Golf/GTI VI :: Creaky Clutch When Coming Out Of 1st Or Using Reverse
Jun 1, 2010
600 miles on the GTI and when its cold the clutch creaks a bit coming out of 1st or using reverse. After its warmed up it does not happen. Is this something to be concerned about, or no?
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I have a 2013 4 Door Golf MK6 with the following:
DG springs
225 X45 X17"
Hotchkis RSB ( set on the softest setting which is 90% stiffer over the OEM one)
Neuspeed Endlinks
About two weeks ago I started hearing some creaking noises coming from the rear of my car. I thought, I need to put some grease to the RSB bushings, but this didn't work. After a close inspection I notice that the sway bar was rubbing.
The RSB was installed about 3 1/2 months ago and didn't have any issues. What could be causing the problem? I am suspecting the endlinks are going to be culprit. the car is used as a daily driver. what endlinks would you recommend to get?
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Ok I have this problem now on my R .... the dealership replaced the whole clutch kit under warranty and I picked up
the car on monday morning at first everything felt ok until I had to reverse I felt a slight shudder but didn't think
much of it as the clutch only then did about 10km's ... The clutch is fine in all the other gears no shudder no slipping nothing it's only when you reverse that you can feel it. What this could be ?
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Just installed them a few weeks ago, at first I wasn't too low, now that I am about 24.4 to the fender, the right passenger side creaks. At low speed over bumps, dink, dink dink..... and when i turn the wheel almost all the way to the side go up or over a curb it goes dink and then when i straighten it , it dinks again> Got the installing new suspension kit from dbc, and new ball joints on both sides. Only one side squeaks!
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I have Bluewater adjustable control arms, they have been on the car for about 22 months, and for the last few weeks they have been squeaking and creaking like a bastard, over any imperfection in the road.
We had the car up on the lift, and twisted the control arms, and it's definitely coming from there. I'm not the best mechanic in the world, pretty far from it, so is there a way to remedy this without replacing them? It sounds like I'm fornicating in a 1986 Caprice every time I hit a bump.
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I came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
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I just picked up a 2011 Golf TDI a week ago and so far, I love it! I have about 600 miles on it now and I have noticed that the driver's side lumbar support is very stiff to turn compared to the passenger side. It is also making a creaking noise when it is adjusted and I can feel the seat compress slightly when I put pressure on it (say, when I shift gears or move positions) and it also makes noise when doing so.
Just wondering if this is a common problem, if there is an easy fix, or should the dealer take care of it. My thoughts right now are to take it right back to the dealer and let them deal with it.
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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I had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
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I did replace one of this days the rear main seal in my r32, and reinstall the clutch like i normally do, and right after i start the car I notice this horrible noise, scare the hell of me cuz i thought i did not had oil in the car for a moment, but i did never drain it, so I ran to get my stetoscope and the noise is coming from the clutch flywheel area, so i did remove everything apart and reinstall it, resurface the flywheel got another clutch and pressure plate, and nothing the noise is still there, do this noise sound familiar to u?
Timing chains? engine is new, and when I mean new I mean only 175 miles, got it from the dealer.. Main bearings? Clutch? only 100 miles got it new about 3 months ago. I already check all the pulleys and none make any kind of noise, [URL] ....
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I have a 2010 5-speed Golf 2.5L. Around 2 months ago after coming back from vacation, i noticed that when shift from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, there is horrible chatter/vibration coming from i assume the clutch/tranny. its been getting progressively worse and its at a point where i can hear the spare change rattle in the cup holder. the car had been sitting for a month, and i sort of "broke it in again" when i got back from vacation, not revving over 3 on the first tank, not over 4 on the second. It does have 100k kms on it, solid mix of highway and city. Is this something easily fixable, i dont have a warranty so i'd have to go aftermarket. Not down to pay two arms and 3 legs for something that could put me back in this situation yet again. if its the clutch id just go aftermarket with something a lot better, or if its the tranny id put a 6 speed in it, really lacking on the highway i believe. Or maybe it's something else.
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I've been noticing my GTI has been making some weird noises, especially after only have 380 miles on it. When idling with the clutch engaged, it makes a rattling noise that goes away when depressed. There's also a rather loud sound coming from the timing belt and just underneath the plastic engine cover. I'm hoping it just needs breaking in, but I'd just like some reassurance that it's nothing serious.
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I have weird noise and from just a quick inspection of the car, I don't even know where to start to inspect...
Current setup:
30,000 km
stock clutch
stage 1+ Unitronic @ 5000km (1 track day)
stage 2 w/ hpfp Unitronic @ 27000km (1 recent track day, drove it hard but not prolonged, perhaps 20-25km on a 1km course over 2 hours at max)
VW v2 (~15000km)
drivetrain taken out to install DP @ 25000km.
H&R Rear Sway (setting: stiff)
I feel a weird 'clink' as I turn, and via multiple observations here are the only times I've found it semi-repeatable.
- heavy hard turns (only had a few instances where i could try this out and not 100% repeatable)
- slowly pulling out of a parking spot (turn radius on the steering wheel is more than 50% of a turn) - usually turning left (repeated a couple of times now)
- turning into a driveway (mini bump) @ less than 20km/h
- usually right turn more often then left does this appear
Also, its the noise is coming from the driver side wheel and sometimes right above the drivetrain. this can also be felt if my clutch is semi-engaged (or when i have my foot on the pedal). I have hoisted up my car to do a quick visual inspection (sadly didn't pay attention to the drive train /shaft). but found nothing suspicious (keep in mind it was relatively quick as the shop was closing). one thing i found that was loose and thought was the culprit was a plastic arm with a metallic tube that came off on the driver's side rear control arm .
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I changed my oem clutch in my mk4 golf 2.0l with a stage 1 ecs tuning clutch kit. Lightweight flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. But since I have my clutch pedal has been less stiff then usual. I like my clutch pedal as stiff as possible but it just isn't I bled off the slave cylinder. When I was done no air was coming out but it is still way to soft for me. What should I do next??
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When I start up my engine, I hear a chain noise coming from the top of the engine. It's like a belt running chains. Also when I reverse the DSG it's a jerking sensation normal or should i get it fixed by VW.
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When I look back into the rear view the top brake light isn't a solid light, it keeps blinking but sometimes it won't blink and just have a solid light. Also, my friend pointed out to me that both of my reverse lights arenot even coming on. I suspect a loose wire somewhere. Where should I look? Or something else?
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I just had a problem come up a few weeks ago where the check lights indicator comes on. We've narrowed down the problem to the white reverse lights not coming on when the car is in reverse.
I had my Phaeton mechanic look at it and he could not find the problem although apparently there is a resistance difference between the brake lights and reverse lights leading him to believe it may be the bulb holders (they are corroded).
The reverse lights connect to many modules so it could be anything.
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[URL] ..... This is an exact duplication of what is happening to my car. I have lubricated the door check (and hinges) repeatedly with silicone (in all its forms) and lithium to no avail. I've squirted and sprayed up, down, left and right. The door feels great, but sounds like crap.
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My driver side sun visor has gotten incredibly creaky for some reason even though I don't use it very often. I don't know what's inside so I'm unsure on the lubricant to use.
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Car is a 2015 is250 f sport. Stock suspension and brakes. Live in Florida so weather doesn't really get and stay cold. I was backing into my driveway tonight and my wheel was turned all the way to the left and I was engaging the brake and disengaging it to slowly work from the street and into my driveway and the most horrid creaking metal sound was happening from the front drivers side tire and suspension. Since I bought the car the brakes have been loud when they are cold which I sort of understand but when the steering rack was engaged all the way to the left with the brakes engaged and i was backing up very very slow. it just didn't sound normal, at least not for a Lexus.
Sound isnt as evident from outside the car as it is sitting in the drivers seat. This is my first Lexus so not sure if their brakes and suspension get loud when cold? Its either a temperature and design issue or something else that is wrong. This sound should be normal from an older car, but suprised its coming from mine with only 1,500 miles.
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When I have the clutch depressed and start to let out as I'm either in reverse or in first gear it makes a clatter/chatter noise. It also occurs when I have the clutch depressed and just rev the engine and it's in neutral. Some days it's louder than others. It doesn't matter if the engine is cool or at normal temp.
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