Golf/GTI VI :: Continuous Whistling While Under Normal Driving Conditions
Apr 2, 2014
Having issue where you get a continuous whistling while under normal driving conditions. I recently went to stage 3 Revo software using the Stasis Revo K04 upgrade kit, installed professionally. Have looked at all possible sources of the whistling, have narrowed it down to the the turbo itself. Can hear the car whistling from a good distance away from it. when not moving if I rev the engine i can reproduce the whistle as well, just not sustained. As soon as you press the throttle above 2400 RPM it starts whistling and continues to whistle as long as throttle is pressed. Car is almost un-drivable because of whistle.
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I seem to have this high pitched whistling noise as I am driving at normal speeds (starts at ~40-45 mph). It seems to coming from my rear drivers side, but I'm not entirely sure. My R has about 78,xxx miles and I haven't done this 80k....
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A large auto magazine has reviewed the Auris Hybrid (Gen III Prius drive train) while remarking that driving in 'B' gives better regen. This auto magazine also does a fuel economy evaluation and noted engine noise as a negative point for the car.
Now, how much fuel economy is affected during normal city/highway driving when you drive in 'B' rather than 'D'? And as a bonus. How much more will the engine run due to the missing regen?
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Model is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
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My first VW was a 2001 4-door Golf (Silver), traded to 2003 GTI (Silverstone), traded to 2006 Jetta Wagon (Blue). Then the wagon was traded for a SUV. Well last week, I have decided to pick up my 4th VW. It's a 2012 CSG 4-door GTI.
After driving the car for a week, and putting on 350 miles, I heard a high pitch continous "whistling" sound from the engine. Took the car to the dealer this afternoon. Tech came out and loosened the coolant reservoir. I heard a "pooof", sound of air build up. The tech said VW is aware of this problem. Something to do with the water pump bearing. It has to be replaced. They took the car in to replace the water pump.
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On my 2002 F250 7.3 I kept getting a check engine light when I pulled my 5th wheel uphill, I took it to a shop and they told me my HPOP needed replaced. I bought a new pump and installed it. Now my check engine light comes on and turns off during normal driving conditions. I do not have a code yet but hoping there is some idea on what might have happened.
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My Dad has a 1995 Lincoln Towncar that has developed a continuous shrill whistling sound inside the car when you start and drive. No amount of fiddling with any of the controls makes it go away...but ..it does stop on it's own, sometimes.
We have heard all kinds of theories about what it might be; including seat belt warning, turn signal flasher, short in the steering column, vacuum leak, etc. But short of committing to an expensive hourly rate to find the gremlin, we have been unable to solve the problem.
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I was just thinking about this last night when driving home under heavy rain. It was nice to have it on the highway turns where there was heavy flooding and hydroplane possibilities, especially since I am used to 4 wheel drive in these conditions. I was wondering if I shouldn't be turning it off under normal conditions though? I know it's handy to do so if you are stuck in heavy snow but since the default is always on I wonder if there is any other gain to only using it when needed rather than only turning it off when needed?
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On a '03 Solara, I've got this code. It designates Shift Solenoid Performance (stuck off) for the S4 valve. It makes sense because the trans won't shift into 4th gear in normal conditions.
But I was wondering what the likelihood of the transmission speed sensor set this code by giving a faulty reading that was too slow. The car seems like it is going somewhat faster than the speedometer is reading. RPMs are over 3000 at 50 mph. Seems like I'm doing 60-65. I wonder if the ECM is not commanding the 3-4 shift because it 'thinks' the car has not reached the required speed?
Or possibly the button on the shifter is simply malfunctioning. The indicator light on the dash comes on if the button is pushed, and goes out when you push it again. I'm not familiar with what the normal RPM would be at highway cruising. It's a 4 cyl with 169,400 miles. Would torque converter clutch be more likely to fail than the shift solenoids on these cars?
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OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
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I am a newbie of the Golf R32. There is something curious when the operation speed of more than 120km On the right side of the engine compartment are as mad as a strange noise.
Quite a loud noise like whistling, as a rapidly rotating. Is this the original R32-sounding? I heard this noise because the sound generator is this true?
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Under normal driving how loud is the exhaust inside the car with the windows up and the radio on? I know the exhaust is loud as all the reviews say and i know there are videos on youtube of the exhaust but its always either with the windows down or windows up and radio off. I just want to know how much louder than stock it is just cruising with windows up and radio on if i want some sort of quiet.
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I'm coming home from just running errands around town, got the stereo on pretty loud, normal driving, good weather, and the engine just shuts off. Lights are still on, regular brightness, everything electrical working, but battery light and EPC light are on and the engine won't restart. It'll turn and "click" like it's about to start, but just the starter turns over.
Fast forward 5 minutes (no activity in the interim), and it starts up first try. Battery light is now off but EPC light is still on. This happened about 2 blocks from home, so I gently take it home. 1 block away, the EPC light goes off. I let it idle for a minute and everything now seems normal. I shut it off and so here we are.
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Burning oil smell but can't figure out where or why.
No Drips (checked standing on dry ground).
No Drips (checked after spraying water down on ground).
Checked Oil, level doesn't change.
Checked Transmission, level doesn't change.
Only thing that has changed is that i went with a 5w-40 oil about 4000km ago. Could it be burning minute amounts of oil during driving under hard conditions (mountains/hills)?
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Why the "esc off" light goes off in my 08 elantra se? This has happened 3 times in the last 4 months, every time while I am driving in rainy/snow shower conditions. I tried reactivating esc, but it does not allow me until I turn the ignition off and back on. Is this supposed to happen when it rains? I would like to take the car to the dealer for diagnosis but it happens at night and not close to a hyundai dealer.
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Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
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My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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I've been back from a year overseas for a little over a month and have been driving my 2 door R daily since coming back. All of a sudden today, the passenger side window started vibrating like crazy under normal driving. It is very loud and noticeable, but goes away once I crack the window. If I roll it up and crack the driver's side, I get the "helicopter vibration noise" some have noticed when the sunroof is open (I don't have a sunroof, but have noticed this on all my other VWs).
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I have an 04 F150 FX4, I was driving it and starting continuously chiming from under the dash. The chime was the same as the low fuel light but was repetitive. I assumed it to be a warning and I started watching my gauges to find my voltage dropping. So I rushed it back home and couple miles out the dash, radio, accessories, etc power went out in what I assume to be a power save mode.
I get it back home and turn it off. I go to attempt to restart it and no crank. I think ok maybe my alternator went out, so I jumped the battery off my car and still no power. When I mean no power, truck is getting proper voltage but when I turn the key to attempt to start there are still no cranking, no dash/radio/windows. I noticed two things: ABS light blinks different codes but nothing consistent, and secondly the anti-theft light when turning to start blinks rapidly.
I believe this is unrelated to the problem, but my clock spring broke few months back. Since the anti-theft light blinks rapidly i'm assuming the PATS system is not communicating with the key. I only have one key for the truck. I check every fuse, swapped relays in fuse panel on passenger side and everything looked good. I called a locksmith who can cut and program keys and he called his technical support and said he doesn't believe that two new programmed keys will solve the problem.
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I have noticed this problem off and on over the course of the last year and a half. Last night we had a ridiculous rain here in Longview, TX. and my power cut out at my apt. I decided to go to the girlfriends house, and on the way, kinda took it easy, just because I am paranoid about hydrolock due to having AEM intake.
The problem only happens at WOT. I did this once and then really took it easy the rest of the way there. The engine really seems to cut out though, and the car bucks like a bronco.
Get to her house, park it, hang there for a couple of hours. Driving home I just took it easy, the rain was done, and it was fairly late. The esp light came on 1-2 minutes into the ride home, and stayed on all the way there.
Parked, slept, started up for work the next morning. Dry. No problems at all.
Now what I am wondering is if maybe some water is getting into a connector perhaps grounding out a circuit? And since the ESP light is coming on, maybe the haldex connector? I know there have been threads about ate up connectors due to corrosion, but I don't know if that could throw the system off so much as to cause the engine to "choke".
Currently the car has 75k miles on her.
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1988 Bronco II - 2 days ago while driving my check-engine light came on for about 5 seconds, though there were no apparent drivability issues, then went away and did not come back for the remaining 20 or so miles home. Then yesterday while driving to a destination the engine cut out a few times. Gauges and such stayed illuminated but the engine lost power as if it wasn't getting fuel or spark. It occurred randomly over a 3 minute period: 1 second bogging, then 10 seconds powering, 3 bogging, 20 powering, 2 bogging... I depressed the clutch to check if the engine could idle and it stalled. Then I restarted the truck and drove 5 miles home with no issues or check engine light and even driving for a minute at WOT would not make the issue remanifest. I did not drive it today for fear of breaking down and I hope to get this solved before taking it on the road again.
I read the following codes:
KOEO: 11 (passes)
Continuous Memory: 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range.
KOER: 11 (passes)
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