Golf/GTI VI :: Clicking Noise On Cold Starts Coming From Fuel Door Area
Apr 15, 2010
So after I start my car in the morning (it's garaged in AZ, probably 60 degrees) about 1 minute after leaving the house there is a real odd noise in the back passenger side of the car. It almost sounds like it's coming from the fuel door area.
Click Click Click Click pause Click Click.
Click Click Click Click pause Click Click
Click Click Click Click pause Click Click
Happens for about 45 seconds, and then it's gone and doesn't happen again. It's not correlated to the engine speed or whether the car is moving or not.
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I think that one of them is coming from the passenger door. It is more of a clicking sound kind of, than a rattle. Maybe as if the door panel isn't tightly attached so it moves back and forth a little and clicks.
The other rattle is from the cupholder area.
I took this car to my dealer and they fixed another rattle from the passenger door (claimed it was a screw in the speaker that had fallen out?), but it was replaced by this new clicking rattle. They also claimed they did something to the cupholder to fix it, but it didn't work.
My question is, how the door panels are attached to the car? I was thinking that if it is attached by a few screws I will try tightening those up myself before I go back to the dealer. It would be great if it was just attached too loosely and I could fix it myself.
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I have been experiencing a crazy problem, my vehicle makes clicking noises from door area, this happens when car is moving or sitting. when i left my car parked for two days the car would not start. My mechanic thinks the door function is acting up and had a remote at one time on this vehicle, for which I don't have now. I just use key to open the door, he will remove door function and clicking should stop. and stop draining battery.
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2001.5 Passat 1.8t auto 98k.
It sounds as though I have a relay in the relay panel behind the headlight switch clicking on and off while I am driving. I searched the archives a bit and through my own reasoning, I figured it is not related to the hazard switch or turn signal stock ( I could be wrong though).
Description: It only clicks while I have my foot on the accelerator and the car is in motion, never other wise. It is not dependent on throttle location; it clicks the same way regardless of where the throttle is as long as it's being pressed. The clicking stops completely when the throttle is not being pressed.
Because of this, I am unable to locate the exact relay that is making the noise as it is impossible for me to open the door and look at the relay panel while driving. The clicking is some what erratic; It will click, pause for 2-4seconds click again then wait anywhere from 2 to 10 seconds and repeat. It's driving me nuts. Evap? Is this normal? Can it be stopped?
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I have a 2003 Prius and replaced one of the failing batteries in my HV battery pack in hope that would fix the car. It now will not start, with the battery installed, and I have a p3030 code being thrown. Also, after sitting for a night, the main display goes black and has 'waves' in it when it does show. When I turn the switch on there's a clicking noise coming from the area around the battery.
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I've noticed this sound coming from the instrument panel area for a while now. It comes and goes, sometimes starts in the middle of driving, sometimes starts right when I start the car. It almost sounds like I have the turn signal on, but that's not it. There isn't much to see - the video is mainly so you can hear the sound.
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I have a '98 Suburban 4WD, last week I started hearing a clicking noise when I go in reverse. Sounds like it is coming from the rear axle area. I don't hear the sound when going forward.
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I've got a 2008 santa fe limited 3.3 awd with about 170000 km on it. Lately when I brake I've been hearing a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the driver side front wheel area.
Had it in to my mechanic who checked the brakes and said that pads/calipers/rotors were all fine. They replaced the passenger side front bearing on the lower control arm a few weeks ago and said there is no play or noise coming from any other suspension components.
Where to look next? My mechanic isn't sure what it is so I was going to take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. Also had new tires installed about a month ago
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2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
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Just drove 60 miles and parked the car. loud whine coming from the fuel pump area. and the exhaust smells a hell of a lot different. Smells like fuel in the exhaust. Stage 3 kinetics kit. stock exhaust. Upgraded fuel system.
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Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
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I have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
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I just recently purchased an 02 golf 2.0 , it has 111k on it and seemed like a great deal at the point of purchase but I am finding more problems everyday... The battery dies overnight. but when i go to get in the car i can hear a rapid clicking coming from under the dash while the drivers door is open. it stops when I close the door. then after sitting in the car with the door closed for about a minute i see the gauges start ticking and winding up. I assume this is causing the drain? but what would cause the gauges to act this way??
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I did replace one of this days the rear main seal in my r32, and reinstall the clutch like i normally do, and right after i start the car I notice this horrible noise, scare the hell of me cuz i thought i did not had oil in the car for a moment, but i did never drain it, so I ran to get my stetoscope and the noise is coming from the clutch flywheel area, so i did remove everything apart and reinstall it, resurface the flywheel got another clutch and pressure plate, and nothing the noise is still there, do this noise sound familiar to u?
Timing chains? engine is new, and when I mean new I mean only 175 miles, got it from the dealer.. Main bearings? Clutch? only 100 miles got it new about 3 months ago. I already check all the pulleys and none make any kind of noise, [URL] ....
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There has been a noise coming from the serpentine belt area for some times now, and I thought when I get to work on the belt I will get it fixed.
Last night, I replaced the alternator with a brand new one from idpart with a clutch pulley (the original pulley was plastic). I also replaced the tensioner and serpentine belt with this kit from ECS: [URL] .....
Everything was put back tight and nicely. Turned on the engine: the noise is still there.
For sure there is one pulley on its way out, but with one?
Video here: [URL] .....
Noticeable @ 0:47
It's a 2.0 AVH Jetta.
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Just picked up my BMP R32 last week. The car is MINT, only 25k on her, seriously probably one of the cleanest, stock mkiv r32's left. I got every single service record since brand new, all done by a Volkswagen dealer.
Only problem is, a knocking noise has just started to develop, coming from the front passenger area somewhere. It is only noticeable when I brake or let off the gas after accelerating, but definitely more noticeable when braking. At first I thought it was something rolling around in the door, but now it seems clearly suspension related, or a loose bolt or something?
[URL]..........................................
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I'm having a real issue with wind noise coming from the A pillar area. I've been to the dealer twice and still have no resolution yet. When I went in today and showed them where the wind noise is coming from the tech. just stood there dumbfounded like he's never came across this problem before. Tried blaming it on wind noise around the mirror. I showed them how when you close the door on a dollar bill there is hardly and force needed to pull the bill out. They adjusted the door striker the first time which didn't work any. There are some major alignment issues with the door and the seal. It's so bad water leaked inside the car during a heavy rain.
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So, when I was leaving work I started my car up and heard what sounds like a low grinding noise coming from the area where the serpentine belt is. Let the car idle and it remained.
Put the car in gear and drove off and the sound was still there. the sound gets louder as I increase my speed. It went away a couple of times when I was braking, then came back.
I stopped at the gas station and could still hear it. After getting gas, fired the car back up and heard nothing. When I drove off, the sound returned.
I got home and put it in park, leaving the car on, opened the hood and could still hear the noise. Pressed and held the gas a few times and the sound did get louder.
I am pretty sure it is coming from some rotating part, but no clue what part. What this could be?
recap:
-get noise on startup
-while driving noise gets louder
-sometimes it stops when braking
-sound coming from area of serpentine belt
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Just had my 40k service done, and also got an alignment done at the same time. On my way back from the dealer I noticed a knocking noise coming from the lower rear area of the car which is more noticeable when going over bumps. Its intermittent. Thinking something got messed up when they were doing the alignment? What this might be?
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So I posted here a while ago with a question regarding my Golf and a strange whining noise it made on cold starts. I took it in to the dealer to find out what was going on (warranty) and they said it was the secondary air pump making the noise and that it was normal.
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This time it's about my tranny. After putting on 034 motorsport track density mounts, this whining noise started coming apparent and it's pretty loud and it's coming from the tranny area. Not sure of the fact that the mounts are so stiff has anything to do with it, but here goes...
It's like a slight grinding/mechanical whine noise that happens only when in gear and under load. It gets louder as the speed/rpm's get higher and happens in every gear. Funny, but sounds like a mechanical supercharger whine that you'd get from a supercharged car. When the car is idling, there is nothing wrong/no noise.
Clutch is not slipping, power feels just like it did before, my clutch pedal doesn't get stuck nor is it hard to push down.
A few initial diagnoses from friends were that there is some sort of shaft play in the tranny or that it may very well be a synchro.
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