Golf/GTI VI :: Constant Misfire On Cylinder 1
Jul 22, 2015
I have a 2012 CC TSI. Driving normally this morning cylinder 1 had a constant misfire that I cannot diagnose. I have swapped plugs and coils and still cylinder 1 is dead. Then I compression tested. Got around 150 PSI and it holds. And I got the same pressure on the other cylinders. So my question is: What else haven't I checked? What could be causing this constant misfire?
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I recenlty bought a 98 GMC sierra for a great price knowing it needed engine work. It has a constant misfire on cylinder one and it causes the whole truck to shake constantly no matter whether idle or acceleration or slowing down. At first I was thinking a burnt exhaust valve. I ran a compression check (the engine was cold though) and I heard a cold compression check means nothing. But in doing so I found that cylinder 1 has the highest compression out of all. I plan on another compression test tomorrow when engine is warm. But until then I was thinking maybe a bad injector on cylinder one? It is a "spider injection system" and I was wondering if it was possible for one injector to be clogged or not working and the rest be fine. I have seen where one will get hung up and cause hydrolock.
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Getting misfires on cylinder 1 and 5 in my 2001 Jetta GLX. Replaced coil pack. Installed a different/used cam position sensor.
Swapped injector 1 and 5 with 2 and 6. Cleaned MAF and throttle body and did adaptation. Checked resistance of plug wires and swapped plug positions.
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I had my car tuned over the weekend with apr stage 1. As soon as I went to start the car to leave I started getting a misfire on cylinder 4. We have tried swapping coils around and re-flashing the ecu with no luck.
Details on the car : 2010 GTI 6spd 21,000 miles
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Alright Ive had a misfire on cylinder 1 for far too long. I've replaced all ignition coils and plugs with oem parts. Also replaced fuel pump and filter with oem. As well as 2 injectors. Before I would misfire under load, now I misfire at idle..wiring looks good and not cracked from what I can see. Only codes I reciece are random multiple misfire, misfire cylinder 1. And diverter valve mis function because of my BOV. So what do I do now vortex?
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New to the VW world but I am not out of my element for I am a Porsche guy. So I feel right at home. Last night I picked up a 2001 wolfy Jetta with a 1.8t on the cheap with a misfire on cylinder 4.
I have verified I have no spark on 4. I have confirmed the issue is not the spark plug, coil pack by swap and see method. My coil pack and plug work fine on another cylinder. I reset my cels and here are the new ones that pop up:
a 121 - gas pedal position sensor- doubt this would give me a no spark
a 304- Misfire on 4, (duh, like I needed to hear that)
a 030- bank one 02 -Doubt this would also give me a no spark condition)
In my testing:
I have good system voltage on the coil pack
I have good ground ohms
My signal wire is not shorted high or low
When I take V and ohm readings on the coil pack connection, either with the ign on or off they are all in line with the other sensors. So I don't think I have a wire issue.
The PO had the ECU replaced at a local dealer. I looked at the old ECU and it appears it had got wet at one point.
Im wondering if the same thing hasn't happened to the new one. however after they replaced the ECU they gave him the car back still broken. So it never ran even with the new ECU.
1 Where is the ECU?
2 What tells the ECU to fire the coil packs at the right time?
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Bad coil pack after 8k. Was getting a misfire on cyl 1 under heavy throttle so I swapped the coil with cyl 4 and the misfire is on cyl 4 now.
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My 2010 gti has a p30030 misfire cylinder 3 only on cold starts. Swapped plugs and coil packs, still only on 3. Took a look inside every cylinder and found that there was some oil in the cylinder only cylinder 3. So much blow by that it kind of collected in the cylinder? Carbon cleaning needed?
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PO302 CODE . Lets hope that it's only cylinder 2 coil or spark plug !
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So I've been having some problems with my 2003 Volkswagen Golf lately (2.0 L gasoline engine, 98k miles). It started with an engine coolant thermostat code. This was repaired by replacing the thermostat and housing. Shortly after this fix I began to get a misfire, especially on rainy and humid days. Checking other forums I discovered that this was probably the result of a bad ignition coil.
The coil, spark plug wires and plugs were all replaced, but I am still getting a misfire. The idle is very rough so I've heard that it could be a bad fuel injector or faulty ground (though with the new components the other three cylinders sound cherry). The next step would be to purchase a "noid" test light and determine if the electronics to the injector are bad. I've also read that it could be a vacuum problem. There is a smell of unburned fuel when the engine is running.
How was it repaired? I'm quite good with the mechanical parts but lack the diagnostic tools, vacuum testers, multimeter and other such devices for performing complete screenings of the vehicle. Also, I can't drive it out to the local auto parts store to read the new error codes anymore. Finally I've got a "Chilton's" for the car but if there is a better manual available (better pictures, more descriptive instructions).
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Whats going on in VW land. I have a little problem. Last week I got gas and as soon as I left the gas station the engine light came on. I ran diagnostics, which show cylinder 3 misfire. Looking for the easy way out I replaced the spark plugs (cylinder 3 plug was trashed), this did not fix the problem and my baby is still running like crap. What it may be or the next step I have to take?
I am approaching the 100,000 mile mark and in the service portion of our manual it doesn't say anything about changing belts. It only says they run diagnostic and check the car out.
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Had car flashed a little under a month ago to stage one. Car has 33k on it. Only other mods are the stage one Carbino. Weather has been extremely cold (5-15 degrees). Noticed a few days ago in 4th gear at WOT car was sputtering, acting almost as if the clutch was slipping. Last night, thinking it was the clutch, tried a 4th gear pull up a hill from 2000 RPM, car damn near stalls.
Today, heading home car goes into limp mode and barely got it in the driveway. Very rough idle pulling both the EPC and CEL codes P0300, P0301, and P130A. Below is the file from VCDS. After some searching it appears this may be coil pack related, it's too cold to start switching them around at the moment, but I wanted some keener eyes to see the info I pulled. I am considering replacing the packs with the R8's and getting new NGK plugs just to see what happens.
Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels: 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 AM HW: 1K0 907 115 AA
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: AAH07--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A18070160
[Code] ......
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2000 Jetta GL 2.0 AEG. I am receiving the P0304 which I have identified as Cylinder misfire #4. I read on some previous posts that I cannot be the distributor because if it was I would be receiving misfires on two cylinders. The spark plugs are OEM NGK and have been replaced recently.
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I am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
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Alright so my car is popping up 4 codes.
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
Vehicle: 1999.5 VW Jetta MK4 2.0L GLS (AEG)
The P0411 code I have had for a while now and I been lacking to fix it. I pretty sure I can get this fixed but it doesn't cause problems so I haven't paid to much attention to it. Anyways, the other day I noticed a puddle of coolant under my car so after checking it out, the water pump was leaking so I bought a new one and replaced the old one. However, during the replacement process I had to remove the timing belt and I accidentally turned the top pulley about 1 notch and didn't notice at the time. After putting everything back on, I turned my car on and the engine sound a bit weak so I ran for about 10 minutes around a couple blocks.
I instantly noticed that the car had no power and it took me a long time to speed up. When I got back, I plugged in my scanner and I only had the same P0411 code and nothing else. After carefully reviewing the camera I had recording during the water pump replacement, I notice I had turned the top pulley a bit so I went ahead and removed the timing belt, readjusted it, and it worked! I was excited that the car was working fine again. Soon after, I headed out to take a drive and noticed after 60MPH the car didn't have much power. The car still accelerates after 60MPH, but extremely slow. As soon as I arrived back home, I plugged in my scanner and that is where I seen the 4 codes. Now my question is what could have caused this? Could I have damaged something when I ran my car with the incorrect timing?
Things I have done so far:
-I checked to see if I left anything unplugged.
-I checked for any vacuum leaks
-I checked my oxygen sensors so see if I was running rich/lean
Things I will do after work today:
-Check the spark plugs
-Check spark plug cable for damage
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I recently changed my spark plugs + coil packs in my 01 1.8T because it read a couple cylinder misfire codes. Drove it for a few days out of curiosity plugged the code reader in again and it's still reading misfire codes. What could the issue be still?
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Started happening recently where I can't bring her past 5k without misfiring on cyl 2 and throwing the p2181 code. I changed the coil just to be sure, but I do know my coolant sensor wires were a little snug from the TB being so close.
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My car has been sitting for almost 2 years now so I decided to start it once again after fixing warped turbo and manifold flanges. Immediately after starting it we noticed a misfire on cyl 3. checked plugs, coils injector harness and all looked good. Then we realized that I lost compression on the back 3 cylinders, I did a wet compression test and nothing changed (worst being cyl 3 at 80 psi), engine warm and cold tests. Then a friend and I did a leak down test and it seems like the intake valves are leaking and the rings are good.
Before I remove the head and have tons of work done to it I wanted to check a little further so I started tearing the short runner intake manifold out and valve cover. with the valve cover out, the springs and cams etc looks all in good shape. Then the intake runners were covered with a lot of oil which is weird because I dont have my crank case vent recirculated to the intake and my turbo seals are not leaking (no oil on the inter-cooler piping), and it is not just fuel in there.
Now if my valves are leaking air out the combustion chamber could they also be leaking from the valve stem guides? I didn't notice excessive oil being burnt through the exhaust which is normal when that happens on cold starts. So I am confused on where the oil is coming from or how it is being pushed to the intake runners on the head and manifold.
I have had a bit of blow by, normal on my case, because when the low compression pistons were installed the rings were gaped a little more to account for high heat at high boost pressure.
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Replaced my water pump March 2nd using the "From Below" method. Started the car after and the check engine light was on and water pump was no longer leaking. I drove the GTI to Advance (15 Mins away) it drove fine and I pulled two codes.
P0300 - Random Multiple/Cylinder Misfire
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
The car pulled and drove normally. The next day the car is misfiring badly. Hesitation and bucks when accelerating until roughly 3k then smooths out.
I will swap my coilpacks and check if the misfire moves as soon as I can get my hands on an OBD2 Scan Tool.
From what I understand about the VR6 :
-The water pump runs off the serpentine belt
-Camshaft timing is controlled by the timing chain.
-Timing chain is not affected by the serpentine belt/pulleys.
Questions :
-Can turning the Crankshaft Pulley affect timing?
-Can that be the cause of the misfire?
24V VR6
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Just dug out my 2004 2.0 Jetta after sitting buried for 4 months. You can see a corner of the wheel there lol, its been a LONG winter. It is my car but my brother normally drives it, and while he is away at uni it just sits.
Anyways, dug it out to start it. Started right up, however after a bit the MIL began flashing. It was running a little rough. Took out my code reader and engine misfire cylinder 4 came up. The rpms are varying by 75~100 every few seconds, however nothing rough. It seemed to rev fine.
Before I put it away I got my brother to put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel. He now tells me that he put some in the oil too since it said "oil stabilizer" as well. It was a seafoam type brand... Not impressed with him there.
My question is could this just be the car waking up? Should I let it run for an hour or two to see if things work out?
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