Title says it. Cat is done. Threw code p0420 and am experiencing hesitation at WOT. Already replaced my front o2 (cbfa) and now I'm debating whether or not to get a new downpipe. I daily the car and am wondering if keeping the car as is for a while will damage anything. Cts turbo has a sale for a catless downpipe.
View 5 RepliesDoes this mean the DPF is shot? I believe its integral with the cat. whats worth checking first?
View 2 RepliesI checked out a 2006 Prius yesterday a guy is selling. It had the CEL on (not sure why somebody would try and sell a car with that, but anyway). He said that it's because they get gas at a station that consistently doesn't tighten the gas cap enough but by the time the tank is down to 1-2 bars the light always goes away. Although I don't doubt his story, I absolutely doubted the cause. So I took it to get the code pulled and it was P0420, which is catalytic converter threshold below efficiency.
View 15 RepliesMy check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
My 2000 Nissan Maxima has a PO430 code for the catalytic converter that has been going on and off for over 1 year now. My ? is, how would I know that the converter needs replacing? Someone said there wouldn't be any smell necessarily, someone else said I would be leaking qts. of oil in between changes and someone else said it would get bad mileage. Each one debunks the others comments etc. Also just for info., this car had the ses light come on at 57K miles, my brother replaced 2 of the O2 sensors and I replaced 2 also, one duplicate one and a mass air flow as well.
View 1 Replies1996 4runner here (187,500miles), with weld in after market cat (on when purchased, with less than 1000 mile on it). started throwing the 420 code beginning of last summer. Replaced both O2 sensors and same results. Was coming on after every 30-40 miles after resetting, replaced wires, plugs, cleaned throttle body started coming on ever 120 miles or so. Now in the middle of winter it has gone 450 miles and still has not come back on?? Does the winter fuel blends in Georgia, or cold more dense air make a difference on cat performance? Still plan to replace it with a direct fit with a warranty but curious if I am overlooking something.
View 6 RepliesIt came on 2-3 miles after a cold start. 3.6 with 137,000 miles. What's next? First car I've owned that uses very little oil between oil changes.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Corolla, mileage app. 106,000. Check engine light first came on when driving to destination 40+ miles away (most of my driving is shorter, around-town trips). My mechanic said code is P0420 and so they reset it and said if it comes on again that I need a new cat converter. It did not come on until about 6 weeks later when I was on a longer trip again (had driven about 40-50 miles). Can you tell me if the P0420 code absolutely means that a new cat. conv. is needed or if it could possibly be a sensor or something else hopefully less costly than a new cc?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 90000 miles. Lat last year around Oct/Nov time frame, check engine light came on. I took my vehicle to a local Auto Zone store and they scanned the code and told me it was P0420 - bad catalytic converter.
I replaced the cat converter with an after market model, however after 3/4 months (after driving 2000 to 3000 miles), check engine light came on with the same code. The mechanic changed the cat converter and put a new (after market model). Again after 3/4 months (2000 to 3000 miles) check engine light came on again. And this time the mechanic replaced the cat converter and also oxygen sensor. Now after 4 months or so the check engine light is on the vehicle again.
The mechanic is now saying that the problem is not with the cat converter and he is saying there is a lot of abnormal deposit on the vehicle. When he scanned again he found another issue that read something like "high voltage" and this time the guy thought may be due to short circuit (per code) the fuel injector is sending high volume of fuel and this is causing excessive fuel to go into the cylinder and hence high volume of emission. I replaced the fuse box again and after another 100 miles or, the problem is reappearing.
That Car Grand AM 2000 2.4L SE
The current problem with the car is that it is not accelerating fast, for example i would push the petal to the metal and only go 25 mph and my RPM would be 3000-4000. Initial my brother and cousin though it was the Catalytic converter because it was getting hot but that has recently been change along with the fuel filter and spark plugs. but the catalytic converter is still gets red hot so i forbid myself from driving it till i fix what every causing the slow acceleration and the temperature of the Cata when i took the error code think P0300 random misfire to the local Autozone they printed me a long list of things that could be a issue my question is what is the likely culprit so i can fix those 1st before shelling out cash to rebuild a engine. may just have to get rid of it at that point. so i guess what am asking is a list maybe top 10 so i can fix them one by one as my money comes in.
Before the accelerating issue the car would randomly stop when i slowed down or stooped that when i replace the spark plugs.
2004 Chrysler Sebring Sedan, 4 cylinder dual-overhead cam. My check engine light came on this morning and the code came out as the catalytic converter. The car seems to be running fine, at least no recent changes. I'm debating replacing this vehicle soon, and I'm wondering if it's worth working on the catalytic converter. I recently replaced the cam shaft position sensor as well.
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
So the code reads "warm up catalytic converter efficiency below threshold (bank1)" ?? What it could be?
View 12 Replies2010 f150 with 5.4 catalytic converter. Engine light has been going on and off for the past couple of months. Had the code read and its says bank one catalytic converter. Ford dealer said to replace the 02 sensors. Had that done but light still comes on and off with same code. Could there be something wrong with the sensor or should I just have the CC replaced also. I just don't understand why it would come on for a few days and then not come on for a few days if its the CC?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
Took my car in for emissions and says catalytic converter is not ready.
What can I do to make this go to "ready"?
I've recently got my computer flashed with new programming.
Since it's been flashed, I've driven the car over 400 miles.
All of the cars self checks should be complete, I can't figure out why the catalytic converter won't go to ready!
Any thoughts or tricks to make it work?
The catalytic converter shield is tack welded on the front end but free on the rear end. There was originally some braided wire packing at the rear to keep the shield from rattling against the pipes. Mine was deteriorated and had been damaged, I think, when I sustained some oil pan damage last summer -- big jolt to the system when running over a muffler on the highway.
The fix is simple. Bought a foot of 3/16" braided stainless steel cable. I used about 8 inches and layed in the lower bead line on the catalytic converter shield (see picture below). You can see a bit of the cable thru the gap in the upper/lower shield on the left side. (1/4" cable would be a better fit, but this will work for a long time.) Cost: $1.84
The local VW parts man dug out an exploded drawing of the system but it showed NO parts or packing for this problem.
I have this rattle coming from underneath the car that's been going on for a while.
The car has 110k miles and the rattle is most prominent when I start the car or accelerate hard or just cruising downhill without gas.
I went to one of the well known shops in the area and they said it's coming from the cat and it needs to be replace and quoted me like $1300 for parts and labor which seemed quite steep to me.
They said it's coming from the inside the cat so it needs to be replaced.
Is this a common issue with our cars? I though maybe something is loose and can be just welded together or something.
105,000 miles on my R32, starting to get check engine light for catalytic converter. Any cheaper options to VW originals that won't harm performance?
View 1 RepliesMy exhaust on my 01 was rattling. It was coming from the catalytic converter, I assumed it was the heat shield. Put it up on the lift and lo and behold it was something in the cat that was rattling. I was popping a code for the cat anyways so figured I'd just swap it out. Fast forward to tonight. I get the car back up on the lift and I wiggle the cat but no rattling? I go farther back to the first muffler/resonator now it's rattling. It's not a hanger or a heat shield or metal to metal on the outside, there is obviously something of substantial mass inside of it I can almost feel where it is by wiggling around. I chose to wait and cut the exhaust up a different night because I plan on taking that section out as well now, hoping to get out whatever is rattling. If not I'll just have some spare pipe on hand to replace it.
View 6 RepliesCar is a 2001 MK4 Jetta with 2.0 Auto Tranny and 120k miles, stock exhaust
A little over a year ago I was getting a cel and the code that was being thrown was a DTC 16804. I changed the cat and both o2 sensors and the light went away for almost a year. The other day I was driving and the light came on again. Scanned the car and its the same 16804 code. I replaced the front o2 sensor thinking it was bank 1 but it didn't solve the problem. I clear the code and it comes back the next day. I'm finding it hard to believe that the cat is bad after only a year. I checked for vacuum leaks, faulty MAF and nothing under the hood looks out of whack. My mission is up next month and the car won't pass with this code.