge splitter valve and short ram intake. I went and got my codes pulled and all 4 cylinders misfiring and random misfires. I replaced both coil packs and spark plugs. check engine light popped up again after about 20 miles and same thing. I just bought the car so I'm not sure how long it has been running with these misfires. I just got the timing belt replaced. I know it could be off a tooth. (Wouldn't a code pop up though for it?) How could I check that. And I also took my MAF sensor off as well and no change. Heard it could be clogged cat, any way to check? I've also cleaned the throttle body. It runs fine when I'm driving, just a rough idle.
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I was driving home today and when I got on to the freeway, the car lost power and the check engine light started to flash like it was misfiring, also the EPC light came on. When I got off the freeway and let it idle, it idled rough until I turned the car off and put my APR flash back to stock. After that the car was idling fine and the check engine and EPC lights were gone. Everything seemed to be working fine until I hit about 75 mph. The car started sputtering again only as long as i tried to accelerate. Under light to moderate acceleration the car works fine up to about 70 mph. After that or under heavy acceleration the car sputters and the CE light flashes and then turns off.
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Firstly, my car is a 2001 with a 1.8T, 5 speed manual. It has APR's 93 with the mode-switching software, a FMIC, a short ram air intake, the SAI delete and the original DV (used to be a Forge 007). I bought the car in 2008 and it didn't have this problem until the following winter, sold it in 2012 and recently bought it back from the guy I sold it to.
My car will start and idle great, and accelerate through first gear without problem. In second and third gear, when it hits around 3000 RPM, it just suddenly starts to sputter and run like crap and not get any kind of boost. Fourth and fifth gear, I can run it until it peaks and it'll never miss a beat. It only does this when it gets cold outside (sub-30 degrees) and is perfectly fine the other nine months out of the year. I usually don't drive it in the winter if it's avoidable, but I have to travel a lot this year and would like to drive it instead of my truck.
In the past few years/15K miles, I've replaced:
- All four coilpacks
- All new spark plugs
- New coilpack harnesses
- Catalytic Converter
- Throttle body (twice)
- Diverter valve (back to stock, other owner did it)
- SAI delete (other owner did it)
- Fuel Filter
- O2 sensor
- ECU (the factory one got shorted and had to be replaced back in '08)
I've also gone through and checked every vacuum line and can't find any leaks (including spray testing). My CEL is on due to the SAI delete. I've tried it in both the stock and APR mode and it doesn't make a difference.
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My 9-2 is misfiring on cylinders 2 and 4. At first we suspected a timing issue but that doesn't appear to be the case. My mechanic is looking at it but can't seem to locate the problem... so far:
- replaced old spark plugs
- checked the coils (moved them to see if the misfiring followed the coils--it did not)
- checked the timing belt (all good)
- compression is good
- fuel coming in is rich
He's dropping the exhaust today to check things from that end... A faulty mass airflow sensor wouldn't effect specific cylinders would it? and we'd see a degradation in the fuel richness right?
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According to the OBDII, I have a misfire on #3 & #4 cylinders. Im getting codes PO300, PO303, PO304 and PO171.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon Limited with 106k miles. Check engine light detected Cylinder misfire in cylinders 3 and 4 at 99K even though I didn't feel the car driving any differently. At the time I was planning to drive the vehicle across the country and so maybe I freaked out, but a friend and I replaced all the spark plugs and coils at the same time (I knew the back 3 were a real pain).
Then at around 104K miles (after letting car sit for 8 weeks) I noticed my car was jumping a bit while idling at lights and the RPMs would dip about 50-100. It felt like I was running out of gas even though the tank was full. For the last 2k miles the idle problem has gotten slightly worse and I think I can even detect a misfire while driving in hilly terrain (although this could just be the oft complained about jerking transmission issues that plague the Avalon). There is NO check engine light illuminated and no codes.
what may be causing my car's idle to dip? It can't be the new plugs and coils already can it? How can I tell if there is a leak somewhere or if the fuel injectors are dirty?
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A couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
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2000 Excursion V10.
Recently cylinders 1,2,3,4 wend dead on my wife's Excursion. I searched here for a pin out diagram so I can check all the wires from the coils to the PCM. I changed the coils on those 4 cylinders with no change and then swapped them with the coils on the left side of the engine. the problem stays on those 4 cylinders. Any link to pin out the wire harness for the coils to the PCM
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So my 2008 accent is my daily driver. I'm nearing the 300,000 mile mark but the last 100,000 miles have been plagued with random multiple misfires. I have changed the cables, crankshaft sensor, plugs, and I've been through numerous costly coils (I keep 4 with me). All listed parts were most recently changed at the same time. Why do I misfire on nearly every commute and get stuck operating on 3 cylinders?
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97 F150 4x4 XLT 5.4L... I had two cylinders misfiring, removed COP, injectors and plugs. Reinstalled all parts and reconnected all sensors. Now I am not getting fuel to the injectors. Double checked for disconnected wires and hoses, checked all fuses and relays, also the inertia switch. Fuel pump does not hum when key turned on. Tried hitting bottom of gas tank. My question is, before I pull the tank again, is there something under the hood I may be missing. It does get quite crowded at the rear of the motor.
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2014 F350 6.7... The truck has only 30000 miles on it. I was driving uphill and the engine just quit, but fired up right away after with engine check. On idling run at 500-700 rpm , no power, clicking noise , sometimes shaking. Took to the closest dealer right away, they don't know what is it, but they want to rake of the engine . This truck is not under any warranty. This is my first diesel truck, didn't expect anything like this....
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I just bought a 99 F250 Super Duty with the V10. When I bought it, I knew it had 2 misfiring cylinders (4 and 10) because it was throwing P0304 and P0310 (only 2 codes), but wasn't concerned as I've had to take care of my wife's Escape with it's misfiring cylinders. I replaced the 2 coils and replaced the plugs with Motorcraft plugs from O'Reilly's, cleared the codes and she ran fine for a couple of days. Now I'm getting an intermittent misfire, it's only occasionally throwing a pending code of P0300 which is "Multiple Random Misfire".
I'm fairly certain it's an issue on the electrical side because if it were an issue with the injector or injectors it would be constant regardless of RPM... right? As it is now, it basically does it between 55-65 while in overdrive trying to pull a hill or slightly accelerate. Once it's shifted out and the RPMs go up to 2k+ it runs like a champ... and it kills my fuel economy. The way it's behaving is just like when a coil is bad, but it's saying it's not identifying a specific cylinder (saying it's multiple) and it doesn't always do it (about 60% of the time).
I checked the MAF and it's very clean (looks almost new), checked the vacuum lines (those I found without a manual) and couldn't find any leaks and when I changed the plugs all the plug wells were dry.
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SO this truck came into the shop yesterday with a really bad misfire. pulled the codes and got a misfire codes for cylinders 1-6 and also p1450 (unable to bleed fuel tank vacuum) and p068a (pcm/ecm power relay de-energized too early) i found a TSB related to the issue, TSB 10-25-7 i did as the tsb told me to do and pulled valve covers to check out the rocker shaft rollers and inspect for any signs of surface deformation or fatigue. they were fine on both sides.: ive got spark in all cylinders. fuel pressure was right around 55-60 the gauge was fluctuating pretty good. checked for bad fuel or water in fuel ect. fuel seems to be good. pulled O2s incase of plugged cats still ran like crap.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger edge with the 3.0l engine. It started acting up today so i brought it to get checked because the check engine light came on. Three codes where pulled p0300, p0306, and p0313. They were multiple/random cylinders misfiring, cylinder 6 misfire, and first misfire at 1000 rpm. I have replaced the plugs and coil and still have the trouble.
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I have a 2009 f250 with 5.4l 3v. have had the truck only about 6 months. it started missing about a month after I got it. I replaced all 8 cops and all 8 sp. The truck ran excellent until 11/29, then I got a cel and the truck started running really bad. Found 3 misfiring cylinders. Changed all 3 cops again and that did nothing. Pulled the injectors and found 2 of them were clogged, replaced those also. Still no change was told by someone that the ecm/cpu may need to be reset, did that also. Still no change. There are no codes present but still has the multiple misfires.
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My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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